Turntable needles

  • Thread starter Thread starter Muckelroy
  • Start date Start date
M

Muckelroy

Member
I may have an opportunity to acquire a German-made turntable. And for the life of me, I cannot remember the Manufacturer's name, I think it was Microtone Electronics. It definately started with an M. And the model number was E40 (or 40E. cannot remember for sure.)

Anywho, are turntable needles one-size-fits-all, or do I have to get a specific-sized needle for this turntable? I saw that the current one it has is a Shure needle, so that's at least a familiar name.....................

So what do I do?
 
So many types

Turntable needles are like micophones. There are more than one type and they have distinctive sounds.

Here is one source: http://www.edsaunders.com/

I have a vintage Shure V15-IV that I like very much. Bought it not long after it was first produced. I Had a v15-III before that.

You could buy just any cartridge but you should listen to a few first to find out what you like.

The better ones are more detailed, require less tracking force and don't jump out of the groove on dynamic passages (cannons on the telarc 1812).
 
FWIW, there are three major types of cartridges for audiophile turntables: Moving iron, moving magnet, and moving coil. All work by generating a (very tiny) voltage in coils by harnessing the "wiggle" in the actual needle caused by the undulations in the record's groove.

Moving iron moves a piece of metal (ferromagnetic metal, not aluminum or something like that) in a magnetic field. The coils, with magnet cores, are fixed in the cartridge body. The iron thing that moves is attached to the stylus (the "needle"). Examples include the Grado Silver and Gold, and my favorite of all cartridges, the Stanton 681 series (681ee to the 681eee MK III, the current one).

Moving magnet design moves the magnet around between the coils to produce the tiny voltage. Off the top of my head, I am not sure of examples. I think the Stanton 881s (out of production) is a moving magnet type. But the sound of these carts is very close, if not identical to the moving iron type. In these the magnet is attached to the stylus, and the coils are in the cartridge body.

Finally, and most expensively, there are the moving coil designs. In these the magnet is fixed in the cartridge body and the coils are attached to the stylus. These cartridges are the top of the line in quality, so say many audiophiles. Their output voltage is usually much lower than moving iron or magnet types, and they require a pre-preamp to bring their low signal levels up. Further, since the coils are attached to the stylus, you can't just buy a new stylus and pop it on when the old one wears out, like you can for moving iron and magnet designs. You either send the cartridge back to the manufacturer to have a new stylus put on, or throw it out and buy a new one. As you might figure from the fact that these are the ultimate cartridges, they are also very expensive, with some costing over $2500, well over. Quite a bit of change to throw out. On those where you can get the stylus replaced by the factory, expect to spend around $400 or so to get a new stylus. Compare this to $50 to $100 for a new stylus for a moving iron or magnet design. Examples of moving coil designs include the Stanton 981 (out of production), the wooden Grado line, and, I think, the Bang & Olufsen cartridges. All of these have very good high frequency output.

Make sure that you match the output level of your cartridge with your preamp's gain, and match their impedence too. www.kabusa.com has a nifty gain matching calculator and quite a bit of info about cartridges and vinyl too. Edit: you don't just screw the cart to the tonearm, you have to make sure that it is mounted exactly right. Search the web for info on this, and get the proper alignment protractor(s), stylus force gauge, and test record, so you can do it right. You will be protecting your vinyl and making sure that you get the best sound that way.

Do you guys remember the days when vinyl, tape, and FM stereo were all there was? Good God, was that a GREAT time for music or what?
 
Last edited:
OK, I GOT IT! It's an ELAC BENJAMIN MIRACORD, model 40H.

The school just let me take it home, so WHOO HOO!

It currently has a badly mangled SHURE M55E stylus on it. I found out that the stylus just slides right out of the cartridge, so would I just need to replace the stylus and..........go from there? How does the Shure M55E sound?

If I were to get a different cartridge, what type/brand should I get? I'm not sure if the M55E is a moving coil, or a moving magnet stylus..........but. yeah. I'd rather not spend more than like, 50 bucks.

ALSO------2 things. There's a counterweight on the opposite end of the arm. Where should the counterweight be for optimum performance? Will it even require adjusting?

ALSO, there's an adjustor on the side of the arm, a knob going from 0 to 6. WHat's that do?

thanks!
-callie-
 
Muckelroy said:
ALSO------2 things. There's a counterweight on the opposite end of the arm. Where should the counterweight be for optimum performance? Will it even require adjusting?

That counterweight adjusts how hard the needle pushes down against the record. The optimum setting is specified by the manufacturer.

MR said:
ALSO, there's an adjustor on the side of the arm, a knob going from 0 to 6. WHat's that do?

thanks!
-callie-

That's called anti-skating. The record pulls on the needle from the friction between them, and this pull is off to an angle. The anti-skating compensates for that pull.

Can you post some pics?
 
AIGHT, here's some pics:

Geocities SUCKS........so just, ignore the fact that it blows, and if you cannot load the pics, try again a few hours later, or something......

http://geocities.com/lockhart109/DSC01044.JPG

http://geocities.com/lockhart109/DSC01045.JPG

http://geocities.com/lockhart109/DSC01046.JPG

http://geocities.com/lockhart109/DSC01047.JPG

http://geocities.com/lockhart109/DSC01048.JPG

I would also like some advice on my stylus. Should I replace the Shure M55E needle, or get an entirely different cartridge altogether? (if so, which type?) thanks!!
-callie-
 
Radioshack for $20

It appears that this was a lower quality check V15. I think that you should read up a little and then just get a stylis for it and go from there.

One from : http://www.music1online.com/shurn55ereps.html

Or from radioshack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...&pg=2&origkw=shure&kw=shure&parentPage=search


A little googleing....

-----
http://www.stevehoffman.tv/forums/archive/index.php/t-24459.html
-----
'The M55E was introduced about the same time as the original V-15 (1964).
It was touted as having the same design (though different in appearance, it
had the same circuit design, compliance rating, elliptical stylus, etc.),
but built under "standard" quality control conditions rather than the
individual testing of the V-15.

High Fidelity reported on it in January 1966. They found that the curves
for frequency response and separation were nearly carbon copies of the
V-15, but with a slightly higher response peak above 10 Khz and slightly
less separation at extremely high frequencies. They concluded:

"Indeed, the sound of the M55E on playback is extremely clean,
well-balanced, well-articulated, and fuly agreeable. It stays with the
most thunderous crescendos and appears capable of presenting the full
signal engraved on a record--including much of the elusive air and space
that are characteristic of good stereo. If the "numbers" indicate a pickup
not quite in the same class as the V-15, judgements based on careful
listening put it very, very close behind." ' (thanks John!)
---------
 
VERY COOL ---- glad the previous owner of this record player didn't install JUNK on the cartridge. Glad to hear that this stylus is of reputable quality. In that case, I'll snag a replacement stylus, maybe dig up a user's manual somewhere, and go from there.

Thanks to all you guys

-callie-
 
OK, step 2

A replacement mint NOS M55E cartridge and stylus are on the way. (yay)

STEP 2 - I'm thinkin' I'll need a preamp with this turntable, judging from the looks of the innards of the beast.

Once again, it's an ELAC BENJAMIN MIRACORD 40H

I'm fairly certain that my reciever has a built-in phono preamp in its phono connection circuit. I know this, because the one time I hooked line-level signal in there, it distorted and overloaded like HELL, So, preamp is covered.

My receiver is a fairly archaic, but servicable RCA Dolby Pro-Logic model. Next to the tuner connection, there's a ground wire connector. First of all, I do not see a ground wire coming out from anywhere on the turntable, so maybe I don't need to ground the signal????

Thanks a bunches you pertiful peeps

-callie-
 
If your receiver has a phono input, then you have the preamp requirement covered. Not only will a phono input handle the low level signal of the cartridge properly (even moving iron and magnet cart output is well below the output of a tuner, tape deck, or cd player), but it will provide the necessary RIAA equalization curve too. It will work perfectly with the Shure cartridge.

The only time you would need anything more than the phono input on a receiver or preamp is if you have a moving coil cartridge with its very, very low output. Much lower than moving iron or magnet.

The ground connection is for connecting a ground wire between the turntable and the receiver. Vaguely recalling from back in the day (early 1970's) you use it if there is any hum without it. So just hook up your RCA plugs from the turntable, and if everything is quiet, then fine. If there is hum, try to find a ground point on the chassis of the turntable and run a thin (doesn't need to be heavy or anything) wire from there to the ground point on the receiver.

The very high gain of the phono input circuit will sometimes pick up and amplify hum, so that is why the provision for the ground. If I recall correctly.

BTW, an "archaic" receiver is very likely much better designed and made than any newer stuff. If it has a phono input, so much the better. Lots of receivers made today don't even have phono inputs.
 
And now for closure --

I just got done installing the new cartridge. It took me about an hour to figure out how to screw it in, with its awkward angle of the tonearm. Then, I accidentally pulled the end of the tonearm out, and viola! THat made it WAY EASIER to install and wire it up. Man, I kill myself sometimes.

Adjusted the counterweight and stuff, and got it to track nicely. Popped on my mom's "Meet the Beatles," and about had an eargasm. :D

k. Thank you guys!
-callie-
 
Back
Top