N
newboy_bie
New member
what is the best thickness for hard well finished plywood door, nut-n-shell for good insulation
knightfly
GrouchyOldFartOnBatteries
Not totally sure I understand the question, wording is throwing me - generally, the thicker the better. Plywood, though, isn't the best choice for sound proofing.
For standard house hardware, interior doors are usually 1- 3/8" and exterior doors are 1- 3/4" - you can put exterior hinges on an interior door, but it's hard to get the latch to line up and the frame doesn't really take advantage of the extra thickness because the door is positioned too far toward the hinge side of the door frame.
If you're putting a custom door into an interior frame, you can add mass layers to the side AWAY from the hinges, then put cleats around the door with some weatherstrip, add thin weatherstrip where the frame is rabbeted for the door, and get two seal layers going. The seal at the bottom is still a bitch unless you're willing to step over a seal at the bottom.
If I were custom laminating a door, I'd use an outer veneer layer on each side, over two layers of 3/4" particle board. That should end up close to 1-3/4", so you could use exterior hinges - then, once the door is in place you could add another dense layer, such as either particle board or sheet rock with veneer over, and do the cleat/weatherstrip thing.
If possible, don't even use a knob if you can find a magnetic seal - this avoids the thru-hole a knob requires, and will help keep more sound in/out... Steve
For standard house hardware, interior doors are usually 1- 3/8" and exterior doors are 1- 3/4" - you can put exterior hinges on an interior door, but it's hard to get the latch to line up and the frame doesn't really take advantage of the extra thickness because the door is positioned too far toward the hinge side of the door frame.
If you're putting a custom door into an interior frame, you can add mass layers to the side AWAY from the hinges, then put cleats around the door with some weatherstrip, add thin weatherstrip where the frame is rabbeted for the door, and get two seal layers going. The seal at the bottom is still a bitch unless you're willing to step over a seal at the bottom.
If I were custom laminating a door, I'd use an outer veneer layer on each side, over two layers of 3/4" particle board. That should end up close to 1-3/4", so you could use exterior hinges - then, once the door is in place you could add another dense layer, such as either particle board or sheet rock with veneer over, and do the cleat/weatherstrip thing.
If possible, don't even use a knob if you can find a magnetic seal - this avoids the thru-hole a knob requires, and will help keep more sound in/out... Steve
Michael Jones
New member
Speaking of doors:
I just ordered my front, exterior door today.
Here's a pic:
Mine is the Pre-Hung Double in Oak. It's solid wood, but I think its an inch and a half thick.
Its gonna take 2 weeks for delivery.
We'll see how thick it is when it comes in.
I just ordered my front, exterior door today.
Here's a pic:
Mine is the Pre-Hung Double in Oak. It's solid wood, but I think its an inch and a half thick.
Its gonna take 2 weeks for delivery.
We'll see how thick it is when it comes in.
N
newboy_bie
New member
thanks
well i am planning to go with a hard Flush door 1-1/2" , what i have initially thought to cover one face of it with cloth and exposed insulation as i have some more reflective surfaces and walls in my room (drywall and cement floor).
well i am planning to go with a hard Flush door 1-1/2" , what i have initially thought to cover one face of it with cloth and exposed insulation as i have some more reflective surfaces and walls in my room (drywall and cement floor).
knightfly
GrouchyOldFartOnBatteries
Holy cow, Michael - sooo, what you're telling us is than nobody here will be able to afford you once you're in the new digs?
:=)
:=)