tascam 32 - wha?

  • Thread starter Thread starter FALKEN
  • Start date Start date
FALKEN

FALKEN

*************************
ok...

so I finished my mixdowns for my latest project and I am going to send the master tapes off to the ME. quick question.....WHA???

Why does my 32 leave an electrical "pop" from every point that I had hit "record" ??? How is this possible??? wha?????

Am I supposed to now splice all of those pops out of the tape?? you've goddabekiddingme.
 
When I was testing out my otari, everytime I hit record, or even stop, I got that too.......
 
pop noise from straight record?

I've always dealt with this problem by hitting record and then switching the track to "ready". Isn't that how people do punches?
 
that might be the solution....

I've never needed to do a punch on the 32.
 
thanks, but this didn't work.

I wonder if replacing some caps or something would do it.
 
The 32 has a pause control, yes?

Put the machine in record pause mode and spot erase the pops by rocking the reels by hand over the spot.

That trick also works to clean up noisy heads of tracks where you might be hearing the errant din of a guitar amp or open room Mic on a vocal track and you forgot to gate the track initially.

Cheers! :)
 
Thanks, Ghost.

I am still waiting for tascam parts to get the *correct* sensor out to me; and for my parts machine I bought off of ebay. I think the parts machine will get here tomorrow so I should be back up and running tomorrow night. While I have this work of art on the bench I was just wondering....are you sure this isn't a capacitor problem? This is just how it was designed? :confused:
 
....are you sure this isn't a capacitor problem? This is just how it was designed?
Click to expand...
No, I'm not sure in that I haven't heard how bad the click/pop sound is?

I have a 38, which is from the same series and I know on that one there is a very mild click sound that can be audible if you're really listening for it and not very noticeable in a busier mix.

How bad would you characterize the noise on your machine?

Cheers! :)
 
bad enough that I am almost embarassed to send it to the ME this way, even if it is only between songs. I am afraid it might "pop" his speakers.
 
razor blade, 1/4" splicing block, grease pencil, 1/4" leader tape (preferably paper)....and a backup copy....preferably not a generation down.

how come you just don't splice it out? I'd do that on the heads always when I sent tapes off. Leave the tails for fades...whatever.

Infact, I'd think it common protocal to do such. Anyway, either rock the hubs as Ghost suggested, or get out the knife!!! :)
 
thanks...

It might be common practice but I could make a mixdown tape with no need to splice anything if it weren't for this one issue. I still can't believe it was put on the market this way.
 
not trying to convince you, ...but...

I almost always put leader tape on my final mixes. ..for several reasons.

1. kill the tape hiss before the music starts
2. you can find the beginning on a reel containing more than one song
3. allows for whatever spacing you might want to experiment with between songs
4. easier to rearrange songs in any order to experiment.
5. #3 and #4 even more useful when you get to the final stages of a complete album (or nowadays, I guess a CD :D )
6. avoid print thru on quiet intros if stacked on a reel.
7. looks more pro :cool:
8. paper leader tape always scraped the oxide off my heads :eek:
9. teaches you not to be afraid of editing. Intros are by FAR the easiest to edit.
10. tape on the floor makes you look serious.. you can say your best take is in the wastecan!!
 
FALKEN said:
bad enough that I am almost embarassed to send it to the ME this way, even if it is only between songs. I am afraid it might "pop" his speakers.
Click to expand...
I had to specifically for this get a reel with some tracks recorded on 32 and listen what kind of "pops" do I have there before/between tracks. I only can hear it with headphones on, actually paying close attention. Yep, I have a miserably low volume pops there... so low, that VUs have no reaction at all, by its character the pop is somewhat soft and low-endish, rather pillow-sound and nothing like guitar-pick-click or firecracker. I never cared about this "problem". This kind of lil' thing on tape should never be a problem nor surprise for any mastering engineer or who ever.
If you get some terrible click/pop/boom ... then there's something wrong... that is NOT normal for the machine.
The way I 'start recording' is (without much thinking :p about it) - roll the tape to the desired point, press pause+record, press 'function' L/R, input select=Line, output select=input, play portion of the to-be-recorded material, set rec. level, set output level (for monitoring), set the to-be-recorded-material to the begining of the track/program, output select=(switch to) REPRO, press PLAY on the recorder, wait for few seconds, start-play the to-be-recorded material.

what else? ... ahhh... watch the reel spining or something

/respects
 
The Ghost of FM said:
The 32 has a pause control, yes?

Put the machine in record pause mode and spot erase the pops by rocking the reels by hand over the spot.

That trick also works to clean up noisy heads of tracks where you might be hearing the errant din of a guitar amp or open room Mic on a vocal track and you forgot to gate the track initially.

Cheers! :)
Click to expand...

have you done this on a 32 before?? I must be doing something wrong...this isn't working.....
 
FALKEN said:
I must be doing something wrong...
Click to expand...

a HA! the CUE. it works. sweet.

if I want to cut out some of the dead space between songs, is it necessary to have a splicing block? I have some splicing tape but it seems I forgot I needed a block....
 
FALKEN said:
ok...

so I finished my mixdowns for my latest project and I am going to send the master tapes off to the ME. quick question.....WHA???

Why does my 32 leave an electrical "pop" from every point that I had hit "record" ??? How is this possible??? wha?????

Am I supposed to now splice all of those pops out of the tape?? you've goddabekiddingme.
Click to expand...

It is from the bias circuit. It usually means that some electrolytyc caps have dried up. I had to replace some electros in my Fostex E-16 lately and all is well again.

Electrolytic caps drying out means pops, intermittant transport problems and funny "whoop whoop" feedback noises when recording/playing back.

The Fostex E-16s use 2 electros for timing the transport logic and I had stuff like hitting "play" and reels not moving, rewind dissapearing etc.
I don't know if the TASCAM machines have this design, but it is probably micro-processor controlled and electro-caps are used for timing control logic (usually)

A quick puruse through the repair manual, a few hour with a soldering iron, O-scope confimed my suspicians.

Now, when I get the time, I will re-cap the whole machine as well as my other B-16D. My MCI JH24 is almost done (2 months!), but it runs perfect and sounds even better than ever.

Not saying this is your problem now, but it sure will be for every machine that is over 16 years old. Electrolytic caps are only rated to last 10-16 years by virtually every manufacturer I have seen.

So, it is in you best interest to get ahold of a repair manual for all machines you waht to keep because these manuals are becoming very hard to find.
 
FALKEN said:
a HA! the CUE. it works. sweet.

if I want to cut out some of the dead space between songs, is it necessary to have a splicing block? I have some splicing tape but it seems I forgot I needed a block....
Click to expand...

I don't think you need a block. It's conveniant to have because it holds it in place but all you really need is a straight line and a steady hand.
 
funny thing, I can't get rid of the pops completely...but I can make them a LOT less noticeable. there is still a little something from when I hit "stop" while it is in pause-record mode, even if I have lowered the tape away from the heads with the lifters. The "stop" or "play" buttons seem to be bringing a huge amount of voltage to the record head...enough to skip through the air.
 
FALKEN said:
funny thing, I can't get rid of the pops completely...but I can make them a LOT less noticeable. there is still a little something from when I hit "stop" while it is in pause-record mode, even if I have lowered the tape away from the heads with the lifters. The "stop" or "play" buttons seem to be bringing a huge amount of voltage to the record head...enough to skip through the air.
Click to expand...

If you are having pops and noises from hitting transport functions, then it is very likely that you have dirty ground/signal connections somewher ( I had the same kinda problems with my big deck). It is not skipping through air but rather being fed back through the ground of the head amplifiers. Once again, dried up electrolytic bypass (filter) caps can cause this.

The best advice I can give (from experience) is to get some stuff called "Deox-It" in the spray can and pull each cable from it's connector (one-by-one). Spray the female connectors and use cotton Q-tips to clean any make connectors (if any). Do all connections including PC board fingers. This stuff is incredible in how well it works. You will have to either order it off the web or go to a good electronics store.

It is:
"DeoxIT D5 Contact cleaner and rejuvenator for all electrical connections"
Part# D5S-6.

I used this on my machines, did every single connection and it fixed every problem I had (that was not a dried up cap). Awesome stuff for sure.

Good Luck and I hope you solve your problem.
 
My 32 doesn't pop at all. I decided to give it a good listen after reading this.

I have a question though.

When you have it mastered will it end up on CD?

If so, I'm wondering why send the tape instead of putting it on a CD and sending the CD.

At least that way, as I see it, you can edit problem areas out, and you don't have to worry about any bias, speed, or alignment anomalies between machines.

Just wondering.?.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top