Tascam 244 / 246 idler assembly (use of oil / lubricant)

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cjacek

cjacek

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This is a question for those who can help and a continuation from previous related threads:
https://homerecording.com/bbs/showthread.php?p=3206791
https://homerecording.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=289525

Guys .. Mike, Tim, Cory, Ethan..... I'm currently in the process of mounting the entire original idler wheel assembly, that I got from Tascam, onto the 244. The part is basically the entire plastic wheel with rubber on it. See THIS for details.

The metal pole, on which the idlers spin is lubricated by some type of chemical. Not sure what it is. My question.. Is it OK for me to use THIS to re-lubricate, when replacing the wheels? It contains Silicone and says "Finest quality instrument oil for use on rubber, plastics and metals. Use on fine parts mechanisms, i.e. clocks, watches, miniature moving parts, etc."

I think it'd be fine to use for my purpose and I doubt it'll damage anything but I wish to check with you guys first. What say you?:confused:

Thanks!

~Daniel:)
 
Daniel, I'll definitely be interested to see how others weight in, and I don't think there would be anything wrong with using that Caig lubricant (I'm totally confident that it is a good safe product to use), but I'd be putting a little dab of grease on the idler shaft unless you can't get to it...not sure if that idler slips off the shaft.

The reason I'm thinking this is that the oil will not stay put so well, while the grease will cling for the long haul and will aslo serve to keep and foreign dirt out of the mating surface between the idler and the shaft.

My 2p and I think I'd feel more confident in the recommendation if I had my hands on it...tactile decision-making.
 
MAN what service Mike has done with those resources!

Daniel I am pretty confident that what Tascam put in there was a general purpose mineral or axle grease. You can probably find it in a small tube at an auto-parts store. You can get a synthetic type if you want but this is a relatively low-pressure low-RPM application and mineral grease will do very well. Plus, mineral grease is used in all sorts of applications with rubber boots and plastic retainers and such. I'm confident that it would be safe and very appropriate for this.
 
OK, thanks Cory. I'll try an auto parts store and also search if there's anything available online. :)
 
Daniel, I agree with Cory. It's not a high RPM/stress application.

I cant recall ever seeing one of these reel idlers with a worn nylon idler due to wear/lack of lubrication, but I saw plenty with felt clutch problems such as too much torque/not enough torque.
Good too to use a torque gauge cassette and measure the take up torque in play/record before you put it all back together again.

Make sure the little black plastic retaining washer is in good condition when you put it back on, or use a new one. Sometimes I apply a tiny bit of glue such as contact cement to the washer and shaft to stop any chance of the washer starting to rotate with the idler, which would eventually wear the washer out and it would ping off.

Cheers Tim
 
Red Loctite also works good for the "glue" which would also be available at an auto parts store.
 
cjacek said:
Guys .. Mike, Tim, Cory, Ethan..... I'm currently in the process of mounting the entire original idler wheel assembly, that I got from Tascam, onto the 244. The part is basically the entire plastic wheel with rubber on it. See THIS for details.

The metal pole, on which the idlers spin is lubricated by some type of chemical. Not sure what it is. My question.. Is it OK for me to use THIS to re-lubricate, when replacing the wheels? It contains Silicone and says "Finest quality instrument oil for use on rubber, plastics and metals. Use on fine parts mechanisms, i.e. clocks, watches, miniature moving parts, etc."

Thanks!

~Daniel:)
Click to expand...

Yes, that's good stuff... but remove all of the old lube that you can because some don't mix well, and thus will reduce the effectiveness of the lubricant. And of course be extra careful not to get any on the idler tires for obvious reasons. :)
 
Thank you all very much!:)

.... also and this is just thinking out loud, is there any justification for just leaving it alone, the re-lubing idea? Tim, when you replaced the idlers, on your 246, did you just slip them on or did you bother at all with re-lubing? :confused:
 
I would lube it, lightly. And Tim's point is another + for grease IMO because it is more tolerant of mixing if there are traces of other stuff...knowing you you'll have it spotless but its peace of mind.
 
Cory, do you by any chance know of a specific grease product, by brand name, which would fit the bill, which is perhaps available online? I just don't wanna screw up or rely on some sales guy and get the wrong thing. :o
 
cjacek said:
Thank you all very much!:)

.... also and this is just thinking out loud, is there any justification for just leaving it alone, the re-lubing idea? Tim, when you replaced the idlers, on your 246, did you just slip them on or did you bother at all with re-lubing? :confused:
Click to expand...


I removed every trace of the old lubricant and used white grease that I've had around for years. I don't think you can go wrong as long as you use something that doesn't harm plastic or nylon, and is made to more or less stay in place.

This isn't a high speed rotation at all, so the friction won't even heat things up. It's not a critical area for wear, but a little lube is a good idea.

IMO, the DeoxIT X10S will work just fine.

The grease I used was made for Radio Shack years ago, but they don't carry it anymore. I may be able to find out who made it and if there is something similar around. It's good stuff... hope I don't run out.

:)
 
Tim, thanks very much for the info.

...and, incidentally, I went to a local auto parts store and all they had was large tubs of axle grease and some other Lithium based product... It was too much and too expensive.

Getting the right product is one thing but then getting the one which indeed won't harm the plastic / nylon is another.

I may experiment with the X10S after-all, as I actually have it, it seems safe to use and it's not overly runny - it's actually between runny and grease so it should stay in place. After cleaning out the old lubricant, I'll just use a little of the X10S, noting the above info that it's not a high torque / critical situation. I also have a feeling that getting the grease version might prove a bit too challenging. Yup, getting lazy here. :D

:)
 
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Tim Gillett said:
Good too to use a torque gauge cassette and measure the take up torque in play/record before you put it all back together again.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice but that's getting into a whole different area of servicing, that I doubt I'd get into but still, thanks. :)

Make sure the little black plastic retaining washer is in good condition when you put it back on, or use a new one. Sometimes I apply a tiny bit of glue such as contact cement to the washer and shaft to stop any chance of the washer starting to rotate with the idler, which would eventually wear the washer out and it would ping off.
Click to expand...

Good call Tim.. I was fortunate that TEAC gave me a few of those slit washers to replace the old ones, which seem in good shape still.

Thanks again for the advice.
 
Daniel, I think Tim's point is key here in that it is not a critical application. I'm just suggesting grease because it has some cling to it.

To my nose and eyes the stuff in these kinds of spots in other Teac gear I have is just general purpose wheel bearing grease. You could just go to your local Wal Mart and get wheel bearing grease. That's what I did and use for those types of joints. The DeoxIT lubricant is likely something more like turbine oil which is good stuff and the required flavor of lubricant for things like fixed broze oilite bushings in motors and such. Again, would be fine here but I like using something that sticks to the parts and creates a seal and stays put.
 
Cory, I completely understand your reasoning behind the grease option. Believe me, I'd do it if I could get some reasonably easily, one which would also be safe to use on those components. Yup, the "cling" part is also my concern. Please don't think that I've dismissed your recommendation.
 
OH DANIEL!

I'm sorry...My mistake. You already HAVE the X10S...by all means use that. I thought you had to order some...and viscosity in between oil and grease well that's the stuff. Go for it. 'nuf said.
 
Don't concern yourself Cory. Not a problem. I should have communicated better that I already had the X10S. Again, don't worry. :)
 
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