Yes, This is a condition that the mechanism controller is in error mode and the most likely cause is the dried up grease they used has caused the old Gear C to break teeth or crack. This is a very common issue and one I have resolved many time. Do not just put a new gear in as the real cause is the grease they used is hardened up to where the small motor can not move the parts- even when you try and rotate the cam by finger it will not move. Take the gear assembly apart and cleab all grease out and pivot rods with denatured alcohol. Acetone works even faster. I put Lubriplate 105 in the mechanism and then I also do the front of the deck too which requires the cassette holder come off and the back plate. The grease is all removed 100% and Lubriplate 105 applied there then when you feel the difference at the cam gear with the different lubrication you will know why the gear broke. I sell the Gear C myself which are Resin Cast but there are also people selling them cheaper on E bay that are die cast. I have one here but I am not so sure they work long term as I have not had time to test it. The feed back plate must be cleaned and a light film of Lubriplate put on that as well.
Yes the wheel is broken may I somehow buy a replacement from you
or do you know of someone in the uk that can supply
I notice on ebay you can get them from China but I don’t know the
There are people on E bay selling molded gears for cheaper. Mine are resin cast the same way they made the original only with a better resin. They are $30 each and the shipping of one I just sent to the UK was $18.45 the lowest price. There are people also 3D printing gears- I never used those kinds in my repairs so I don't know how they hold up. The idea is to clean and lubricate the mechanism properly. That might only be done here but it is required for anyone. Just a gear is not the right solution as the mechanism is all gummed up with old dried grease. In the obove picture it shows the feedback PCB at upper right- that is Lubriplate 105 grease on that plate and it does work. The old grease is so stiff it will lift the contacts off the pattern on the PCB and contact will not be made then the mech controller does not know where it is and goes into error mode. I am now working with a guy in NC that is trying to print the Gear C by 3 D printing. I have to get some to test them before I will say they work. Why is anyone buying my gear if the die cast ones work fine? I keep on getting orders and these should stop if the other gears did work.
This continues to be a very common problem with these decks as I worked on two in the last two days. The Gear C which is made up of no different material than the others seems to get more discolored and becomes more fragile maybe due to mechanical stress. I had one the other day that not only came off the shaft broken but continued to break down in a lot of pieces almost as if it were turning to powder. This unit had a black like shaft so I don't know what it might have been lubricated with- people will use greases that have names like super silicon synthetic mighty grease but do they know what is in it and what effect it will have on metal parts such as the shaft. It took a lot of time for me to clean off the black residue off the shaft but after that the new Gear C worked well. In my shop when I see the mechanism is turning hard not only do the gears need cleaning but also the front slide plate that the heads sit on and that under that plate- it all comes off and gets cleaned and Lubriplate 105 which I have never seen solidify. I also see some Pinch roller come in that look like they have no been cleaned in 40 years. Do people think this kind of maintenance is going to make their deck work better? It causes greater phase error and also may become sticky and will eat the tape.