Suggestions for set up work on Martin

  • Thread starter Thread starter Chili
  • Start date Start date
Chili

Chili

Site Moderator
I bought a new Martin this last winter and it needs to be set up. The strings are pretty high off the fretboard, even after I sanded down the bridge. So, I'll be taking it to a shop soon. Is there anything else I should have done while it's there?? What does a set up include?? (So I don't sound like an idiot when I'm talking to the luthier!!! :o )

I've heard that changing pins and bridge material alters the sound. I like the way it sounds now, but wouldn't mind a brighter top end. What works? What doesn't? Anyone have experience with doing this? Was it worth the money to you?

Thanks!!!
 
THE SHOP THAT SOLD YOU THE GUITAR, NEW, DIDN'T OR WON'T DO A PROPER SETUP??? You got taken, bud. Several years ago, when I bought my Martin D16-SPD from Maple Street Guitar in Atlanta, they not only had already done a very good set up, they also insisted that they would tweek it again just before I picked it up, and that if I had any playing issues with it, either due to the guitar's setup OR my playing style, I could bring it back for a THIRD setup.

And their prices were VERY competative, too.

Bring it back, and talk to the shop where you bought it. If they won't work with you, ou bought from the wrong shop.
 
Do yourself a favor and don't sand on the bridge anymore.

Yeah, the shop you bought it from should have done a setup to your taste.

As long as you have it in the shop I would replace the nut and saddle with parts made from bone or ivory. Then have them do the setup you want with the action lowered a bit from where it is now.
 
I'm ashamed to say I bought it at GC. Lust fever, I guess. I asked the guy if they were going to set it up and he said, It already is. :( He had such a condescending attitude, little fuck. Wanted to just kick his arrogant smile in right there. (It's the North Austin GC, btw)

Anyways, I pretty much figured I don't want GC working on the guitar and would take it someplace else.

By saying Bridge, I mean the little plastic part. I took off a bit, but didn't want to go any further without really knowing what I was doing. Angle of the strings across the bridge and such... I'm sure there's something to it. The strings are still high, I think I've got a good 1/4" more I want them to come down at the 12th fret.

Thanks for the thoughts.
 
If the strings need to come down 1/4" you need to have the neck adjusted and possibly reset.
 
I would complain to both the GC manager, and to Martin- tell Martin that GC is NOT providing the service consurmate with the Martin name.

I would tell the GC manager about the condencending attitude of the person who sold you the guitar- you do not need to remember who it was, it will be in their computer records, ask the GC manager to check and you can confirm that is is (or is not) that person who sold you the guitar. Complain, complain, complain.

If the GC manager offers to do a setup, in-house, tell him you have little confidence in his guitar tech, given the poor setup the guitar apparently received there, and that you would like a qualified, Martin-certified lutier to do the setup, and GC pick up the bill.

I can understand your Martin buying experience was different than mine- I looked, and looked, and LOOKED, at that guitar before I finally bought it, plus I bought at a locally-owned, mid-to-high end guitar shop. Still, I paid LESS than I would have at GC. Please, consider this before you buy again.

That part you sanded down is called the saddle.
 
This is a new guitar? If the action is that high, I'm assuming this is a lower end Martin (lower than a style 18), with the A frame bracing and the bolt on neck - sorry, "mortise and tenon" neck (heh, yeah right!). I'm betting that your guitar got dry over the winter, causing the neck block to shrink, which causes the glue and bolt to come loose. I've seen a LOT of those guitars where the necks were pulling out of the block. (You can check for this pretty easily - is there a gap between the heal of the neck and the body? I'm betting there is.) Assuming you haven't done anything stupid while "sanding the bridge" (I hope you mean the saddle!) this should be covered under the warranty. Get your guitar to a Martin warranty center.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Take it to a Martin dealer and talk to the. Understand what they say and don't be afraid to tell them you may not be familiar with the terms they might us. If you have any concerns after that report back here for further dissection.

If you do have an action that can come down 6mm then your action is about twice what it should be. As light says that could very likely be down to a problem with the neck body join. That would be covered if you are the original owner. Other than that a decent luthier will get the neck straight and the action down to playable level. Consider getting a decent saddle fitted, I am often astounded at the poor quality of Martin saddles considering the reputation and price of their instruments. My preference is for bone.

Good luck and keep us informed if you have any specific questions.
 
muttley600 said:
Consider getting a decent saddle fitted, I am often astounded at the poor quality of Martin saddles considering the reputation and price of their instruments. My preference is for bone.
Click to expand...

There new ones aren't bad. The last couple of years they have been selling me pre-shaped bone saddles for warranty repairs that are pretty good, actually. Not as good as I would make myself, but not bad.

Oh yeah, and to the OP - don't bother with changing the bridge pins, it won't change the sound at all. Or at least, not in any way you will notice. If you don't like your guitar, get a new guitar. A bone saddle MIGHT make a bit of difference, but it's still not one you are likely to notice.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Hey Everyone, thanks. I do mean saddle; the little plastic part (Tusq, as the catalog says)

Currently, the high-E string (musical high - lowest physically) is 4.5 - 5mm high at the 12th fret. This was after much sanding to bring it down to that. I would ideally like it at 2.5mm or 3mm. Is this asking too much??

I don't see any gaps or separation between the neck and body, inside or out.

It's the DCX1E model. For you purists out there: yup, it's the HPL crap. But I love the sound and it was a good price, so cut me some slack!!! :D

I'll take it to a shop this week. I heard this is the go-to guy in town:
http://www.erlewineguitars.com/pgs/repair.htm

Thanks again.
 
Nothing to contribute to the actual topic, but a Martin-related story: Went in to the local shop yesterday with a friend hoping to trade in a Martin D-18 his uncle and given him a while back. The thing had always been ugly to play so he wasn't really interested in keeping it any longer. Well the shop owner gave it a once-over and said, "Welp, that's a fake!" Ha. This guitar had the martin emblem on the headstock, so it was reasonable to assume it was a martin. But the guy went on point out what made it a fake. Needless to say, my friend walked out with the same guitar he walked in with.
 
Tell your friend to bring it to a pawn shop, and pretend to need money REAL BAD. Those guys are such bottom-feeders, they will snap it up in NO time- then price it so high NOBODY will ever buy it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top