Studio Projects B1, B3 or the Rode NT1-A

  • Thread starter Thread starter Decay
  • Start date Start date
D

Decay

New member
I'm in the process of buying a condenser mic - mainly for recording vocal performances. I'm in the opportunity of getting good prices on the Rode NT1-A, the Studio Projects B1 and the Studio Projects B3 for approximately the same price.

I guess my voice is a little dark, maybe a little deep. I'm gonna have to record some screams and growls as well as more traditional singing.

Which one would you choose between these three mics? Anyone have experience with either of these mics, or would you suggest another mic?

Unfortunately, I do not have the opportunity to try any of the mics before I buy.
 
Behringer B1 I recommend. Then again I've never used any of those mics. But I've used more expensive ones and I really like this behringer piece.
 
The B1 and B3 are a more neutral sounding mic. The Rode is a more bright mic. Given your description of your voice as being dark, I would suggest the Rode mic.
I have and use the B-3 all the time, I dont think it would be my first choice for a dark vocal.

Tom
 
I'll second the RODE for a dark voice. I have an older NT1 as my main vocal mic and it works well for me (I'm a baritone). The RODE can be harsh on higher register voices.
 
All of those you mention are fine mics. Especially for the money. But some feel each is a bit bright. If it was me I'd narrow it down to either the Studio Projects B1 or the NT1a, and probably then get the NT1a.

The NT1a retails much higher than the SP-B1, so at the same price, the NT1a is a better deal. And while the B1 is a quiet mic, the Rode is one of the quietest you'll get at any price.
 
Thanks for sharing the knowledge. I'm currently leaning towards the NT1-A.

But keep in mind that when I said that my voice is a little deep, I didn't mean very deep.
I mean, I can go deep, but I normally sing in a register comparable to, say, Jim Morrison of The Doors at times.
The Rode still seems like a good choice?
 
I have the SP B3 - I didn't have any LDC omni's and I try to get as many various mics I can, at this stage, it's selectable omni, figure 8 and Cardiod.

I got that and it was my first over $100 mic, then I got a tube mic MXL960 and it was dark in comparison. I like them both, of course, but I find it really useful to have a brighter LDC and selectable omni.

I also have some others, just about one cheap mic from all categories, SDL directionals, omni, LDC directional and omni, a tube, and sm57/58 dynamics.
 
I'm not joining in this thread until someone actually types Røde's name properly. Go and learn some ASCII!! ;)
 
noisedude said:
I'm not joining in this thread until someone actually types Røde's name properly. Go and learn some ASCII!! ;)

Nerd alert! :p
 
I've got a RØDE NT3 and I like it so much that the next mics I buy will be RØDEs, too.
 
billisa said:
The NT1a retails much higher than the SP-B1, so at the same price, the NT1a is a better deal. And while the B1 is a quiet mic, the Rode is one of the quietest you'll get at any price.

Hey Billisa,

For the record, the NT1a retails at $349.00, the B1 at $119.00, the NT1A sells for $199.00, the B1 sells for $99.00, so they are not really the same price, nor the same mic. I think if you compare the C1 against the NT1A, then you can say they sell for the same price, and they are very similar to each other.

I would love to comment more on this "retail issue" as I think some manufacturers and dealers are simply trying to fool buyers into thinking they are getting a better deal than they actually are based on inflated retail prices, however if I discuss this here, it may upset a couple of people on these boards....... :)
 
apl said:
I've got a RØDE NT3 and I like it so much that the next mics I buy will be RØDEs, too.
Ok, I'll take part now.

The only Røde I've used is the NT2 so ........ I don't really know. :eek::D
 
By the way, it's ALT plus 0 2 4 8 for anyone wondering how to get an 'ø' into their 'Rode'.
 
noisedude said:
By the way, it's ALT plus 0 2 4 8 for anyone wondering how to get an 'ø' into their 'Rode'.

Noise,

What about that e thing for Spain and Germany, you know with the two dots on top of the letter????
 
123 {
124 |
125 }
126 ~
127
128 €
129 ￾
130 ‚
131 ƒ
132 „
133 …
134 †
135 ‡
136 ˆ
137 ‰
138 Š
139 ‹
140 Œ
141 ￾
142 Ž
143 ￾
144 ￾
145 ‘
146 ’
147 “
148 ”
149 •
150 –
151 —
152 ˜
153 ™
154 š
155 ›
156 œ
157 ￾
158 ž
159 Ÿ
160 *
161 ¡
162 ¢
163 £
164 ¤
165 ¥
166 ¦
167 §
168 ¨
169 ©
170 ª
171 «
172 ¬
173 *
174 ®
175 ¯
176 °
177 ±
178 ²
179 ³
180 ´
181 µ
182 ¶
183 ·
184 ¸
185 ¹
186 º
187 »
188 ¼
189 ½
190 ¾
191 ¿
192 À
193 Á
194 Â
195 Ã
196 Ä
197 Å
198 Æ
199 Ç
200 È
201 É
202 Ê
203 Ë
204 Ì
205 Í
206 Î
207 Ï
208 Ð
209 Ñ
210 Ò
211 Ó
212 Ô
213 Õ
214 Ö
215 ×
216 Ø
217 Ù
218 Ú
219 Û
220 Ü
221 Ý
222 Þ
223 ß
224 à
225 á
226 â
227 ã
228 ä
229 å
230 æ
231 ç
232 è
233 é
234 ê
235 ë
236 ì
237 í
238 î
239 ï
240 ð
241 ñ
242 ò
243 ó
244 ô
245 õ
246 ö
247 ÷
248 ø
249 ù
250 ú
251 û
252 ü
253 ý
254 þ
255 ÿ
 
alanhyatt said:
Hey Billisa,

For the record, the NT1a retails at $349.00, the B1 at $119.00, the NT1A sells for $199.00, the B1 sells for $99.00, so they are not really the same price, nor the same mic. I think if you compare the C1 against the NT1A, then you can say they sell for the same price, and they are very similar to each other.

I would love to comment more on this "retail issue" as I think some manufacturers and dealers are simply trying to fool buyers into thinking they are getting a better deal than they actually are based on inflated retail prices, however if I discuss this here, it may upset a couple of people on these boards....... :)

Well, the thing is that I can get a good deal on the Røde, so it won't cost me more than B1.
 
Decay said:
Well, the thing is that I can get a good deal on the Røde, so it won't cost me more than B1.

Ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo, what's your secret?
 
alanhyatt said:
Noise,

What about that e thing for Spain and Germany, you know with the two dots on top of the letter????

If you're not into codes, there are (at least) two other ways to get accent marks on letters: in Windows, you should have an accessory app called Character Map. The second way is somewhere under Control Panel, you can set a foreign language option with US keyboard where if you type an accent followed by a letter, the letter is automatically accented. Sorry I can't find specifics since that option is disabled on my work PC :(

Oh yes, ë
 
What APL said, or what mshilarious said. Both are right!! It can be done ...
 
Back
Top