Gidge
Lapdance Test Dummy
Do you think Guitar Satan has the Squier Q-Bass signature model?........
MISTERQCUE
Not Just Anutha Brutha
The new Q-bass, will not be sold on the open market!
Originally purchased for $99.00 it is now worth well over
$200.00!
Yeah monty, I do got some SKILLZ besides drinking!!!
Originally purchased for $99.00 it is now worth well over
$200.00!
Yeah monty, I do got some SKILLZ besides drinking!!!
Torpid-x
Member
Glad the truss rod adjustment worked out
Just curious, how high is your action at 12th fret? if you like your action high you can get away with a strait or at least straiter than normal neck adjustment.
TX
Just curious, how high is your action at 12th fret? if you like your action high you can get away with a strait or at least straiter than normal neck adjustment.
TX
Hard2Hear
New member
This is somewhat related...
This is a chart by a Fender VP of MIM strats vs MIA strats. May be helpful:
http://www.amug.org/~a249/comp.html
H2H
This is a chart by a Fender VP of MIM strats vs MIA strats. May be helpful:
http://www.amug.org/~a249/comp.html
H2H
P
psmith66
New member
H2H,
Thanks man. I was surfing for that exact info yesterday and came up empty.
BTW, bought an early '80's Japanese Strat on ebay last night. It has all the gear of an Amer plus Kahler. It's NOT a three bolt. It's NOT a Squier.
I don't like buying guitars before I try'em out, but the price was right - based on present market here, I'd be able to recoup my $$$ in a day if I didn't like it (obviously I'm covered re: defects).
Has alder body, maple neck, rosewood fingerboard. Don't have the serial number.
Anyone have any additional info on these?
Thanks man. I was surfing for that exact info yesterday and came up empty.
BTW, bought an early '80's Japanese Strat on ebay last night. It has all the gear of an Amer plus Kahler. It's NOT a three bolt. It's NOT a Squier.
I don't like buying guitars before I try'em out, but the price was right - based on present market here, I'd be able to recoup my $$$ in a day if I didn't like it (obviously I'm covered re: defects).
Has alder body, maple neck, rosewood fingerboard. Don't have the serial number.
Anyone have any additional info on these?
J
jeffteel
New member
Maybe I can give you a few tips here...
My first [electric] guitar was a Squier. It was white. I didn't know a damned thing about guitars at the time, so I made a little mistake.
I thought it would look good with some sort of natural finish or stain, so I sanded the piss out of it, only to discover that cheaper guitars like these are made from laminated basswood or some such thing. One word: ugly. Don't do that, dude.
So, I ended up painting it a metallic red color, and lacquering the hell out of it. In the end, it looked like crap.
So, here's what I recommend. Start off using some sort of paint stripper because that finish is thick and hard. You'll be sanding for weeks if you don't use it. Then sand it until it's as soft as a baby's butt using progressively finer sandpaper.
The next part is the most important, and what I know the least about. You'll need to prime and sand, and apply paint and sand some more. Then you'll want to use some sort of lacquer. If you use the right stuff, and do it in the right order, it'll look snazzy. If, on the other hand, you go to a hardware store and buy some cheap paint and lacquer and just dive in...it'll probably look like crap. You'll probably want to research this a bit more on the net.
Bottom line: When I got my Squier, it looked good, but sounded like crap. After I was done, it looked like crap, and it sounded like crap. But I really didn't screw anything up.
Go for it.
My first [electric] guitar was a Squier. It was white. I didn't know a damned thing about guitars at the time, so I made a little mistake.
I thought it would look good with some sort of natural finish or stain, so I sanded the piss out of it, only to discover that cheaper guitars like these are made from laminated basswood or some such thing. One word: ugly. Don't do that, dude.
So, I ended up painting it a metallic red color, and lacquering the hell out of it. In the end, it looked like crap.
So, here's what I recommend. Start off using some sort of paint stripper because that finish is thick and hard. You'll be sanding for weeks if you don't use it. Then sand it until it's as soft as a baby's butt using progressively finer sandpaper.
The next part is the most important, and what I know the least about. You'll need to prime and sand, and apply paint and sand some more. Then you'll want to use some sort of lacquer. If you use the right stuff, and do it in the right order, it'll look snazzy. If, on the other hand, you go to a hardware store and buy some cheap paint and lacquer and just dive in...it'll probably look like crap. You'll probably want to research this a bit more on the net.
Bottom line: When I got my Squier, it looked good, but sounded like crap. After I was done, it looked like crap, and it sounded like crap. But I really didn't screw anything up.
Go for it.
getuhgrip
Bring Back Transfat!
Squire neck........$50.00
pickups...............$30.00
1 can plasticote....$2.95
Honestly, you can probably score another squire on Ebay for less than a hundred with a paint job you like and other spare parts. I've also seen some mexican strats for under two bills.
Good luck
pickups...............$30.00
1 can plasticote....$2.95
Honestly, you can probably score another squire on Ebay for less than a hundred with a paint job you like and other spare parts. I've also seen some mexican strats for under two bills.
Good luck
L
leedon
New member
Is it possible to remove the 2 laminated layers on the cheap bodies ? Leaving just a solid body ? Would this affect the guitar in any way ?
Also, I'm looking to replace the pickups. Any suggestions for some good Seymour Duncan pickups ?
I recently put SD JB's and 59's into my Epi Les Paul, and it now kicks ass.
What models are recommended for Strats (punk/rock/metal sound). ?
Also, I'm looking to replace the pickups. Any suggestions for some good Seymour Duncan pickups ?
I recently put SD JB's and 59's into my Epi Les Paul, and it now kicks ass.
What models are recommended for Strats (punk/rock/metal sound). ?
Hard2Hear
New member
That wood you leave in the middle is basswood. Just one step up from balsa wood. It is so soft, you can dent it just by looking at it too long. I would not consider it a "solid" body after doing that.
You know what the best option is? find a Warmoth strat body in ASH. now THAT is a nice wood. Just toss some clear laquor on it and away you go!
ps66 - What does that Jap Strat look like? There are a couple models. That one that LOOKS just like a regular strat is a great one! The one that says "THE STRAT" on the neck I don't care for too much. Get the serial and I can find out info for you.
H2H
You know what the best option is? find a Warmoth strat body in ASH. now THAT is a nice wood. Just toss some clear laquor on it and away you go!
ps66 - What does that Jap Strat look like? There are a couple models. That one that LOOKS just like a regular strat is a great one! The one that says "THE STRAT" on the neck I don't care for too much. Get the serial and I can find out info for you.
H2H
2
2lim
New member
pickups
I just have been recently modifying a squier of my own.... affinity series so i have the same guitar as you. One good pickup i found, after testing a number of them was the diamarzio FRED pickup, i just put it in a day ago and i am very impressed with the sound.
I just have been recently modifying a squier of my own.... affinity series so i have the same guitar as you. One good pickup i found, after testing a number of them was the diamarzio FRED pickup, i just put it in a day ago and i am very impressed with the sound.
P
psmith66
New member
H2H:
It's a legit Japanese Strat. It is generally referred to as a contemporary standard 22 fret and has "American" quality components (alder body, maple neck with skunk stripe, rosewood fretboard, etc). The headstock has the typical Fender Stratocaster label with the serial number underneath (can't remember it right now). "Made in Japan" on the heel beneath the finish. It's also a four bolt, as opposed to some of the Japanese models which were three bolt (but apparently still of high quality). The guitar is an 86 and was built during a span between 85 and 86 when CBS dropped Fender - the Fullerton plant was not building guitars and therefore (so the story goes) 80% of strats sold in the USA during a certain span between 85 and 86 were actually built in Japan. Story also has it that Fender's Dan Smith visited Japan and checked the Japanese Strat RI's out and conceded that they were better than the American models at the time.
Based on the research I've done via various sites (including fenderforum.com), I've formed an opinion that these are at least as good as American Standards - certainly above Mexicans (which really are fine guitars themselves). If my opinion holds true, then there are certainly deals to be had on ebay (paid $350 for mine - I've seen others go for less) Of course, none of this really means a lot until the guitar arrives and I try it out. And I have yet to read anything particularly good or bad re: pup's. But that's the least of my worries if the thing feels good and is otherwise up to snuff (pup's can be replaced).
For a good site on Japanese Strats specifically, check out
http://freespace.virgin.net/john.blackman4/index.htm
Anyway, my fingers are crossed - I was never a proponent of buying without playing but this just felt right. The idea is to sell if I don't like it - no problem recouping my money in this market (used strats of any kind are hard to come by around these parts - people generally won't part with them).
So that'll be it - LP, strat, Marshall, couple of great acoustics. NOT.
It's a legit Japanese Strat. It is generally referred to as a contemporary standard 22 fret and has "American" quality components (alder body, maple neck with skunk stripe, rosewood fretboard, etc). The headstock has the typical Fender Stratocaster label with the serial number underneath (can't remember it right now). "Made in Japan" on the heel beneath the finish. It's also a four bolt, as opposed to some of the Japanese models which were three bolt (but apparently still of high quality). The guitar is an 86 and was built during a span between 85 and 86 when CBS dropped Fender - the Fullerton plant was not building guitars and therefore (so the story goes) 80% of strats sold in the USA during a certain span between 85 and 86 were actually built in Japan. Story also has it that Fender's Dan Smith visited Japan and checked the Japanese Strat RI's out and conceded that they were better than the American models at the time.
Based on the research I've done via various sites (including fenderforum.com), I've formed an opinion that these are at least as good as American Standards - certainly above Mexicans (which really are fine guitars themselves). If my opinion holds true, then there are certainly deals to be had on ebay (paid $350 for mine - I've seen others go for less) Of course, none of this really means a lot until the guitar arrives and I try it out. And I have yet to read anything particularly good or bad re: pup's. But that's the least of my worries if the thing feels good and is otherwise up to snuff (pup's can be replaced).
For a good site on Japanese Strats specifically, check out
http://freespace.virgin.net/john.blackman4/index.htm
Anyway, my fingers are crossed - I was never a proponent of buying without playing but this just felt right. The idea is to sell if I don't like it - no problem recouping my money in this market (used strats of any kind are hard to come by around these parts - people generally won't part with them).
So that'll be it - LP, strat, Marshall, couple of great acoustics. NOT.
L
lazyboy
New member
Psmith:
I bought a standard 22 used for $175 around 1990. I still have yet to find a guitar I like better--at any price! The locking trem may look like an afterthought (particularly at the nut), but it works wonderfully. Drop me a line when you get yours. Tell me how you like it.
I bought a standard 22 used for $175 around 1990. I still have yet to find a guitar I like better--at any price! The locking trem may look like an afterthought (particularly at the nut), but it works wonderfully. Drop me a line when you get yours. Tell me how you like it.
P
psmith66
New member
Lazyboy:
If my bid holds for next 4 hours, there'll be a 2nd MIJ on the way (white, around same year, std tremelo, couple of notable battle scars). My 6 day old bid is holding up. If I get it, I'll likely keep the best one and sell the other. I'll post my experience(s) after arrival.
What's your experience with the Kahler? Is the locking nut a pain? Is it removable without a lot of trouble?
If my bid holds for next 4 hours, there'll be a 2nd MIJ on the way (white, around same year, std tremelo, couple of notable battle scars). My 6 day old bid is holding up. If I get it, I'll likely keep the best one and sell the other. I'll post my experience(s) after arrival.
What's your experience with the Kahler? Is the locking nut a pain? Is it removable without a lot of trouble?
L
lazyboy
New member
Mine has a system I trem.
Like all floating trems, if you break a string during a gig, I hope you have a fast guitar tech and a back-up guitar. The fine tuners are just that--fine tuners. They'll adjust about 1/2 step. You may be able to find some combination that'll let you move from standard to drop-D without loosening the nut. You've probably read already that the saddles have no independent height adjustment. I've always just taken mine to a tech for set-up so that hasn't really affected me. And as I said, the lock at the nut looks like an afterthought, but it does work. I've thought about getting new locking tuners, and scrapping the nut thing altogether, but I haven't yet.
It doesn't have the travel of a Floyd, but it seems to be more dependable as it will recoil back in tune. With moderate use, it will honestly stay in tune for weeks at a time. I have no inclination to get another guitar with a locking trem, but this one is pretty good in my opinion.
Incidently, I was at a friend's house last night bullshitting with the tv on in the background. The Martin Lawrence show was on and he was dressed up like Ike Turner carrying around a red contemporary 22 with a system I.
BTW- where did you get the information on the wood used on the body? I haven't read that before.
Like all floating trems, if you break a string during a gig, I hope you have a fast guitar tech and a back-up guitar. The fine tuners are just that--fine tuners. They'll adjust about 1/2 step. You may be able to find some combination that'll let you move from standard to drop-D without loosening the nut. You've probably read already that the saddles have no independent height adjustment. I've always just taken mine to a tech for set-up so that hasn't really affected me. And as I said, the lock at the nut looks like an afterthought, but it does work. I've thought about getting new locking tuners, and scrapping the nut thing altogether, but I haven't yet.
It doesn't have the travel of a Floyd, but it seems to be more dependable as it will recoil back in tune. With moderate use, it will honestly stay in tune for weeks at a time. I have no inclination to get another guitar with a locking trem, but this one is pretty good in my opinion.
Incidently, I was at a friend's house last night bullshitting with the tv on in the background. The Martin Lawrence show was on and he was dressed up like Ike Turner carrying around a red contemporary 22 with a system I.
BTW- where did you get the information on the wood used on the body? I haven't read that before.
P
psmith66
New member
Lazyboy:
The seller stated that it was alder (which I will be confirming as soon as it arrives), but I also read a couple of fenderforum posts which stated the same.
I was aware that the the Kahler didn't allow for individual string height adjustment, but I'm assuming that won't be a problem since I'm used to the bridge on my LP which has a bolt on each end.
Also, the ebay comments described the system as Kahler "Spyder". It could possibly be the System III (I can't check because the pics have been removed fron ebay).
The seller stated that it was alder (which I will be confirming as soon as it arrives), but I also read a couple of fenderforum posts which stated the same.
I was aware that the the Kahler didn't allow for individual string height adjustment, but I'm assuming that won't be a problem since I'm used to the bridge on my LP which has a bolt on each end.
Also, the ebay comments described the system as Kahler "Spyder". It could possibly be the System III (I can't check because the pics have been removed fron ebay).
P
psmith66
New member
My Japanese Strat has arrived.....
Lazyboy,
I finally got my hands on the Japanese Strat (arrived a few days ago and I just got it back from the tech - had a setup and full diagnostic done - replaced the switch and that was it).
It's better than I expected - I definitely lucked out. I've confirmed it's an 86 with alder body. Been playing it for about four hours straight (my Les Paul is giving it the evil eye from across the room).
I'm a happy camper.............
Lazyboy,
I finally got my hands on the Japanese Strat (arrived a few days ago and I just got it back from the tech - had a setup and full diagnostic done - replaced the switch and that was it).
It's better than I expected - I definitely lucked out. I've confirmed it's an 86 with alder body. Been playing it for about four hours straight (my Les Paul is giving it the evil eye from across the room).
I'm a happy camper.............
F
FINNMAN
New member
Strats are Strats are strats!
USA, MIM, JAP. copies, ETC! They all have the same shortcomings right out of the box, and if the Fender/Gibson/PRS,etc purists would get off their high horses for a moment and admit it,all new guitars need tweaking! Never seen a strat that would stay in tune under my abuse. American Standards included. I immediately replace the tuners with sperzel trim-locks, replace the nut with an EARVANA compensating nut, and graph-tech saddles. For your squire, all these mods+ a crazee paint job would keep you under $300. plus, you would have a stay-in-tune strat that with any luck, would be quite a looker! An hey!, if the paint looks good enuff, maybe buy a warmoth neck for a hundred n' some bucks! Check out their thrift shop! Next, getcha some good pickups, and this will be your main axe, garunteed! I've got some jap strats that I wrangle nearly to death, that you wouldn't know the difference from 5 feet away. One in particular I painted popsicle orange with 15 coats of hand rubbed clear, and then put a tortoise shell pickguars on! It's sooo ugly, that it's beautiful! Have fun!
USA, MIM, JAP. copies, ETC! They all have the same shortcomings right out of the box, and if the Fender/Gibson/PRS,etc purists would get off their high horses for a moment and admit it,all new guitars need tweaking! Never seen a strat that would stay in tune under my abuse. American Standards included. I immediately replace the tuners with sperzel trim-locks, replace the nut with an EARVANA compensating nut, and graph-tech saddles. For your squire, all these mods+ a crazee paint job would keep you under $300. plus, you would have a stay-in-tune strat that with any luck, would be quite a looker! An hey!, if the paint looks good enuff, maybe buy a warmoth neck for a hundred n' some bucks! Check out their thrift shop! Next, getcha some good pickups, and this will be your main axe, garunteed! I've got some jap strats that I wrangle nearly to death, that you wouldn't know the difference from 5 feet away. One in particular I painted popsicle orange with 15 coats of hand rubbed clear, and then put a tortoise shell pickguars on! It's sooo ugly, that it's beautiful! Have fun!