Shure 589S

[tarzan52s]

I have had this mike for several years, and it never worked. I saw a thread somewhere about building a mike and I wondered if this might be a good place to start. The "guts" seem fairly simple. Any suggestions?

 

[mshilarious]

The first thing to do is try to figure out why the mic doesn't work, even if you just want to gut it. Since it's a dynamic, there are only a few parts: the capsule, the transformer, a switch, and the connector. I see that this mic has a dual impedance switch, so the transformer will have a few taps.

Get yourself a multimeter--Radio Shack has a $16 jobbie that works fine--and test each wire for continuity, and test resistance between the transformer leads. If all is well, then maybe the capsule has died a horrible death, which is rare, but it happens.

Probably you will find there is a broken wire. Resolder it, and see if it works.

Now if you decide you want to gut it and start over, you will have already learned all its parts, and more importantly, you will know exactly how much room inside you have to play with.

Then you just have to pick a mic design!

 

[tarzan52s]

It may have been just a bad connection until......I pulled on the element to remove it from the case and ripped all the "hair thin" wires off the terminals.
My thinking is...bypass the switch, but will I loose the ground? The black/center wire on the element appears to "ground" to the switch.
Also, will I need to reconnect both yellow and green wires to the element?

Thanks

 

[mshilarious]

It may have been just a bad connection until......I pulled on the element to remove it from the case and ripped all the "hair thin" wires off the terminals.
My thinking is...bypass the switch, but will I loose the ground? The black/center wire on the element appears to "ground" to the switch.
Also, will I need to reconnect both yellow and green wires to the element?

Thanks

Well if you tore the wire inside the capsule, it's pretty much toast. Those are like 42ga insulated wires, very tough to work with. But the colored leads inside the mic from the capsule to the switch/transformer should be pretty easy to repair or replace. See the schemo on p.2 here for proper wiring:

http://www.shure.com/pdf/discontinued/589s.pdf

Switches on a mic don't lift grounds, typically they are hot. So if you bypass the switch, ground is not affected.

 

[tarzan52s]

Thanks for the help. I didn't mangle the wires in the element, only the 42 ga. going from the switch.

 

[mshilarious]

Thanks for the help. I didn't mangle the wires in the element, only the 42 ga. going from the switch.

No that's more like 28ga. Be thankful you don't have to work with 42ga!!!

 

[tarzan52s]

Do you have any insight as to what the terminal on the bottom of the element should look like? Now they appear to be a "blob" of solder. Is there a hole somewhere in the terminal?

 

[mshilarious]

Do you have any insight as to what the terminal on the bottom of the element should look like? Now they appear to be a "blob" of solder. Is there a hole somewhere in the terminal?

Generally the blob of solder covers up a small hole where one of the weensy little wires from the capsule peeks through. I do not recommend messing with the blob of solder for that reason. Just touch it up with a tiny bit of fresh solder, strip about 2mm of the broken lead, retin, and solder it back to the terminal.

 

[tarzan52s]

Managed to splice wires and get a connection on green and yellow, but the black wire in the center (ground?) is more challenging. Tell me again about "gutting" and starting over....please.

 

[tarzan52s]

Hey, MSHILARIOUS! Tell me more about rebuilding a mic.

 

[mshilarious]

Are you still trying to repair it? Maybe try posting some pictures

 

[tarzan52s]

Here you go.....
http://www.homerecording.com/bbs/attachment.php?attachmentid=
31486&stc=1http://www.homerecording.com/bbs/attachment.php?attachmentid=31487&stc=1

I'm not at all sure it's worth saving.