Service Manual for Teac X-7R

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dodgeaspen

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Hey guys, I know I should post this in the Tascam forum but I thought I'd get faster responses in the analog forum. My Nephew's X-7R I think needs a new belt. I'm not sure if it's a direct drive or belt driven. I want to look at the manual before I dig in. If I can fix this it might build my confidence enough to work on my 38. Thanks for any help. Tascam is out of the question because we don't have the money to buy the manual.
 
looks like the very last paragraph (in italics) should be given some special attention
 
Thanks for the advice Richard. It looks complicated but with the pics I'll be able to get through it.
 
I have to replace the belt on my X-10R, which is almost the same deck as the X-7R, except that it can handle 10.5" reels.

Do you know anything about the condition of the belt? I got the deck recently, and the belt had turned into black rubber mush... almost tar-like. Here's a picture of the belt, and the gunk it left on my fingertips:

x10rbelt.jpg


beltresidue.jpg
 
Not sure of the condition of the belt. I'm just assuming it needs replaced. It runs slow and needs help going in both play directions. It might be a cap or a motor but I'm trying to take the easy way out. The heads and things look fantastic, so I'll try to get it back to operating condition. I called Teac and the belt is almost 14.00 plus shipping. I don't think the price is too bad.
 
I might need a little more help!

I was able to pull the belt and IMO it might be stretched but it didn't look that bad. Does anyone think it could be a capstan motor or something? I'm going to order a belt on Monday. I'll post a pic in a few.
 
I mistakenly ordered two belts. I have one left. Do you want to buy it from me instead? I'm pretty sure it's the same belt, but you should verify this yourself.

I'd actually really appreciate it if you bought it from me, because I don't know what I'm going to do with a spare belt.

PM me, OK?

Edit: It's a belt for a X-10R.
 
lo.fi.love said:
I mistakenly ordered two belts. I have one left. Do you want to buy it from me instead? I'm pretty sure it's the same belt, but you should verify this yourself.

I'd actually really appreciate it if you bought it from me, because I don't know what I'm going to do with a spare belt.

PM me, OK?

Edit: It's a belt for a X-10R.
Click to expand...

PM'd you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
For future reference the capstan belt is the same for both the Teac X-7R and X-10R. I verified this through Teac parts.
 
Good news, the belt Lo fi sent me arrived today. I compared the two and found the old belt was stretched about 1 1/2 inches or so longer then the replacement. I got everything back together and the problems I was having with the capstan are now a thing of the past. The next problem I need help with is when FF a full reel to the take up reel it seems to be good and strong for the most part but when I try to RR from take up reel to the supply reel I need to help it along. It RR's very slow and will come to a stop if I don't help it. My question is, does this sound like a motor going bad or a cap or something else? As far as playing in both directions it's OK but in FF and RR is when I have the problems. Please help me.
 
It's definitely with the motors, since FF and RW are driven by the reel motors. Other than that, I have no clue. I'm trying to bring my X-10R back from the dead, personally, so I have no other advice to offer.
 
lo.fi.love said:
It's definitely with the motors, since FF and RW are driven by the reel motors. Other than that, I have no clue. I'm trying to bring my X-10R back from the dead, personally, so I have no other advice to offer.
Click to expand...

That's cool. Maybe someone will be able to chime in and help the both of us.
 
If most of the problem is in RR doesn't that mean the motor on the left (as your looking at the front of the deck) is going bad?
 
X-10r

I have a X-10R along with the Owners manual (1 manual for both X-10R and X-7R), Information Supplement and Schematics for both the 10 and 7...

Looking over the drive electronics for the reel motors I see a number of transistors that apply the various currents to get the torques needed for play, FF and REW.

To me the first question is: Is it the motor that is the problem or the drive electronics? How to test?

Because this is a bidirectional play deck you should have the same torque in forward play and on reverse play on their respective reels. As well as FF and REW. Does that make sense?

Try this out. Lock the tension arms up (I use blue masking tape) so the the deck can enter play. With 2 empty reels on it and no tape select forward play. Feel the torque on both reels. Now, select reverse play and feel the torque again. In play the right reel should have more torque than the left. In reverse play the left reel should have more torque then the right. THe take up reel in forward play should have the same torque as the take up reel in reverse play.

Now try FF and REW. The receiving reel should have the same torque in FF and REW.

What you have told us is that in REW the receiving reel (motor) has very little torque.

Where I am going here is that if the reel motor is bad then I would think that the that the receiving reel (supply side , left side) torque would be also lacking. But if it is strong (like the right side when in forward play) then I would suspect the reel motor electronics.

Poof, Just tried it out on my X-10R . The REW and FF are strong and equal Left side for REW and Right side for FF. Almost no torque on the other reel. (does not really turn). In play the receiving side has more torque than the supply side. And they have less torque that FF or REW. Not sure that this will help.

If both reels turn with strong torque, in REW then the problem is electronics.

Good luck on that description :eek:

--Ethan
 
evm1024 said:
I have a X-10R along with the Owners manual (1 manual for both X-10R and X-7R), Information Supplement and Schematics for both the 10 and 7...

Looking over the drive electronics for the reel motors I see a number of transistors that apply the various currents to get the torques needed for play, FF and REW.

To me the first question is: Is it the motor that is the problem or the drive electronics? How to test?

Because this is a bidirectional play deck you should have the same torque in forward play and on reverse play on their respective reels. As well as FF and REW. Does that make sense?

Try this out. Lock the tension arms up (I use blue masking tape) so the the deck can enter play. With 2 empty reels on it and no tape select forward play. Feel the torque on both reels. Now, select reverse play and feel the torque again. In play the right reel should have more torque than the left. In reverse play the left reel should have more torque then the right. THe take up reel in forward play should have the same torque as the take up reel in reverse play.

Now try FF and REW. The receiving reel should have the same torque in FF and REW.

What you have told us is that in REW the receiving reel (motor) has very little torque.

Where I am going here is that if the reel motor is bad then I would think that the that the receiving reel (supply side , left side) torque would be also lacking. But if it is strong (like the right side when in forward play) then I would suspect the reel motor electronics.

Poof, Just tried it out on my X-10R . The REW and FF are strong and equal Left side for REW and Right side for FF. Almost no torque on the other reel. (does not really turn). In play the receiving side has more torque than the supply side. And they have less torque that FF or REW. Not sure that this will help.

If both reels turn with strong torque, in REW then the problem is electronics.

Good luck on that description :eek:

--Ethan
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Ethan. I'll need to reread your post again and take it step by step. I'll post my findings latter.
 
Ethan, I read your instructions and performed the tests. I found the left reel to to be weaker in RR. I also noticed when rewinding a 7" reel from right to left it rewinds ok untill less then half way through then it will come to an almost stop. Then it will start to squeak. At first I thought it might be the tape, but after changing to a newer tape it is definitely the left motor squeaking. Is their a way for me to check the voltage at the motor and the resisters in the drive electronics? Where are the transistors located? I do have some electronics knowledge but that's mostly on Chrysler vehicles. Thanks for the help.
 
Easy to trace.

It should be easy to trace the wires coming from the motors to where they hook up on the PCB. I had thought to measure the voltages there but left that out. The voltage should not change as it goes through the reel. There should be a "flashing" voltage at the start (higher than the steady state voltage) for a half second or so to overcome inertia.

Did you ever get a service manual and schematic?

If it is the tape I would expect it to bind both in FF and REW. Side note sticky shed does not have to be uniform from one of the tape to another. It can effect one part of a tape more than another.

In any case it sounds like a motor.

Regards, Ethan
 
evm1024 said:
It should be easy to trace the wires coming from the motors to where they hook up on the PCB. I had thought to measure the voltages there but left that out. The voltage should not change as it goes through the reel. There should be a "flashing" voltage at the start (higher than the steady state voltage) for a half second or so to overcome inertia.

Did you ever get a service manual and schematic?

If it is the tape I would expect it to bind both in FF and REW. Side note sticky shed does not have to be uniform from one of the tape to another. It can effect one part of a tape more than another.

In any case it sounds like a motor.

Regards, Ethan
Click to expand...

Wow that was a fast response, thanks. This is my Nephews deck and we don't have a manual for it so I'm kind of winging it now. Trying to be as cheap as possible. I'll try a Google search for service and owners manual for it in PDF somewhere. Thanks for all the help.
 
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