Reel to reel Op amp substitution

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evm1024

evm1024

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I'm thinking about replacing the NJM4558/4559 op amps in my Tascam 32 with opa2132 or opa 2604. Does anyone have experience with this? (ditto Tascam 32,34,38 same board for the most part)

The only reservation I have is that I cannot locate the current drive capability of the njm4559 which drives the write heads.

I would suspect that the heads require less than 40 MA ( the limit of the 2132).

Any experience here?

Regards
 
Here's the data sheet for the 4559 if you don't have it.

http://www.njr.co.jp/pdf/ae/ae04052.pdf

The 5532AN was a common replacement in older Tascam gear like the 80-8 or 32. The JRC4580 is also a big improvement over the 4558/4559. Both are drop-in replacements if the Burr-Brown stuff doesn’t work out.

I've upgraded a 22-2 with op-amp and metal film resistors. It is different enough from the 32 that it doesn't share any common component locations with the 32 in the rec/replay amp section. But they do both have 4558.

-Tim :)
 
got one

Thanks Tim I have a data sheet. Problem is that most of them do not show the output source and sink currents.

I did find a Toshiba datasheet that did spec the output current. It was around the standar 40 ma so I should be fine with just about any opamp.

Quantifying the results would be hard.

So how did your 22-2 sound after the opamps and metal films?

Regards

PS I'm still working on the headphone amp. The first one I made could not drive my old Koss so I'm off to design #2. But it was quiet!
 
evm1024 said:
PS I'm still working on the headphone amp. The first one I made could not drive my old Koss so I'm off to design #2. But it was quiet!
Would be interested in how you get on. I had an email on Tuesday confirming that my 32 had finally left Auckland on road freight, so I'd expect it early next week. I'm off to Rarotonga for 10 days next Thursday :) so I don't know if I'll get much chance to play with it before I leave (don't think my wife will let me :eek: )!

Also interested in how the op-amp replacement. I tend to throw TL072's at everything :o but know there are better options out there!
 
Op amp ref

arjoll said:
Would be interested in how you get on. I had an email on Tuesday confirming that my 32 had finally left Auckland on road freight, so I'd expect it early next week. I'm off to Rarotonga for 10 days next Thursday :) so I don't know if I'll get much chance to play with it before I leave (don't think my wife will let me :eek: )!

Also interested in how the op-amp replacement. I tend to throw TL072's at everything :o but know there are better options out there!

I'll be making a web page on the headphone upgrade and perhaps the opamp change.

Take a look at: http://tangentsoft.net/audio/opamps.html for a subjective look at the "sound" of various opamps. I have not done a side to side test and cannot say if this is bunk or pure TRUTH or BS. Just food for thought and the reports of opamp upgrade success abound.

Spec wise the TL-07x family was good for their time. But the upgrade opamps specs suggest that the TL072 are operating much closer to their limits than the other opamps.

device.....BW....noise.........slew...thd...........cost
type........MHz...nV/Hz^-1..V/uS...%............each

njm4558....3......20..............1......?.............?
njm4559....6......20..............2......?.............?
tl072........3......18.............13......0.003.......$0.50 (USD)
opa2132....8.......8.............20......0.00008....$5
opa2604..20......10.............25......0.0003.....$5
opa627....16.......5.............40......0.00003....$18 (2 required! single opamp)


These are "typical" figures with min values much lower in some cases.

As you can see from the spec side (may or may not equate to listenability - no claims made there) Almost anything is an upgrade from the njm4558/9.

The cost goes up from pennies to 10s of dollars each.

For me the noise and distortion figures come first and the slew rate next.

Regards
 
This interests me cause I have all of these preamp cards for a tascam 388 and thought I would try my hand at moding one or two and switching them out and see what happens.
But Im not sure where to start or which chips I need to look at to do this. Im not bad with a soldering iron or the basics but when it comes to chossing the right parts I am in trouble.
Any suggestions? Besides i am bored and need a new project and this looks like a cheap way to have some fun.

Thanks Gary
 
keep us posted!

Herm said:
This interests me cause I have all of these preamp cards for a tascam 388 and thought I would try my hand at moding one or two and switching them out and see what happens.
But Im not sure where to start or which chips I need to look at to do this. Im not bad with a soldering iron or the basics but when it comes to chossing the right parts I am in trouble.
Any suggestions? Besides i am bored and need a new project and this looks like a cheap way to have some fun.

Thanks Gary

Hi Gary,

I would first identify the opamps on your boards. In general the 8 pin dips have insdustry standard pin outs so drop in replacements are common. The chief pit fall is that 8 pin dip opamps can be single or dual device.

For my money the opa132 (single) and opa2132 (dual) devices are the way to go. Or the opa2134 (lower dc spec opa2132 but OK at half the cost). THe other choice (dual) is the opa2227pa.

Over the next few weeks I will be replacing the opamp in my M208 board and will need to do a bulk buy. Digikey and others have them.

On a side note. For this kind of work I would suggest that you buy a solder sucker if you do not have one. It is a spring loaded vaccuum that sucks the solder off the pins of the IC thus making it easer to remove them and with less chance of damage.

Regards
 
opa2134pa now in Tascam 32

well tonight I replaced the njm4558/9 in my Tascam 32 with opa2134pa. No ill effects so far. I'm just dubbing some cd onto some old scotch 206 to check for obvious defects.

I think that my kids must have taken my solfer sucker and used it as a toy as that it is nowhere to be found. However you should have seen me with a soldering iron in one hand and the hose to a shop vac in the other unsoldering the opamps. :eek:

Sonically I cannot say what this has done for me. I do however have faith.

regards
 
evm1024 said:
I'll be making a web page on the headphone upgrade and perhaps the opamp change.
Thanks, I'll look forward to this. The price of the TL07x range appeals, but I'll have to have a look and see how redily available some of the others are.

I can buy some stuff locally from Dick Smith but the staff are idiots - know nothing about components they're selling or how to handle them and as a company they seem to be moving away from selling components. I'd buy caps and resistors there but don't trust them with ICs, especially CMOS. I'm now buying these from RS, but they're not cheap!

Cya
Andrew
 
evm1024 said:
For this kind of work I would suggest that you buy a solder sucker if you do not have one. It is a spring loaded vaccuum that sucks the solder off the pins of the IC thus making it easer to remove them and with less chance of damage.
Ditto to that, I wouldn't be without mine!
 
evm1024 said:
So how did your 22-2 sound after the opamps and metal films?

My 22-2 sounds super with the 4580 and carbon resistors replaced with metal film. I've set the machine as high as 320 nW/m with no audible distortion. The 32 will do more than that. I normally use 407, so it's set at 250 nW/m.

The 22-2 was factory set at only 185 nW/m because it was to be compatible with consumer hi-fi tape such as Maxell UD 35-90. The mods have allowed me to push the levels well above that with no ill effect. Subjectively it sounds more open. I'm judging this by ear, as I don't have a distortion meter.

The 22-2 sounds good stock, but this does change the sound. The 32 and 22-2 are just good machines to begin with.

I was originally going to try some OPA2604s before I ran across the 4580. I didn't want to get into decoupling capacitors and whatnot. Since the 4580 is an improvement in the basic 4558 type I decided it would be a safe bet with minimal tweaking after the upgrade. That's about how it was - not far off and no unwelcome surprises. I think the mods help get the electronics out of the way so it's the tape doing the distortion, not the electronics.

I'm interested to see how your mod works with the Burr-Brown once you start recording. It may not even need the decoupling caps.

-Tim :)
 
Last edited:
Building the table

I've added in a few more common opamps.

device.....BW....noise.........slew...thd...........cost
type........MHz...nV/Hz^-1..V/uS...%............each

njm4558....3......20..............1......?.............?
njm4559....6......20..............2......?.............?
njm4560..10......15..............4.......?.............?
tl072........3......18.............13......0.003.......$0.50 (USD)
ne5532....10.......5..............9.......?..............?
opa2132....8.......8.............20......0.00008....$5
opa2604..20......10.............25......0.0003.....$5
opa627....16.......5.............40......0.00003....$18 (2 required! single opamp)

At this point listening to my 32 with opa2132 after recording very hot material show no problems with distortion, clipping or oscillations. I still need to calibrate it up to 320 nWb/m and give it a try. I do not have any 499 available so I will have to use 456. (Oh minor correction from before I recorded on 3m 226 not 206)

regards
 
M-208 opamp recommendation?

Hi,
I see this thread was going somewhere with the mods, I wonder if any central "mod pages" exist?
I have a noisy 2nd hand m-208 which i am keen to rejuvenate so any opamp/cap/power supply issues would be most welcome to hear about. I'm going to be using it more or less exclusively as a line level mixer. I'm not updating the mic pre's so as to give the mix and aux busses more juice for any power hungry more recent HI FI opamps.
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks!
Docta_Rock74 :rolleyes:
 
Late in reply

Hi There,

Sorry about the delay in getting back to you. I've been very busy here at work.

I only updated a few of the opamps in my m208 on the pre frontends so far. I've been using opa2132. The power required is not too much greater than the existing opamp so I have not seen any problems with the power supply. Overloading a ps will result in increased ripple and loss of regulation plus the regulator running hot. There are a number of ways to increase the ps output up to the transformers power limits.

Tracking down the noise is a process of elemination. You should have a schematic for this unit. The idea is to isolate the specific channel/section(s) that is the source of the noise and then to the specific component that is causing the noise. In general these units are fairly noiseless so I assume that the noise level you are hearing is caused by a faulty part.

Find and replace the part and the noiseshould "go away".

The variable resistors (sliders) and switch contacts are possable souirces of noise.You should be able to hear differing levels of noise as you slide/switch them. The solution is to clean them with a good quality crontact/pot cleaner. There have been a number of products listed onthe list but perhaps someone from the UK could make a recommendation.

In general changing out input and feedback resistors to metal film resistors of the same value would decrease the systemic noise.

Best of luck!
 
any subjective comments regarding the new opamps?

thanks for your reply!

I managed to glean this from Jim Williams (audio upgrades) on the gearslutz forum -this was from a rambling and frequently unbelievable 35 page "discussion" on a forthcoming MalcomToft/PMI 'Trident' desk- its build quality, VFM etc- worth a look if you have several million hours to kill ;)


"First thing you need to know is this: If you're recording quality acoustic instruments, you won't be happy with a TL07X, period. You are considering purchasing a console, to be honest, that is designed for rock music. As with most of the English stuff, the dual package TLO72 and maybe a few 5532 opamps will be found, just like back in 1976, thirty years ago. Nothing new under the hood except maybe a BB1N217 mic pre chip (commonly selected rather than design a real mic pre circuit in low cost consoles).

So, no single package opamps, these are all duals, to save pcb space and money. Next, you need to determine whether there are components needed to stabilize a wideband opamp are already mounted. These include local .1 uf psu bypass caps located next to each opamp. I doubt there are more than a couple for the entire input card as the TLO7X are forgiving to pcb parasitics. Next you need to determine whether there are feedback phase lead compensation caps on each stage. Earlier Toft/Oram designs left many of these out forcing the tech to install a zillion of them. Once these requirements are met, then the game of stabilizing opamps begins.

For stereo single opamp design summing amps, the LT1358 is the best contender as it's the only 25 mhz bandwidth opamp with 90 db of loop gain in the audio band that still remains stable after hanging 40 or so buss resistors on it. This chip is 30 db cleaner than the 5532 opamp. Take 30 db of dirt off an acoustic mix and you will hear it. It also is fast, a 600 v/us slew rate vs 6 v/us slew for the 5532. That's 100 times faster and you can hear it. TL07X opamps are limited to 40 db open loop gain at 10k hz, so they are dirty. Put them in an EQ and boost 15 db and then you have only 25 db of loop gain left to correct distortion, not too good.
Then again, some folks like a certain amount and flavor of dirt with their music.

For EQ, line amps, etc. many devices could be auditioned. Try these:
LT1358
OPA2604
OPA2134
OPA2132
OP275
TLE2072
AD823
LM6172 etc.

With S08 to dip adapters you can play with either single opamps or surface mount only opamps. You can then try a OPA627, OP42, AD825, etc.
You will need a scope to check each stage as a flat line in the absense of signal is the goal. Precision devices like the LT1358 can usually have the electrolytic coupling caps removed as they have no offsets. That allows low end below 5 hz without phase shift."


I was wondering whether the LT1358 might be worth a look for the summing amps, as i might not need to replace the mic pre's (unless they're faulty) because i really only need line level mixing at the moment- I have a Trident 4t Celebration Channel Strip which is waaay more than i need (but superb!), and a MOTU traveler with 4 decent Pre's already. Also, i think i've heard enough "dirty flavour" having previously owned a Soundcraft 400b from the early 80's- time for a bit of soap methinks.
Referring to the above lengthy quote it seems he likes the LT1358, but there may be a P/S penalty i suspect. anyways, thanks for your reply and maybe this thread may be useful to other Tascam heads! ;)
 
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