Quick fire questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Krystof01
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Krystof01

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Hi,
I would be greatful for some answers on the following concerning electronic drums.

-How 'real' (camparative to acoustic drums) do they sound (I'm thinking about recording here?

-From what I've read the alesis dm pro sounds like a good kit to buy:
-Is this a good choice/how much should I pay?
-Can you buy the kit without the module (buy that seperate as there seems to be a lot of them about)?
- What else would you suggest to buy here?

-Anything else to look out for/be aware of buying an electronic kit as I am a guitarist primarily and not a drummer.

Thanks in advance,
Krystof.
 
Just like with guitar, you need to decide what you want the drums to do (Tele vs. a Les Paul, etc). Some key question to ask yourself:

1. Do you want/need the feel of mesh pads vs. rubber pads
2. How many "drums" and "cymbals" do you need (ie: how many pads)
3. How many outputs do you need, for recording (stereo vs. 6 outputs vs. 8 outputs, etc)
4. Do you need "real sounding" drums vs 808/909 hiphop sounds

The DM Pro is a very good module - although I've heard some say they've had trouble with it. You can buy the module stand alone. The pads are actually made by Hart - so if you want just the pads find a Hart dealer. Pintech also make good pads.

If you are a guitarist - it is very possible you don't care as much about the "feel" of the pads - is which case the rubber pads may be OK for you - which can keep your costs down - (and give you more buying options).

Yamaha has a DTExpress kit which goes for $1000 and Roland just came out with a TD6 kit for about $1200, both kits have some good sounds. However, each of these kits only has stereo outs - whereas the DM Pro has either 6 or 8 outs (I forget which).

If you choose to buy the pads seperate from the module - make sure they work together - as an example - if my memory serves, Yamaha pads don't trigger a Roland module.

Regarding how real they sound - I've done numerous recordings with e-drums and rarely have I (or engineers or producers) been unhappy - I take that back, engineers are always unhappy - I think it's in the genes.

Given the fact that accoustic drums require tuning skill, a great sounding room, and more mics than most of us can afford - I think e-drums are a no brainer for home recording (and in many cases, studio recording).
 
Cheers mikeh;

I am bothered about the sound I get. I want it to record tracks over my guide drum tracks for my current project (but want to buy rather than rent). I play mainly rock orientated music. I would be open to suggestions as I don't really have anywhere near that I can go and test. If it is cheaper to buy a module seperate and the drums I would do. Money is and isn't an factor. I certailnly don't want to waste my money; I want the real thing as opposed to 'tacky' sounding (ie-want real sounding). I will wait for a while longer to obtain the funds rather than buy now if that's what it takes.

I'm not really after 1000's of different sounds, I'm looking for the 'simple' acoustic drum sound (if there is such a thing). I am recording onto my D16 (16 tracks), it has 8 inputs for recording at once.

To be honest I don't know that much about electronic drums, MIDI and modules. How do the differnt number of outs work? Is it cheaper to buy pads and modules sepearate (module/pads etc) as opposed to buying a kit? Where can I find information on what pads/modules work together?

Thanks,
Krystof.
 
Only you can determine if the sounds are real enough for your taste. There are several high end e-kits (Alesis DM Pro, Roland TD10 and Yamaha TDTExtreme) I'm trying to focus on what I think may be cost effective.

The Roland TD6 and the Yamaha DTExpress both have some good drum sounds (I prefer the TD6). Keep in mind drum sound are easier to re-produce since there is a fast attack and decay (easier to sample). Cymbals create a more complex sound and as such the cymbal counds on any e-kit will not be as strong as the drum sounds (most studios that use e-drums still use real cymbals).

Normally it is cheaper to buy a "kit" than to buy pads and module seperate - however the Hart pads and the Pintech pads are lower priced - and could be a less expensive way to go - depending on what module you buy.

The number of outs on a module gives you more options for sigmal routing. If a module has only stereo outs, you do all your panning in the module - and then send a stereo signal to your recording gear. If a module has 8 outs (like the TD10) you can send the snare seperate from the kick, etc. - which allows you to assign different effects to each drum at the console.

Concerning what gear doesn't talk to what gear - I don't know of a specific reference source. I've stumbled onto communication problems through trial and error. I'm sure the specs have "hidden secrets" but I'm not enough of a tech head to comprehend. I do know it involves attack, decay, crosstalk and all the other parameters that convert the analog signal from the pad to the module.

All I can suggest is ask whoever you buy your gear from and hope that give you good info. If I can find anything more specific I'll let you know on this site.
 
Hey mikeh,
Thanks a lot, very much appreciated,
Krystof.
 
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