Progress on 3M M-23

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ofajen

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I recently fired up the old 3M M-23 1/4" 2-track for the first time ever since collecting the pieces a few years back.

I'm kind of amazed, but the transport is working quite well, and the electronics is at least working on playback and signal input. I haven't had time to test the record function, nor to do any calibration. One capacitor blew up on one of the channel power meter cards, but that's it so far and it wasn't hard to replace.

For those who are unfamiliar, the M-23 (400 series) was the first series of 3M machine (after the initial set of about six Dynatrack machines were sold to a few big studios). 3M shot Dynatrack in the foot by introducing the Scotch 200 series of low noise tape about the same time. Studios decided to opt for the new tape and not bother with the complicated electronics of Dynatrack, which worked well, but took two tape tracks per audio channel. Most of the M-23 machines sold were standard NAB machines. The electronics can be easily modified to yield proper IEC1 eq at 15 ips (which is what I do) and AES eq at 30 ips if the machine runs at that speed.

Anyway, the M-23 series uses an old rim drive capstan mechanism to drive the capstan. The capstan motor shaft clunks onto the rubber tire on the outer edge of the capstan flywheel a few seconds after the machine starts up, but the tape is only driven when you push play and the pinch rollers push the tape into contact with the capstan. It's a lot better than you might think from that description, though they did move to a belt drive system with the M-64/M-56 machines (500 series). Mine is a 7.5/15 ips rim drive, but I have the parts to convert it to the later 15/30 ips belt drive at some point.

The M-23 tape drive is the same basic Isoloop used in all the other later 3Ms, where the 2" diameter capstan drives both the incoming and outgoing tape on the loop, using a differential capstan and pinch roller to create tension within the loop.

The M-23 is the best looking of the 3M machines, with chrome-plated trim parts around the Isoloop path, instead of the dull grey of the later machines. Mine is not quite as pretty as it will be, since the transport is still unmounted. I'm going to make custom portable plywood cases for the transport and electronics and paint them black. It also uses the old "one big rack per audio channel" style of electronics and happens to have big 4 1/2" wide Weston VU meters on each channel. Those are true VU spec meters and a delight to use.

Now that this machine seems to be coming together, I've also located a second M-23 2-track machine and the parts that would let me build it up as a portable 1/2" 4-track. I don't have the desire to have a whole house full of tape machines, but I still need to have a few around and I have been wishing I had a portable 4-track M-23 for many years. Mitch Easter has one but has finally decided he will never sell it, so I'm going to have to find another way, and I think I found it this week. Cool!

Having worked some with a digital audio rig for the first time for the last year or so, I still find that I prefer to do a lot of my initial recording on tape. I don't think that's ever going to change, so I'm certainly one who hopes that someone continues to make good tape for sale! The biggest hurdle I have with the digital rig for initial creative work is that it SO wants to put stuff on a grid, while tape has no desire to force me into beat slavery.

Cheers,

Otto
 
More good news:

The record lamps light and the record function works (1K signal tone goes in and recorded signal plays back off the heads at a fairly stable level). I'm hoping to do playback and record calibration this weekend after I modify the rec eq cards to do IEC1 eq. I may have to transfer my 1/4" MRL to an NAB reel. I'm not sure this thing will have the proper vertical alignment on a 7" plastic reel. It has this raised ring on the reel tables that fits just inside the NAB hub diameter, but I think it will mess up the height on small reels.

I also fixed the remaining transport gremlins, including an incoming pinch roller that wouldn't back off far enough to allow proper fast winding without the tape dragging on the pinch roller. You've just gotta love a device where the repair involves needlenose pliers and a utility knife!

I gotta give the 3M guys credit for one thing: their manuals are really thorough. If you stare at them long enough and read everything, you can fix just about anything. They even included a detailed explanation of how each circuit works in the various modes, where they explain how the signal and control voltages, etc. move through the circuitry and operate the transport parts and electronics.

Cheers,

Otto
 
Yes I remember reading about the Dynatrack system in a book by Howard Tremaine. I think it gave about 80db s/n.

I Like the idea of one large capstan shaft with closed loop. Very stable.
Good luck with the restoration.

Cheers Tim
 
Tim Gillett said:
Yes I remember reading about the Dynatrack system in a book by Howard Tremaine. I think it gave about 80db s/n.

I Like the idea of one large capstan shaft with closed loop. Very stable.
Good luck with the restoration.

Cheers Tim

Thanks! It's going great so far. I had to do a lot of little stuff on the transport: rebuild the reversing idler, replace all the relays and some other components on the transport card and there were several non-standard things about the wiring that I wasn't sure about. Without original reel hubs, I had to take spindles from the reel hubs of a spare M-79 and install them on the M-23 reel tables. Turns out that none of those were the problem I feared they might be.

I had JRF relap and align the heads so they should be ready for electronic alignment. I also got the electronics from him, as he had some extras just laying around.

One advantage of the large capstan is that thicker tape usually doesn't proportionally affect the effective radius of the combined capstan and tape (and thus actual tape speed) as much as it may on a machine with a 1/4" or 1/2" capstan (depending on motor type and the means of speed control, of course).

Cheers,

Otto
 
Well, the playback calibrated up to spec, though one channel was down about 4 dB at 20K (spec only goes to 16K, just like my hearing). Even so, my old mix tapes sound awesome on it.

Record calibration didn't go so well, in part because the erase head cables aren't right. I figured this would be a problem... both erase heads wired to one cable and thus one erase amp.

Anyway, I have spare connectors (wired up with cables that are too short) and am trying to disassemble one and wire up another longer cable that I can connect up to the other erase head at the head connector assembly on the deck plate. I'm having a hard time figuring out how to disassemble the connector. It's labelled Amphenol AN-3057-4 on the outer shell. I can get the outer shell backed off onto the cable just fine, but I don't know how the inner piece comes out so I can unsolder the cable. Anyone know how these things come apart?

Thanks!

Otto
 
ofajen said:
I'm having a hard time figuring out how to disassemble the connector. It's labelled Amphenol AN-3057-4 on the outer shell. I can get the outer shell backed off onto the cable just fine, but I don't know how the inner piece comes out so I can unsolder the cable. Anyone know how these things come apart?

Thanks!

Otto

Oops! the 3057 part is just the clamp. Amphenol has separate labels for each part of the connector. The plug is a 10SL-3. It's probably easier just to order a new one and build it up fresh.

Cheers,

Otto
 
Turns out the other machine I thought was an M-23 is actually an M-34. I hadn't heard of it before, but it turns out the M-34 is a military/instrumentation recorder and the heads and electronics are not suitable for audio recording. So that machine won't work as the basis for a portable 4-track audio deck.

However, it also turns out that the guy who explained this all to me has four 2-tracks (an M-23 and three M-64s) in his garage doing nothing, so I may be able to find a machine to build up as a portable 4-track. Those machines also have a relatively new direct drive capstan motor system installed which could be very cool.

Before I can make more progress on my M-23 2-track, I'm going to have to build a better home for the pieces that allows more efficient cable routing. Then I can wire up both erase heads properly and see how close I am to proper specs.

Cheers,

Otto
 
Otto, I must have the same bug as you. Last year I did a complete service and alignment on two old Nagra 4.2's. They now work well.

Will they ever be used again for work? Not sure, but it was great fun working on them and learning about their design.

All the best with the big 3M's. Watch your back!

Tim
 
Tim Gillett said:
Otto, I must have the same bug as you. Last year I did a complete service and alignment on two old Nagra 4.2's. They now work well.

Will they ever be used again for work? Not sure, but it was great fun working on them and learning about their design.

All the best with the big 3M's. Watch your back!

Tim

You can be sure that this machine will see some use here once it's working. It's the only 1/4" 2-track machine here at the moment. I could set the M-79 4-track machine up as a 2-track by simply installing my extra 1/4" guides, but then I can't use it as a 4 track, and that's no good!

Thanks!

Otto
 
ofajen said:
Record calibration didn't go so well, in part because the erase head cables aren't right. I figured this would be a problem... both erase heads wired to one cable and thus one erase amp.

Actually, while I am going to change it so each erase head is driven by a separate erase amp, this is not the problem...

The problem is that the wiring on the connector in the deck plate doesn't match right with the wiring on the head stack plate. One return (ground) lead on the stack plate doesn't have a corresponding connector on the deck plate, so there is no completed path for that channel. Apparently, 3M used a common ground on erase heads on some of the M-23s, but my stack plate is wired up for separate grounds. That doesn't work, of course. Should be relatively easy to fix, but I think it may involve finding an extra female connector insert for a Winchester MRAC connector. Anyone have one of those laying around? ;)

Cheers,

Otto
 
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