Please guys i need help ASAP

  • Thread starter Thread starter LOST ONE
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LOST ONE

LOST ONE

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I've been browsing this forum for a while now and there is alot of people here that know alot about soundproofing rooms i'm getting ready to sound proof a room for my studio i i already bought some 703 owens corwin insulation,acoustical sealant,5/8 gypsum drywall. (i also have auralex foam)

1) before i buy more stuff i need some anwsers please do i need to put the 703 insulation inside the walls alog with regular insulation or on the outside as absorbent pannels?

2) i need to know where i can get 1/2 and 3/8 thick glass for the control room window.

3) what type of door should i buy. where can i buy it and how can i sound proof it

for now i guess this is it if i come up with more questions i'll post tham here thanx in advanced..


I'm located near the Los Angeles area so hopefully you guys know where i can get some of the above stuff locally...
thanx..
 
1) before i buy more stuff i need some anwsers please do i need to put the 703 insulation inside the walls alog with regular insulation or on the outside as absorbent pannels?

2) i need to know where i can get 1/2 and 3/8 thick glass for the control room window.

3) what type of door should i buy. where can i buy it and how can i sound proof it
Click to expand...

1) 703 is used on wall surfaces for absorption. You can use the regular ol' roll insulation inside walls.

2) Try a local glass shop, there should be dozens in your area.

3) You can go double sliding glass doors if you like, or a single or double solid-core exterior door, depending on how much isolation you'd like. This is all standard hardware store stuff; the exterior doors will come pre-hung with weatherstripping and threshold gaskets which work quite well for sound. You can get a solid wood door or the solid core steel doors; the wood looks a lot nicer but is much more expensive. You might want to consider buying a door without holes drilled for a doorknob/lock, and just surface-mount a handle. The weatherstripping usually holds the door pretty tight even without a latch.
 
Hello lostone and welcome to the board. I want to tell you something. There is NO SUCH THING as sound "proof". Only degrees of sound transmission loss through physical boundarys. How, and with what materials, a boundary is built determines the SOUND TRANSMISSION LOSS. Generally speaking, there are only two ways to increase STL. Mass, and decoupling. The best bang for the buck technique for increasing this, is to understand the principle of MASS AIR MASS partitions. Within the AIRGAP, there must be insulation.
A standard residential wall is a M A M partition. These are called Two Leaf systems. You can add mass(drywall) to increase this STL to a point. However, the best thing you can do is to decouple one leaf from the other. This is done in various ways. (1) is to add mass to one or both LEAVES, (2) is to decouple a leaf by removing one leaf, and adding Resiliant channel, and reapply one or more layers of drywall.
The third way, is to actually build a second decoupled leaf(floor, ceiling and walls) which actually is a "floating" room within a room. Expensive, time consuming, requires permits, and is PERMENANT. There is much information here in the archives on this subject.

My best advice to you is to read as much as you can on this subject BEFORE BUILDING ANYTHING. Success is only as good as your knowledge of your target STC, and how you achieve it depends on your understanding of the principles, materials, techniques, skills, and budget. Remember, sound "proofing", is much like waterproofing. Even a 1/32" hole or gap can ruin much hard work. That means SOUNDPROOF ALSO MEANS AIRPROOF. Which in turn means ventilation, which is a conundrum deserving a book itself. There are many other things that determine success too. Like doors, seals, windows, thresholds, registers, grills, electrical and signal chases and outlets, floors, roofs, direct connection to sound sources such as HVAC, environmental connections such as train tracks, streets with Truck traffic, and other physical structural transmission paths, such as people walking on a floor above.
Containment of sound is very difficult under some circumstances. Such as in an apartment, or anywhere permanent construction and altering of the structure cannot be done. In such cases, depending on the db profile(how loud the source is such as a set of drums)it may be impossible. Or where outside environmental noise and transsmission via the structure(like a train) would require MEGA budget and modification of the existing building to such an extent that it is outside of the means of homerecording enthusiasts abilitys to achieve. So........ :D without knowing what your are dealing with, it is IMPOSSIBLE for anyone to give you PRECISE information that will do you any good.

fitZ :)
 
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