Playability of my acoustic guitar

  • Thread starter Thread starter hongteck
  • Start date Start date
hongteck

hongteck

New member
I've always been quite happy with how my acoustic guitar sounds, but I finds it hard to play especially when holding barchords. What DIY modification can I do to the guitar to make it more playable ? Will changing the saddle or nut helps ?
 
I'd SLIGHTLY tighten the truss rod and change to SLIGHTLY lighter strings.These mods have the distinct advantage of being totally reversable if you're still not happy.The LAST thing I'd do is change the nut,unless it's worn out,which it probably isn't.Cheers!
 
Hongtech,
From what you have said. I gather that the strings are far off from the fretboard. Is the neck warped? From the body of the guitar look down the neck and see if it has a "bow" in it. This may be adjusted as mentioned above by tightening the truss rod.If the adjustment does not take the "bow" out you have a warped neck.
If the neck is ok you could try using a lighter gauge set of strings. It won't be as loud but it will make it easier to play.
 
If you're using "light gauge" strings (.010s) you should be about ok. Before tweaking the truss rod I suggest you check your manual (if you have one. you didn't tell us which guitar you have).

I have .010s on my Martin D-15 and it's very playable. I also have 'em on my old Applause AE-28, it has normal relief, low action and yet it's not as playable (easy to fret) even on low frets. That I can't explain.

Anyway, to check the relief on your neck roughly, put a capo on the first fret and finger the last fret on the low-E string. Then check in the middle - there should be slight clearance between the frets there and the string. If that clearance is higher than half the thickness of your low-E string (roughly) then you might fix your problem by tightening your truss-rod, if not - don't even bother. I would also check the high-E string in the same fashion (thinner strings can have lower clearance). If that's not it, take it to a tech and don't forget to ask him to show you - maybe you'll DIY next time :)

Please note that some guitars' manuals suggest fretting the "body" fret or even 12th fret while checking the relief and then looking at clearance above 5th or 7th fret. Also some suggest adjusting the truss rod while tuned at concert pitch, while others recommend loosening the strings and letting the adjustment "settle" for a few hours before retuning.

If your relief is normal and your action is still high take it to a tech and he might adjust the action for you. My Applause even had instructions for removing or adding thin pieces from under the saddle to change action, but I'm not sure every guitar has that.
 
If you have to ask, I'd say stay away from doing anything yourself. You can get a decent tech from a decent shop that specializes in acoustic guitars to do a full setup (nut adjustment, if necessary, fret dress and levelling, truss rod adjustment, and bridge height) for about $35.

It's money well-spent to make sure it plays the best it can, and to make sure you don't fuck anything up accidentally.

CT
 
There can be quite a lot going on at once with a neck, including warping, yielding under tension, and problems with nut and saddle adjustments. We don't know much about the instrument, and without more information, you could easily head in the wrong direction.

Each instrument is unique - even if it comes off an assembly line. Two guitars with the same action adjustment will play differently, especially if they have different gauge frets.

Take this to a tech and be willing to soak up any knowledge that seems up for grabs! It's not expensive and can take you to a new level of understanding about the instrument.
 
Im a machininst and a mechanic and can make
just about anything, but one thing I never do
is screw around with my guitars. I always take them to a professional unless it is something like a swich.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top