Newbie needs help building Vocal Booth

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jointski

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Hello folks. I am new to this forum and was wondering if someone can give me some advice. I am trying to convert my apartment living room into a recording studio. No live drums or anything like that. Just electronic equipment. Ceiling and walls are concrete with parkay floors. I have neighbors above, below and next to my living room. I covered the parkay floors with commercial carpet with compressed padding underneath and I put some of the padding on the ceiling with contact cement (I want to respect the solitude of my neighbors). I have a carpenter who never built a studio before. My plan is to build a floating vocal booth 6 feet by 6 feet (sort of like the box-style ones they sell) and a floating platform for the control area. I also plan on building bass traps for all four corners of my rectangular shaped living room. I have lots of 5/8s sheetrock and 1/2 inch sound board. I haven't purchased any glass for the window or insulation to put inbetween the walls of the vocal booth. Can anyone give me some suggestions on what kind of studs I need (wood or metal), what to join the studs with (I heard you should never used nails), what kind of insulation to buy and also what kind of neoprene I need (I don't even know where to get them). Also what kind of glass and how to adhere it to the vocal booth. Please keep in mind that I don't want the vocal booth attached to the ceiling or the walls of my living room. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
 
Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Stop while your ahead:D just kidding.......
First, by vocal booth, I assume you mean an acoustically isolated and "soundproof" enclosure. So with that in mind, here are some considerations. This is not to tell you how....yet. As you are in apartment, you already are dealing with a handicap. But since you have all ready permanantly altered the finish on the ceiling by contact cementing padding material, which I assume is foam, I also assume you know very little in regards to sound.
I covered the parkay floors with commercial carpet withcompressed padding underneath and I put some of the padding on the ceiling with contact cement (I want to respect the solitude of my neighbors).
What gives you the idea that padding will help the concrete ceiling with its ability to attenuate sound? Foam will do practically nothing to stop sound from transmitting through to adjacent spaces. If anything, it will suck up the high frequencys in the room.

and a floating platform for the control area.
What for? If there are no barrier walls and ceiling, what does it do? Nothing but elevate the engineering position. Lets move on.
Self contained vocal booths assembled in an apartment is a tough proposition, period.
First off, let me say I am no expert. But I do have so info for you to consider.

Many people build and post descriptions here of quasi soundproof vocal booths and are happy with the results. However, IF you are talking about a booth with a sound transmission class appropriate for recording in an apartment, I would suggest you find out from your neighbors if they can hear you in the first place, as you have concrete walls and ceiling, and quite possibly the floor also. If vocal work is the only thing you are trying to isolate, it would seem to me, the appropriate solution depends on how loud the sound is the neighbors are hearing, as well as the environmental noise of your apartment and surroundings.. Does that make sense. In other words, why build a booth with a STC rating of 45, when you only need an STC of 30. It works like this. For EVERY db of isolation increase required, it takes TEN TIMES more ability of the isolation structure to keep sound from transmitting through the booth shell or structurally to and from the room structure.

Here are some of the other considerations.

Weight. vs structural floors. Point loading can create problems as even a 6'x 6'
booth is extremely heavy, and actually could compromise the existing floor structural integrety.
Verify your floor structure and material. It has a bearing on various things. Steel studs are light weight, but sheetrock is not, and if wood stud, floor and ceiling joist construction is used, the weight added is significant. Not to mention the booth floor and exterior sheithing. Add a person who weighs 150 lbs....well, think about it.

Air. Sound proofing is airproofing. Nothing is worse than telling a singer not to breath while they sing. Ha! Therefore, to vent it, you must penetrate the wall or ceiling of the booth, which in turn compromises the STC of these assemblies . To install an interior fan creates noise, and does nothing to bring in fresh air, as a small booth encloses very little air. To correctly duct in an air or HVAC supply and return from within a living room in an apartment could be a very difficult manuver, although not impossible. But damn near impossible if you can not attatch anything to anything within the room. Where would you get the conditioned air in the first place? The only place I can think of is connection to existing systems, OR some sort of unit in the window or mounted outdoors, but you must still duct the supply and or return to the booth. AND the ducts, and registers must be correctly sized, configured and installed so as not the generate noise themself, even for a simple fresh air supply fan. Not an easy task, as in a vocal booth, silence is the point, and if the booth is silent, but the HVAC or air supply is even slightly noisy, the mic will definitely hear it. In large rooms, the registers are usually located at a distance from the mics, so even small amounts of noise from them are usually negledgable.

Heat buildup. People give off heat very quickly in a small insulated space. A box of handiwipes is not an alternative for clients who are paying. HVAC is the key to this issue as well. If this is for yourself only, you are the only one to satisfy.

Construction noise. If you have neighbors who will complain of noise, how are you going to build without generating some.

Doors, jambs, and threshold seals. For any soundproof shell penetrated by ANY opening, the door assemblys create the most difficult challange to seal correctly. A haphazardly installed door assembly can lower the STC of a Rated enclosure by as much as 15 points. Even a properly installed assembly can still negate all other soundproofing assembly, if even 1/16th of an inch of space between jambs, studs are not caulked. Even with trim over the gaps, you MUST caulk. Joints in the sheetrock must also be caulked. The gap between the sheetrock and floor must be caulked before fastening a baseboard. All wall plates and stud to plate connections should also be caulked. And then you get to deal with the glass jamb assembly!!

Vibration isolation. That means decoupling the booth from the floor. Neoprene pads will work. But only if you install them correctly, and if they are "loaded" correctly. That means the right thickness and consistancy.(duro?)

I am not trying to rain on your parade, but the realitys of "soundproofing" are not as easy as some people think. That is IF real soundproofing is "the" critera you are trying to achieve. It is no different than building a small room within a room. Floating the structural floor of the booth takes up vertical space. The ceiling joists and assembly takes up vertical space. If you only have a nominal height of 8', you will soon be down to 7'. Add treatment, and you will even be lower. However. Like I said. Many people are happy with less. Like a frame and blankets. But thats not soundproofing. Some still call it a "vocal booth":rolleyes: I call it a gobo., and thats not saying it is bad. Just not soundproof. I will try and post a set of drawings tomorrow if you still are interested. Other people may also post thier ideas too and or contradict my own. That is good. Helps clarify and solve brain farts:D Anyway, I hope this illuminates some of the problems with real soundproofing. And doing it in apartment makes it even more difficult.

fitZ
:)
 
Thanks for the info. I reason I placed the compressed foam on the ceiling was my attempt to try and keep the sound within my room and not disturb my upstairs neighbor. I am a bit concerned about the weight of say 2 layers of sheet rock, soundboard, insulation, floor and ceiling bearing down on the floor. It is very thick concrete with wood floors on top. I spoke to some engineers who were doing work on the building a year ago and they said that the building is solid with steel frame. Would connecting the booth to the ceiling or wall make a difference as far as spreading out the weight? You are correct as far as ceiling height (8 1/2 ft) and it is for my own personal use. I use small genelec speakers as well as some Fostex studio monitors, so the volume will not be excessively overbearing. My ultimate goal is to make that vocal booth soundproof. My next door neighbor plays her music moderately and sometimes I can hear the highs coming through my dining room wall, but that room is connected with a sliding glass door to the living room. Any plans will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
Also, I will do the old "keep the vocal booth door open until its time to sing" then close it. I did have an idea of putting an air conditioning unit in the window and run small air ducts on the side of the ceiling, then carving out a small entrance in the side or ceiling of the vocal booth. That was just an idea. Thanks again.
 
You'd probably save alot of money and headaches if you just bought a prebuilt one.
 
It appears to me that your primary concern at the moment is really creating an environment for tracking vocals that is isolated enough from the rest of the building to not pick up external/unwanted noises along with your vocals. Is this correct?

I think you can achieve satisfactory resuts without going to major extremes. While everything Fitz said is absolutely accurate, there is a wide range of acceptable compromise versus perfect that can be reached, and you'll be happy with the results. Unfortunately, right now there aren't any "free" plans that I know of for a stand-alone vocal booth (you can purchase a set from www.dawbox.com, though). Design criteria for creating your own needs to include the following:

1. Size of enclosure (6x6 ft, 10x8 ft, whatever).
2. Do you need visual contact between the booth and the control room? This dictates whether you need a window or not (CCTV is also an option). Windows and doors will always be your major problem with isolation between 2 rooms, so the less you have to use them the better.
3. What type of door do you need/want? The best isolation is achieved with 2 sets of doors with an airlock between, but this is not always practical. Sliding glass doors can be used to do this by having the 2 sets of sliders installed such that they are not parallel to each other and, even better, if they have different thicknesses of glass.
4. How much do you want to spend? The sky really is the limit here. If you estimate your materials and labor are going to add up to $2000, it might be worthwhile to look into buying a pre-fabbed kit from www.whisperroom.com. I'm sure you can build something for much less, but I don't know your skill level or whether your friends work for free.


A basic isolation room could be constructed as follows (disclaimer: this is my concept; the experts can pick it apart and correct any problems I may have overlooked, but I know it will definitely be a noticable improvement for you). Avoid using any outside walls that will possibly have noise penetration from the rest of the building for this version. You can build a short floating floor using some type of rubber pads (maybe even hockey pucks) on the bottom, with a 2x2 frame sitting on the rubber pads (Auralex also sells floor isolation things). Be sure to fill the spaces between the 2x2's with rockwool or other high density insulation. Attach floor sheathing to the 2x2's to create the floor. The walls will be constructed from 2x6 upright studs for the outside frame, with 2x4 studs on the inner portions, staggered such that every other board is flush with the inside or outside of the 2x6. Do not attach the ceiling to the existing room ceiling. I would use a simple 2x4 arrangement for the ceiling framing. On the outside of the completed frame attach 2 layers of drywall, one being 1/2" the other 5/8". Make sure that the seams to not run the same direction for the 2 layers. Once the outside drywall is attached, fill the stud cavities with rockwool or other high density insulation, then attach 1 layer of drywall to the inside of the booth. Make sure you accomodate all your electrical needs for lighting and audio/video cabling before finishing this up. Also make sure before you apply your drywall compound that you caulk all drywall corners (floor and ceiling, too) to seal it up. This then leaves the door and any windows to deal with. If you decide to install a window, just make sure that you use 2 individual glass panes that are not parallel to each other and, preferrably, have different thicknesses. For the door, try to get an exterior insulated fire-rated door with seals. This design assumes that you will not install any kind of room ventilation; just make sure the door gets opened every few minutes to refresh the air supply.

Anyway, that's my concept for the least expensive route I can think of to get there. For more information and a larger pool of resources for this, you might want to check out www.johnlsayers.com . His site is all about studio construction, and it has a wealth of information, links to lots of great ideas and educational material, and lots more people whose sole interest is studio design and construction.

I hope this helps out. I'm hoping to do something like this myself in the near future.

Cheers,
Darryl.....
 
Thanks for all the advice. I will pass this on to my carpenter. So far my expense for sheetrock and sound board is under $500. The carpenter is my brother-in-law but I will still pay him a discounted fee. I will check out John Sayers site. Many thanks.
 
Here is a perfect 6'x6' standing wave enclosure:D
No treatment, or exterior shell shown....yet.

fitZ:)
 

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Here is a window detail. There should be the same in the exterior shell.
 

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Here is the a custom door/jamb detail. Note the seals. This would be used IF you had a 3sided exterior shell, with another door to a sound lock on a wall from another room. I'll post a pic of that tomorrow. This is basic plan section stuff. 1/2" and 5/8" Gyp bd on resiliant channel, with R-19. I'll post Vertical and Longitudinal sections later with vent and plenum, electrical, floating details too. Later.
fitZ:)
 

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Although, this is more of what I had in mind.
 

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Here is the custom door/jamb seal for this one.
 

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Thanks all for the advice. The vocal booth is completed and I clocked in at $300 over budget. Not bad considering the quality of what I have. I made modifications to incorporate air conditioning which is the last phase. The interior floor measures 4 X 6 feet with a ceiling height of 7 1/2 feet. Is there a special air conditioning unit that you all use for an enclosure this small and for its quiet operation? I've also heard of people using battery powered lights in their vocal booth. Any suggestions pertaining to the air conditioning and battery powered lights will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
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