New score...perhaps...Teac 3340

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Audiophallic

Audiophallic

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Yeah I finally have some reel-to-reels. Actually, I bought a Teac A-2340RS about a month ago, but it's a 2340. Not really something to brag too much about. :laughings: It is in damn good shape though.

Just yesterday, I drove up to Denver and picked up a Teac 3340, and I have some questions about it.
The Pros: the price...actually, that's about it; guess it should be "the pro."

The cons: take-up tension arm broken off, so I couldn't test transport functions;
-the heads (and I'll explain this more in a bit);
-no NAB adapters, and three of the VU lamps are out;
-take-up spindle seems to grind a bit going counter-clockwise, doesn't seem to go clockwise at all;
-smells a bit like cigarette smoke.



Those last two I didn't notice until after I took it home. Like I said, the price was right.

Question 1: I noticed that there was some uneven wear on the heads, so not only do they need to be re-aligned, but they should probably be relapped, right? And can JRF do both of those?





Question 2: Once that's done, I *was* planning on taking the thing to these guys, because they're about 15 miles from my house (I got that link recently, and I can't remember if I found it on my own, or if someone here posted it). Lucky for me. I'm going to email them and get an estimate to clean it up and get it properly biased etc (actually they do head alignment too). However, if that proves too expensive, I might have to go the Rambo/Sweetbeats route and do it all myself. I've been re-reading some of his epic stories...I don't know for sure if I have it in me, but I sure can give it the old college try!

Question 3: I would sure like to do as much of it myself as I can, and the first thing would be to test the transport functions. Does anyone know if the 2340 and 3340 tension arms are interchangeable? I would just take the one off my 2340RS for a sec.

Question 4: That take-up reel spindle. Is that an easy fix, or are we talking something serious?

Question 5: Does anyone have a PDF for the A-2340RS manual? Can't seem to find it.

Question 6: I noticed two marks on the pinch roller. Anyone know what they are, or if they will affect performance?



Question 7: I noticed a high/low bias switch. Does this mean I can have it biased for SM911 and LPR35, and just switch between them whenever I feel like it?

So, to sum up: I pretty much think getting the heads relapped and properly aligned is a must, unless you guys really don't think I need it. I want it to be professionally biased, and I don't think that is something I can do myself (no equipment at all, and no MRL tape). That's probably going to be costly enough, but should I get the transport functions working first? It might not be worth it, otherwise. Can you guys help me out with that?

EDIT: looks like the lifters need to be rotated too, eh? Not that hard, I'm guessing?

EDIT: When I turn it on, the VU meters barely fluctuate, whereas on my 2340 the meters go to almost to 0 before settling. An issue?
 
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Yeah, so Vintage Electronics got back in touch with me. $225.00 for a Complete Service. TWO HUNDRED AND TWENTY-FIVE!!!! That would be absolutely everything, short of head replacement. I would be so sooooooooooo on top of that. The bad news...they're moving this week. From Florissant, CO, less than 15 miles from my house, TO FREAKING KENTUCKY!!!!! :mad::mad::mad:

:spank: SHIIIIITTTTTT!!!!!!! :spank:

I'm looking around to see if there are any other shops close by, but I have a sneaking suspicion that I won't find one closer than Denver, which is two hours away. I guess I can try to do the majority of the work myself, but I'd like some input from you guys. It would save me having to rely on a crutch, like a service tech, but $225 doesn't sound like a very expensive crutch...it'll cost me at least that for an MRL tape and an oscillator...and the time....

Any help on my questions? Please?
 
Well, I finally got it taken apart, and the damage is a bit worse than I thought. There's something wrong with the take-up spindle...it must be bent slightly. Switching the two front pieces improves it somewhat, but not totally, so I'm guessing that the motor might be bent slightly too? (evidently it was dropped) I really have no idea how to go about fixing this, so I'm going to call the nearest repair guy and get an estimate, I think...
 
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