Mounting DIY absorbers

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pandamonk

pandamonk

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This isn't something I've heard much of around these forums, but what is everyones'/the best method of mounting their diy panels? Especially across corners...

I was thinking of mounting like real traps, but there must be other ways...

I saw that pme records use shelf brackets. This seems like a good idea, but they are a little too visual for my liking...

I was thinking of hook and eyes, such as this, but obviously bigger and stronger...

Any other methods?
 
There's dozens of ways. If your panels have a wood frame you can simply hang them on a nail like a painting. Just make a picture frame out of thin wood and glue the fiberglass onto that. Cover with fabric and hang.
 
TexRoadkill said:
There's dozens of ways. If your panels have a wood frame you can simply hang them on a nail like a painting. Just make a picture frame out of thin wood and glue the fiberglass onto that. Cover with fabric and hang.
Click to expand...
With string or wire? I'm planing on selling a few, so i want them to look good, even the backs... :p

Also, you'll need to have a fixing into a stud or strapping on a standard stud wall, won't you?
 
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I've been wondering about this for a while. Right now, mine are still freestanding gobos, but I'd like to get a few mounted soon. I might do a french cleat, or a modified version of one. The top piece of wood is fixed to the item, and the bottom is fixed to the wall. They're super sturdy, and make for an easy on/easy off option. And with a little foresight, they can space the absorbers away from the wall a bit. Here's a picture of a random french cleat, courtesy GIS.

drawer005.jpg
 
That's a good idea for absorbers along the wall etc. I am going to mount my bass traps across the corners in my studio this weekend hopefully, I will let you all know how I accomplish this.
 
andyhix said:
I've been wondering about this for a while. Right now, mine are still freestanding gobos, but I'd like to get a few mounted soon. I might do a french cleat, or a modified version of one. The top piece of wood is fixed to the item, and the bottom is fixed to the wall. They're super sturdy, and make for an easy on/easy off option. And with a little foresight, they can space the absorbers away from the wall a bit. Here's a picture of a random french cleat, courtesy GIS.
Click to expand...

yeah, i've seen those too. sort of what I was talking about above, just didn't know the name of it.
This also allows you to shift them around horizontally along the wall if you want.
 
pandamonk said:
With string or wire? I'm planing on selling a few, so i want them to look good, even the backs... :p

Also, you'll need to have a fixing into a stud or strapping on a standard stud wall, won't you?
Click to expand...

You can use wire or hang them right off the wooden frame. A framing nail in drywall, no stud needed, will support a 1 1/2" thick 2'x4' panel easily. A static load doesn't really need a lot of support. Most of the fancy hanging systems are WAY overkill.
 
TexRoadkill said:
You can use wire or hang them right off the wooden frame. A framing nail in drywall, no stud needed, will support a 1 1/2" thick 2'x4' panel easily. A static load doesn't really need a lot of support. Most of the fancy hanging systems are WAY overkill.
Click to expand...
What about a 2" or 4" panel?
 
bennychico11 said:
yeah, i've seen those too. sort of what I was talking about above, just didn't know the name of it.
This also allows you to shift them around horizontally along the wall if you want.
Click to expand...
oh yeah, I guess I didn't click your links before. I built a cable rack/panel thingy that's hung with a french cleat and it's sturdy as hell.
 
Ive been thinking about a base made of wood screwed to the stud on wall. But on the base have a metal shop bend a U shaped piece of sheet metal with tabs to screw in the wood base. On the absorbant panel back attach another U shaped piece of sheet metal to hook on the base mounted to the wall. Ill try and draw something.
 
I think this is an appropriate hijack - Someone remind me again - 2" rigid fiberglass for 1st reflection points. Do I want them flush against the wall or with a gap behind them. What's the recommended gap? 2"?
 
andyhix said:
I think this is an appropriate hijack - Someone remind me again - 2" rigid fiberglass for 1st reflection points. Do I want them flush against the wall or with a gap behind them. What's the recommended gap? 2"?
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Either is fine. And any gap...
 
TexRoadkill said:
Not a problem. Even 3" 705 can be held up with a nail.
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Cool, I'll give it a go, once i get the studio done.
 
homestudioguy said:
Try this: http://mysite.verizon.net/homestudioguy/id31.html
In the corners use maybe 2" X 8" ? (or whatever it takes to get the panels out far enough to cover the corners appropriately) instead of 2" X 4".
BG
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It looks good, but I'm looking for something more discreet. I'll experiment. I've got loads of time to, before I'll be ready to build the panels.
 
I used some hooks and eyes, into wood frames around 4" worth of 3#/sf fiberglass. Covered on one side with natural musiln.

Part of the adjustment involved turning the eyes in and out of the wood to slightly adjust the width and height.

The hooks were from either lowes or home depot, and had toggles to screw through and support on top of the drywall.
 
Obi-Wan zenabI said:
I used some hooks and eyes, into wood frames around 4" worth of 3#/sf fiberglass. Covered on one side with natural musiln.

Part of the adjustment involved turning the eyes in and out of the wood to slightly adjust the width and height.

The hooks were from either lowes or home depot, and had toggles to screw through and support on top of the drywall.
Click to expand...
Yeah, i thought of this. How'd it work? Does the drywall support the weight. What are thse toggles like?
 
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