Master tape Vs. Fake?

  • Thread starter Thread starter _DK
  • Start date Start date
_DK

_DK

New member
Is there a way to tell a master tape reel (i.e. a 30 year old 7 1/2 ips reel with a live soundboard recording from 70s) from a digital source recording on an old tape? One person has offered me to buy a tape like that, and I said that I'll pass...but what if it was a real one?

And my other similar question was: are there any techniques of finding out if a tape is a master or a copy of a master? Because I've got some of my friends master tapes from early 90s and some are copies. They're not labeled and he obviously doesn't remember which is which. I know that the general rule is to pick the better sounding tape, but they sound the same to me or my ear could be not as good. Should I compare the output frequencies? Any better way of doing that?
 
_DK said:
Is there a way to tell a master tape reel (i.e. a 30 year old 7 1/2 ips reel with a live soundboard recording from 70s) from a digital source recording on an old tape? One person has offered me to buy a tape like that, and I said that I'll pass...but what if it was a real one?

And my other similar question was: are there any techniques of finding out if a tape is a master or a copy of a master? Because I've got some of my friends master tapes from early 90s and some are copies. They're not labeled and he obviously doesn't remember which is which. I know that the general rule is to pick the better sounding tape, but they sound the same to me or my ear could be not as good. Should I compare the output frequencies? Any better way of doing that?

This has been an area in forensic science for many years, relating to whether an evidence tape is an original or the evidence within it has been edited and copied to distort the truth etc. The only way to edit it is to make an edited copy of course, so establishing if it is a copy can be very important to its value as a piece of evidence.

Repeated and careful listening should usually tell which is the copy. But from my experience, some people dont hear differences unless they are really obvious.

The extra distortions that are likely to be in a copy :

Increase in harmonic distortion, tape hiss, and tape dropout (instantaneous reductions in output) are obvious ones. Intermodulation distortion is where one frequency, such as a bass guitar, "modulates" the rest of the mix so that the mix "vibrates" or gurgles in time with the bass's fundamental frequency. Often a compression of the dynamic range due to tape saturation on the copy, usually accompanied by the increase in harmonic distortion.

Another is azimuth error. Especially if the source tape was replayed/copied from another machine, rather than the one it was recorded on, there may be a reduction of high frequencies but also a "drifting" effect where the highs and even the mids are not true and there's a kind of "comb filter effect" where only certain frequencies are reduced. A bit like with a vocalist singing into a mic off axis.
An increase in wow and/or flutter, meaning slow or fast variations in the speed and tempo, often very minor.

Sometimes also there's the presence, or just an increase, in mains hum. If there was hum on the original, you sometimes get a doppler effect (beats, pulsing) between that hum and any introduced hum from the copy machine.

It's important that the machine you replay the tapes on is also a high quality
type and in very good condition. Otherwise the faults or incompatibilities in that machine may so compromise the audio as to blur any audible difference between the two taped versions. Ideally the machine's play head azimuth should be carefully adjusted to the actual recording's azimuth pattern. Equally that the tapes' track configuration be established eg: half track, quarter track, full track and the tape played on the appropriate machine. Otherwise the fidelity will be compromised.
Obviously the monitoring amps/speakers/headphones should be of good quality.

Just a general but not necessarily huge reduction in fidelity is what you are looking for.

A good example in a commercial recording is the classic 1966 Beach Boys "Pet Sounds" re-release CD which unusually has on the one CD both the original release master tape version and a new remix which goes back to the multitrack tapes from which the mono master was made. Even though the newer remix is in stereo while the original release master is mono, it's not too hard to detect in the mono version:

more tape dropout, tape hiss, intermodulation distortion, noticeably the bass line of the rest of the mix, and even, on the first track "Wouldnt it be nice", a mains hum, just in the quiet introduction.
Pet Sounds won huge praise on the strength of the mono version which is a copy or a copy of a copy. Today we can hear it clearer and in stereo simply because the original tracking tapes survived.

You seem to be suggesting someone might have made a digital copy of a recording, copied it onto an old reel to reel tape and tried to pass it off as an authentic original recording. That might be hard to tell unless you have something to compare it with. I'd be listening to the tape for signs of an old recording that wasnt totally erased and that might give some clue as to whether the recording is genuine or not.

If the recordings are at all valuable they should be treated carefully. Later 70's tapes may have sticky shed problems and if so probably shouldnt even be played before checking them for this and possibly baking them as per standard procedure. We could point you to more information on this.
If unsure, the safest way may be to put the tapes in the hands of someone who does this work all the time, such as Richard Hess. Just Google in that name and you should find him.

my 2 cents' worth.

Tim
 
Wow, thanks for taking time to answer. :) I'll pay more attention to the things you've pointed out.
Yes, I'm familiar with baking the sticky tapes, but that one didn't have that problem.
 
The best way to tell if a commercially released reel-to-reel tape is authentic is if it’s sealed. Short of that there is one thing that will point to something being recorded from a CD… the steep high frequency roll-off at 20 kHz. If it suddenly hits a brick wall there it indicates the source was a CD. 30 years ago there was no good reason for steep filtering during mastering. When filters were used they had very gentle slopes.

Where it gets tricky is if the frequencies of the original were rolled off at some point bellow 20 kHz. Music has been mastered so many different ways over the decades; one would need to have information of how that particular recording was made.

It was fairly common for a master to be prepared for vinyl even if there was to be a reel-to-reel release. But since this wasn’t always the case, there are no hard and fast standards you can count on. Thus, you may have an original tape with high frequencies gently rolled off above 18 kHz and lows rolled off at below 50 or 60 Hz. Or maybe not.

An authentic reel-to-reel release at 7.5 ips with no EQ hocus-pocus can have harmonics present at 25 kHz and above. This would seem to cinch it, but it’s never that easy. A really good forger could use an Aphex Aural Exciter or Alesis Micro Enhancer to synthesis upper harmonics not present on the CD.

So you can see how tricky it can be. The first step in analysis is to look for the steep high frequency drop above 20 kHz. If it doesn’t pass that test your done. If it does past that test you’ve only begun.

As for trying to determine which unlabeled tape is the original and which is the backup… that’s tricky too. However, from a practical sense the one that sounds the best with the fewest dropouts and the best high frequency content is the winner.

A backup tape can end up sounding better than the original over time, as the original may have been used more, stored improperly, or been recorded on tape that doesn’t retain the highs as well in storage.

As a practical example if my original 15-year-old master was recorded on Ampex 456 and a backup of that was made on AGFA PEM 468, I would generally choose the AGFA copy to work with… provided there are no major issues with the tape like dropouts, etc.

Whatever you decide, be sure to demagnetize and clean your tape path regularly so you don’t do any further harm to the tapes.

~Tim
:)
 
Thanks Tim,
By the way, why not always use SM468? That's what I've usually done on my 1/4" Fostex, and now found 1/2" for the 38. It's available at the same price as Quantegy. I don't mind very small distortion on the highs.
 
No reason at all. SM468 is a great tape. On a machine biased for 456 it will indeed have a little more high frequency sizzle than if you biased the machine for 468. Even biased specifically for 468 the highs will be brighter and stay that way over time. It’s a super mastering and archiving tape. :)
 
Back
Top