I've used a jack (or plug, depending) fastened into an electronics vise for years - when doing a few dozen or a few hundred cable ends, it's so much faster to just plug the connector into the vise-mounted jack, not to mention the minimising of repetitive stress from tightening and loosening the vise 100 times.
I would recommend sn63 solder though, it's eutectic because of the 63% tin so it flows better and gives better consistency of connection quality.
When you're just ready to solder, first wipe the tip of the iron on a damp sponge to clean it, then touch just a small dab of solder to the iron. When you touch the connection with the iron, make sure that dab of solder contacts the metal part. It will transfer heat much quicker due to the solder "wrapping around" the connection, so you can get the connection hotter, quicker. This will melt the solder you are holding against the connection OPPOSITE where the iron is touching more quickly, so you can remove the heat sooner, causing less deforming of connector insulators and less melting of wire insulation.
You want to hold the tip on the connection until the CONNECTION is melting the solder, that way you know it won't be a cold solder joint. Once the solder flows into the connection, hold the tip on it for another second, then remove the heat and DON'T TOUCH THE CONNECTION OR WIRES OR ANYTHING for at least 6-7 seconds. That will ensure that you don't move the connection until the solder is cool enough not to fracture.
Congrats Tex, you finally found a good use for Behringer stuff that didn't require a Hazmat permit - now that you're a qualified recycler, if you can just help me figure out a good use for dog shit, broken shoe laces, used band-aids, AOL subscription CD's, and hemmorhoids... :=) Steve
