Low/high pass filter for bass cab.

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AMcB

AMcB

Why you gotta be so mean?
Im lookiing for a lowpass filter at about 150hz for my 115 cab and a high pass at about 150hz for my 410 cab. Just a cheap one, something I could mabye put in the line of the speakers. Kinda like bass blockers for car audio. Is there such a thing for that high of wattage? Just some sort of passive cossover. Thanks!
 
Im lookiing for a lowpass filter at about 150hz for my 115 cab and a high pass at about 150hz for my 410 cab. Just a cheap one, something I could mabye put in the line of the speakers. Kinda like bass blockers for car audio. Is there such a thing for that high of wattage? Just some sort of passive cossover. Thanks!

A question? Why not run both full range? I know 1-15 x 4-10 combos have been sold and used with that configuration -10's as a 'high box, but typically 4-10's will have more low end headroom than the 15. Putting it all on the 15 restricts your total cone area where you need it the most.
I'm assuming here the 4-10 cab is 'full range -ie not restricted frequency by design?
 
The 410 we down to about 80hz and the 115 goes to about 40hz. I don't want to have to buy a bass head. Or a 2way cossover for a pa. Just like a cheap solution, like a online crossover, like pa speaker have, just at 150hz. It doesn't have to be adjustable. Thanks for the replies!
 
The 410 we down to about 80hz and the 115 goes to about 40hz. I don't want to have to buy a bass head. Or a 2way cossover for a pa. Just like a cheap solution, like a online crossover, like pa speaker have, just at 150hz. It doesn't have to be adjustable. Thanks for the replies!
How is getting a crossover going to keep you from having to buy a bass head?
 
How is getting a crossover going to keep you from having to buy a bass head?

.... Mostly because I already have a head:D I just dont want to have to buy a NEW head.;)
 
.... Mostly because I already have a head:D I just dont want to have to buy a NEW head.;)

Sorry, but I am still confused. How is a crossover going to turn what I assume is a guitar head into a bass head? Bass heads are full range (as are most bass cabs); there is nothing intrinsically different between a guitar head and a bass head except that bass heads are usually more powerful because it takes more power to push a lot of SPL at low frequencies. A crossover is not going to address that; neither will it enable you to get more low end volume out of your guitar head before the onslaught of breakup/distortion. Perhaps if you explained what you are trying to do and why we can be of more help.
 
Sorry, but I am still confused. How is a crossover going to turn what I assume is a guitar head into a bass head? Bass heads are full range (as are most bass cabs); there is nothing intrinsically different between a guitar head and a bass head except that bass heads are usually more powerful because it takes more power to push a lot of SPL at low frequencies. A crossover is not going to address that; neither will it enable you to get more low end volume out of your guitar head before the onslaught of breakup/distortion. Perhaps if you explained what you are trying to do and why we can be of more help.

LOL. It's not a guitar head. I am using a crown ce2000 with a art prochannel as the amp. I want a crossover that will splitthe signal so 150hz and below does to the 115 cab and 150hz and above goes to the 410 cab. I just want a set crossever that I can put in the line of the speaker, so idont have to carry an extra price of equipment around (like a crossover) thanks.
 
LOL. It's not a guitar head. I am using a crown ce2000 with a art prochannel as the amp. I want a crossover that will splitthe signal so 150hz and below does to the 115 cab and 150hz and above goes to the 410 cab. I just want a set crossever that I can put in the line of the speaker, so idont have to carry an extra price of equipment around (like a crossover) thanks.

Oh, I think I see. The 410 cab is not a bass cab, so you want to protect it from the low end. That makes sense, though it really has nothing to do with the head at all; bass heads are full range (except for a few that have biamp capability built in). To protect that cab you'd need a Xover even with a (normal, non biamped) bass head.

All you really need, though, is a blocking cap for the 410; there's no real down side to sending the full range signal to the 115. You could mount a blocking cap in series with the speakers inside the 410 and not carry anything extra.

OTOH, if the 410 is a bass cab, you don't need either a Xover or blocking cap; just plug and play.

IIRC, the formula for the blocking cap is:

C = 1/2(pi)Rf = 1/2(pi)(8)(150) = ~133uF, assuming 8 ohms for the 410 cab.

Get as close to a 133uF bipolar electrolytic cap as you can find with plenty of voltage tolerance, or you could use 3 47uF's in parallel to get 141uF (which is plenty close enough) - I believe that 47uF is a standard size. I've done this to block low frequencies from stage monitors and it works just fine.
 
Oh, I think I see. The 410 cab is not a bass cab, so you want to protect it from the low end. That makes sense, though it really has nothing to do with the head at all; bass heads are full range (except for a few that have biamp capability built in). To protect that cab you'd need a Xover even with a (normal, non biamped) bass head.

All you really need, though, is a blocking cap for the 410; there's no real down side to sending the full range signal to the 115. You could mount a blocking cap in series with the speakers inside the 410 and not carry anything extra.

OTOH, if the 410 is a bass cab, you don't need either a Xover or blocking cap; just plug and play.

IIRC, the formula for the blocking cap is:

C = 1/2(pi)Rf = 1/2(pi)(8)(150) = ~133uF, assuming 8 ohms for the 410 cab.

Get as close to a 133uF bipolar electrolytic cap as you can find with plenty of voltage tolerance, or you could use 3 47uF's in parallel to get 141uF (which is plenty close enough) - I believe that 47uF is a standard size. I've done this to block low frequencies from stage monitors and it works just fine.

The 410 is a bass cab, I just want the seperation. Lol. Why do you assume guitar? Where would I find those? Do I just wire it in with the speaker? Thanks.
 
The 410 is a bass cab, I just want the seperation. Lol. Why do you assume guitar? Where would I find those? Do I just wire it in with the speaker? Thanks.
The interesting thing- and might lead one to think 'guitar cab also, is that it takes a lot of cabinet' to do the bottom few octaves in proportion to mid/highs. Ie, the reason (relatively speaking again :)) the need to lug that kind of size around is- 30 -- 100 (+/-
The Peavey 1-18 x 2-10 for example.

You could try this out, split at line level instead of at the speaker at the pre amp out and feed the Crown high side' with one of these.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_069900076/F-MODS-100-Hz-high-pass.html?tp=117
(Can't say as to their quality but they may do fine.
'Low pass versions also there..
Having dual channel is cool as it will let you pad down the high cab to help balance them if need be.
 
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The 410 is a bass cab, I just want the seperation. Lol. Why do you assume guitar? Where would I find those? Do I just wire it in with the speaker? Thanks.

I assumed a guitar cab because you want to cross it over, otherwise, there's no real need to do that. Is there some specific problem that you are addressing, or does it just seem like a good idea? My bass rig has 2 10's and 1 15, all full range, and it sounds just fine to me.

Anyway, if that's what you're set on doing, you can get caps at any good electronics supply house, and maybe even at Radio Shack. Or just google "electrolytic capacitors"; you'll find lots of places on line that sell them.

Yes, you just wire the cap(s) in series with the speaker input. You can wire it up with male and female cord-mounted 1/4" connectors (what I did), or you can install it/them inside the cab in series with the speaker array.
 
Just forget the crossover idea. Take it from a bass player, you're wasting your time. Run both cabinets full range the way they're -made- to be run. Use the tone controls on your instrument. Play closer to the fingerboard or closer to the bridge. Learn to make the sound you want rather than adding a load of extras to your circuit.
 
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