just a quick question

  • Thread starter Thread starter thane1200
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I bought 2 packs of that stuff

I doubled it up and left some air gap behind.. I have my entire ceiling done with that and it works great IMO.. No complaints here!!

That said, be prepared for a dozen or so people to chime in and tell you it's crap, worthless and don't buy anything except 703 rigid fiberglass..
 
That said, be prepared for a dozen or so people to chime in and tell you it's crap, worthless and don't buy anything except 703 rigid fiberglass..
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Naw, you got it all wrong. It's not worthless. Makes a great bed for a pet rat. :D
 
Well, its crap *IF* its not fire resistant.

Other than that, I have no issues with foam other than to say this:

Foam generally does very little for lower frequencies, and practically nothing for sub harmonics, regardless of thickness, which is why a lot of us harp on this subject to death.

Rigid fiberglass on the other hand is a more dense material than foam, and also because of its construction (fine glass strands) therefore the bass frequencies get trapped better due to reflections between the fiberglass strands, creating more friction which lessons the power of the sound wave. Higher frequences don't have a lot of energy as compared to lower frequencies. This is why bi-amped speakers often have larger amplifiers for the bass drivers than they do the midrange or tweeters. Passive crossovers in speakers do the same - the bass drivers get typically 70% of the total power coming in.

Anyway, that's how acoustical absorbtion materials work - dampen sound through friction against the sound wave.

And this is not to say there is anything wrong with acoustical foam - there isn't - just like any tool it has a purpose, and does that purpose well. The disconnect I often see is peopel indiscriminately believe foam is the answer to all their acoustical problems and often that's not the case, because the problems of a smallish, rectangular room often isn't high frequences - its bass and sub harmonics.

Would you use a hammer, to drive screws? Or a chainsaw to drill holes? It's just using the correct tool for the job, that's all.
 
frederic said:
Well, its crap *IF* its not fire resistant.
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It is. Flame Specifications - Class B, California 117 flame retardant, self-extinguishing


Also the portability of those small squares seems to be a good idea for now, seeing as I move frequently. How easy is it to build/move large fiberglass panels ?
 
thane1200 said:
I know, I know......

You are all sick of these questions by now, but I will make it as painless as possible.


Is this a good deal?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3780499297

YES [ ]
NO [X]

thanx for your time

PS. Not looking for sound "proofing," just a little wall treatment to minimize reflection.
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Thane,

My issue with this company's products is that the test results they publish is not for their product.

They appear to have stolen the data from the Auralex Tests - and their foams and the Auralex foams are not the same products, by this i mean they are physically 2 different materials.

I have looked in depth to find out where their tests were performed - without any luck - the numbers are basically identical to Auralex - and they have not answered many requests for this info.

In as much as they cannot match the Auralex test results (impossible to be identical results with different properties) their product in it's entirety is to be suspect.

You would be much better suited purchasing the "Real Macoy" from Auralex to make certain you get the results you expect.

NOW - with all of that having been said, I too believe that foam is one part of a treatment plan - and is not in and of itself - the complete solution.

This is (however) partially dependant on what exactly your problem frequencies are and what treatments you really need.

One thing I feel the need to ask is this "How have you determined what in fact you need?"

Rod
 
still learning....

Rick,

I have not yet determined exactly what I need due to lack of info/knowledge of the subject. I do however realize that acoustic foam is not the answer to everything. Right now I am weighing my options; trying to learn about acoustic treatments, wall angles, isolation and such. With my limited budget and frequent moving in mind, I am trying to decide what material(s) have the most benefit/cost ratio. I you take a look at the lay-out I previously posted (on the studio building/display thread) https://homerecording.com/bbs/attachment.php?attachmentid=13229&stc=1 you will see that the space is small and has a closet, door, window, and fuse panel that have hard smooth surfaces that reflect a lot of mid-range Hz. I have yet to notice any severe low Hz reflections or vibrations. the room is in a basement and fairly isolated from other rooms and sound sources. The bleed-through to the upstairs is negligable, however the low ceiling causes some over-head "distortion." All walls are painted sheetrock. If anyone actually reads this and wants to chime in, please do so.

Thanx
 
if you're room is a little boomy now, which I imagine that it is due to size and hard surfaces, adding foam is just going to make it worse - by eating all the highs.

You're going to spend a few hundred dollars just to be pissed at the results!

Making a fiberglass panel is easy.. get some furring strips from a home center, and nail or screw together a 2'x4' frame, staple fabric over the back, pack in the fiberglass, and stretch more cloth over the front, around the sides, and staple to the back.

Then hang it like a picture frame with a finishing nail, or stand in the corners of the room.

You can also just wrap the rigid fiberglass with the fabric like a pillow. If you have a jo-ann fabrics near you as I do, walk through the store all the way to the "el-cheapo-discount-cotton" section, and buy cheap cotton fabric for about a buck a yard. You might have to sift for a while to find stuff thats not a pink paisley, heh-heh.

Any fabric store really, just get a thin fabric that's dirt cheap that you like. I snagged a roll of dark green cotton fabric for my fiberglass panels, 75% off the already discounted price - so I paid about 60 cents a yard. I just grabbed the whole roll - hey, why not.
 
what kind of 'glass?

Ok, sounds simple enough, one question though; I'm used to using fiberglass strands and matting along with fiberglass resin to make custom automotive interiors. this is NOT what you are talking about right?

PS. must give 'props' to frederic for his DIY spirit. Lead on brutha!
 
Hello thane1200. No problem. Frederic is talking about RIGID fiberglass. Owens Corning 703 is one type. There are others to. It comes in thickness's from 1/2" up to 6". Usually 2'x4' panels. There are tons of threads on this subject. Just do a search.
fitZ
 
RICK FITZPATRICK said:
Hello thane1200. No problem. Frederic is talking about RIGID fiberglass. Owens Corning 703 is one type. There are others to. It comes in thickness's from 1/2" up to 6". Usually 2'x4' panels. There are tons of threads on this subject. Just do a search.
fitZ
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THANX! I'll check it out.
 
thane1200 said:
Ok, sounds simple enough, one question though; I'm used to using fiberglass strands and matting along with fiberglass resin to make custom automotive interiors. this is NOT what you are talking about right?

PS. must give 'props' to frederic for his DIY spirit. Lead on brutha!
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No, that is fiberglass mat, which I also use for interiors and body panels and such. Its not a good insulator by itself since the resin turns it into a stiff, reflective board more or less.

I'm talking about Owens-Corning 703, which is called "rigid fiberglass" which is kinda misnamed. Its much stiffer insulation than the rolls and batts of fiberglass insulation you'd purchase at a home center, probably about as stiff as styrofoam I guess. You can hold it out and it will retain shape, but you can bend, tear, crease it fairly easy.

And thanks for the "props". If you think my studio is DIY, you should see some of my other projects ;)
 
Corning 703?

I visited the Owen Corning website and found no products associated with the number 703. I found what look like rolls of semi-rigid fiberglass insulation, but I'm not sure. All of their products had an R-# number which I assume is a thermal efficiency rating. Does anyone know where I can see a picture of this stuff? I'd really like to see what it looks like before I buy some.

-Thanx
 
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