Jay Turser Bridge

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bozmillar

bozmillar

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I just bought a Jay Turser SG knockoff. I adjusted it so that it feels nice, but I have one beef with it. The tune-o-matic bridge has a couple loose saddles.

My choices are:

a) Stuff something in there that keeps it from rattling. I haven't been successful in doing this. Anybody have any ideas?

b) buy a new bridge. Are these fake tune-o-matics the same dimensions as a real one? Will I have to drill new holes and stuff to get a good one on there? or is it the same?

any other suggestions will be helpful (not including buying a new guitar).
 
Why is it rattling? It shouldn't. There should be no loose parts there, especially once it is strung up and under tension. Can you pinpoint exactly what is rattling?
 
the saddle of the low E string sort of rocks on the screw. I'm not sure of all the correct names of the parts, but basically it doesn't touch both sides of the little groove that it sits in. It really only wobbles when I play hard. I can wiggle it with my fingers quite easily.

Not sure if that made any sense.
 
Do you mean the saddle rocks in the bridge or the string moves in the saddle slot? Assuming the saddle is where you want it for correct intonation and action, have you tried seeing if the adjustment screw is pulled up tight in the thread of the saddle? If yes you should return it. You can pack it out but as it's a new, at least to you it should be right. That shouldn't happen if the saddle and bridge are set right.
 
yeah, the saddle rocks in the bridge.

Shipping and returning it would cost more than the guitar is worth. Plus I've put quite a bit of work into it to make it feel the way I like.
 
bozmillar said:
yeah, the saddle rocks in the bridge.

Shipping and returning it would cost more than the guitar is worth. Plus I've put quite a bit of work into it to make it feel the way I like.
Click to expand...

So have you checked that there is no slack on the thread?

If so, is the stop bar to high. You need a bit of break angle on some of them. Lower the stop bar a bit.

Are you 100% convinced it's the saddle thats rattling? Although not that uncommon it's not the first thing I'd suspect. As I said string tension is usually enough to stop things like that.

What action do you have? Are you using drop tuning? More info
 
muttley600 said:
So have you checked that there is no slack on the thread?

If so, is the stop bar to high. You need a bit of break angle on some of them. Lower the stop bar a bit.

Are you 100% convinced it's the saddle thats rattling? Although not that uncommon it's not the first thing I'd suspect. As I said string tension is usually enough to stop things like that.

What action do you have? Are you using drop tuning? More info
Click to expand...

I am 100% convinced that it's the saddle, because I can wiggle it with my fingers.

From what I can see, the saddle has three points of contact with the bridge

1) the screw
2-3) the points where the saddle lies in the groove.

Because the screw doesnt' move, this seems to leave little room for error to make the other to points make contact at the same time. It's kind of like a teeter totter.

Standard tuning. The dropbar is as low as it goes. I'm just not sure if this is a problem other's have run into or if I just got a screwy bridge.
 
bozmillar said:
I am 100% convinced that it's the saddle, because I can wiggle it with my fingers.

From what I can see, the saddle has three points of contact with the bridge

1) the screw
2-3) the points where the saddle lies in the groove.

Because the screw doesnt' move, this seems to leave little room for error to make the other to points make contact at the same time. It's kind of like a teeter totter.

Standard tuning. The dropbar is as low as it goes. I'm just not sure if this is a problem other's have run into or if I just got a screwy bridge.
Click to expand...

If what you say is correct, and you've tried what I suggested re- the thread of the saddle screw and break angle, then you have a dud.

No they are not necessarily interchangeable. Take it to a tech.
 
muttley600 said:
If what you say is correct, and you've tried what I suggested re- the thread of the saddle screw and break angle, then you have a dud.

No they are not necessarily interchangeable. Take it to a tech.
Click to expand...

Emmm, don't shoot me for saying this, but given that it's a cheap guitar and everything....

Guitarist magazine had a suggestion about rattling bridges a a year or two ago. They said that clear nail varnish will lock saddles in place firmly enough to stop them rattling. Significantly, the bond is so loose that if intonation needs to be altered in the future, a turn of the screw will break the dried varnish.

Obviously, this could be bullshit, but is it at least worth suggesting?
 
Measure the distance between the posts. You will probably be able to find a good one to replace it. I'd recommend the Tone-Pros version, which is very nice and locks tight to the posts. They make several different versions, and one of them is probably what you need. You can get all the sizes from either Allparts or WD.



Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
I second the vote for the tone-pros. I put those on a Hamer goldtop. Very nice indeed. Between the Graphtech bridge and the locking height adjustment set screw, they really blow the doors off the stupid "vintage" style bridge that it originally came with.
 
The nail polish seemed to do the trick pretty well. How much do these tone-pros bridges go for?

I guess I can look that up myself
 
My Sparrow wasn't Cheap"...same prob.
I build guitars but no spare TOMs around!!! SHIT!!!! Gig T'NITE!!!

Household cement from the dollar store. The stuff doesn't bond SHIT but it's good enough to pour on rattle-y bits to secure them fer an evening or two and still peel it off.

Don't confuse it with 2-part epoxy though.:D
 
32-20-Blues said:
Emmm, don't shoot me for saying this, but given that it's a cheap guitar and everything....

Guitarist magazine had a suggestion about rattling bridges a a year or two ago. They said that clear nail varnish will lock saddles in place firmly enough to stop them rattling. Significantly, the bond is so loose that if intonation needs to be altered in the future, a turn of the screw will break the dried varnish.

Obviously, this could be bullshit, but is it at least worth suggesting?
Click to expand...

Thats not a fix really. It may get you through a gig or two. A bit like the super glue in the nut slot trick. Best to get it sorted once and for all. Dount get any on the finish if you do try that.
 
Addressing one of your other questions, yes Turser builds most of their stuff to spec from Gibson, Fender, etc. I sold them in a shop for about a year and sure enough, a customer came in with this problem. He had purchased an expensive replacement bridge from MF or somewhere. It fit becuase that's how Turser makes it's money. From what I know, they buy the specs from the big companies, send em to China and piece them together with the cheapest stuff around. Good guitars if you ask me. I owned the 335 knock off for awhile. These are all good suggestions and I would try them first, as Im sure you already have. If it comes down to it, a gibson bridge will fit - if you want to shell out the cash.
Good Luck
 
Hey, thanks for the info. Good to know that if I need to, I can get a real bridge for it someday.

The nail polish worked for me because I don't play gigs. Plus my kids use my guitar as a trampoline, so I'm not going to get anything expensive on it yet.
 
bozmillar said:
Hey, thanks for the info. Good to know that if I need to, I can get a real bridge for it someday.

The nail polish worked for me because I don't play gigs. Plus my kids use my guitar as a trampoline, so I'm not going to get anything expensive on it yet.
Click to expand...

Whaddya know? Seems I'm not totally useless 'round here. :D
 
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