Ideas?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ford Van
  • Start date Start date
Ford Van

Ford Van

Banned
Okay, I bi-amp my bass setup. I want to be able to distort JUST the high cabinet, and also do effects on it.

I need a device that:

1 - Is line level. (since it will go between the High output of my preamp and the input of my power amp)

2 - Has TRUE BYPASS MODE that you can select via a midi program change (via my ADA MC1 controller)

3 - Has distortion, and possibly other effects.

I have to say again, the unit MUST HAVE TRUE BYPASS. If you don't know what that is, well, you wouldn't have anything for me anyway! ;)

I could settle for a foot switch bypass function, but it sure would be a lot cooler if that could be controlled via midi.

Any ideas?
 
the problem is that a "true bypass" is done with a hardwired switch.... you might be able to do something with relays and a footswitch.... or settle for a setting with all parameters zeroed and be glad it works at all....
 
dementedchord said:
the problem is that a "true bypass" is done with a hardwired switch.... you might be able to do something with relays and a footswitch.... or settle for a setting with all parameters zeroed and be glad it works at all....
Click to expand...

There is no reason that true bypass cannot be done via a midi command. The extra parts in a device would total maybe $5!

All parameters zeroed will not do!

Still looking for ideas. Again, a foot switch bypass would be fine. But, the unit needs to work at line level and have true bypass.
 
I'm really no help, but why not just put a Keeley modded distortion pedal on the high channel send? I am a firm believer in the KISS principle - and that would be a pretty bullet proof setup. I uses to do that with a HM-2 and a WAH so I could play Anesthesia........No true bypass, but it still worked well - Keeley mods all his pedals for true bypass now.
 
There are digital switches, but I don't think a purist would consider them true bypass. I just peeked at one datasheet for a $1.50 part that was -90dB crosstalk and 0.1% THD+N. You don't really need true bypass on a line-level signal, unless what you are really trying to bypass is crappy A/D/A on the DSP . . . but that would beg the question of why you'd want the DSP in the first place . . . and that would be a strange marketing point for the product: our box has true bypass because the wet side sucks real bad!
 
a controll voltage and a 4066 biquad switch??? wont pass alotta level but might cut it... but i would favor a dual pull relay of some kind...
 
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