I just had a revelation

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werewolf831

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here's the deal.
I record on an Alesis Adat, digital, at 20 bits.
I use an analog mixer, mackie 1604 vlz.
I use rca cables to run from the mixer to my computers soundcard for mixdown. I use the audiophile 24/96 soundcard.
the soundcard will accept up to 24 bits of info.
BUT
My recording and editing software (Goldwave) accepts at the highest-cd quality, or 16 bits. It doesn't let me choose 24 bits.
Now lately I've been reading about dither (I've been reading about it for 2 years but it's just now starting to make sense to me). And I'm thinking "I'm cramming a 20 bit medium straight into a computer that only accepts 16."
Now I'm paranoid. Have I done wrong? I'm listening to some of my mixes, and I think I'm hearing some funny stuff now. And recently I used a 16 bit adat tape (it's al our music store had) and once I mixed down to my computer, it just seemed more crisp and clean to me. Not significantly, but noticably. Could it be because I wasn't truncating the extra bits using the 16 bit tape?
Sorry for the long post, I meant to be brief.
werewolf
 
If you're running into the analog ports on the Audiophile, then you're not losing any bit resolution because it's all analog. No dithering or truncation is happening. You are running one extra A/D and D/A conversion, however.

It certainly might benefit you to look into some better software. Goldwave is nice at the extreme basic level, but you'll run into its limitations very quickly.

Slackmaster 2000
 
duh, I should have realized that. Thanks Slack!
I understand Goldwave is pretty basic, could you recommend a strp up? The only other editing program I know much about is Sound Forge. You also mention I'm runing another A/D, D/A conversion. Is this bad?
Thanks,
werewolf
 
"Is this bad?" Generally, yes.

If your source is digital tape, transfer it to the computer digitally, and you'll have a perfect copy of it. And the tracks will have only been converted once, from analog to digital by the DATs a/d converter.

If you use the analog outs on the DAT to the analog ins on the Audiophile, you're essentially converting the track to analog with the DATs d/a converter, then taking that audio signal and re-converting it to digital using the audiophile's a/d converter. It will sound somewhat degraded compared to a digital transfer due to the extra conversions adding noise/DSP quantization.
 
Analog to digital and digital to analog conversion is really the root of it all when we talk about digital recording. It's why one soundcard sounds great and another soundcard sounds like crap. It's why one CD player sounds good and another sounds like junk. It's why a lot of engineers spend thousands upon thousands of dollars on high end converters. It's why many people claim that digital may not ever truely be as good as analog. It's why when you playback something on your system it doesn't sound as good as when you were actually playing it.

Any unnecessary conversion should be avoided if possible. In your case it's necessary and thankfully you have a fairly decent soundcard.

In regards to software, sound forge is definately a step up from goldwave.

Slackmaster 2000
 
I respectfully disagree gentlemen. I ran ADATs and now an HD24 and track and mix just like Mr werewolf and that's the way I prefer it. I don't feel my sound is suffering.
 
Nothing to disagree with...if that's the way you do it then that's the way to do it. I simply said that *unnecessary* conversion should be avoided...for instance if he were just "copying" audio it would make more sense to try to rig up a digital connection...since he's mixing with an analog mixer using the computer as his master recorder, conversion is just going to be a part of life.

Slackmaster 2000
 
Track Rat said:
I respectfully disagree gentlemen. I ran ADATs and now an HD24 and track and mix just like Mr werewolf and that's the way I prefer it. I don't feel my sound is suffering.

But you have real good converters though, hey? ;)

I sure wouldn't do it with MY shit-ass converters. But they're kind of an embarassment. :D:o :D
 
werewolf831 said:
I understand Goldwave is pretty basic, could you recommend a strp up? The only other editing program I know much about is Sound Forge.

Sound Forge is a good program. I would recommend that you also check out cool edit pro at www.syntrillium.com. You can download a 30-day demo that is full featured except for saving mp3 files. This would give you good editing for single sound files *and* introduce you into the world of multiple tracks in the digital world with plugins, full automation, etc.

-lee-
 
For the record, you CAN record at 24bits with goldwave ... that option just doesn't appear in the new file dialog window. What you do is save a bit of silence as 24bit, and then use that as the base wav for recording new songs. It worked pretty well for me, anyway.
I finally upgraded to WaveLab and am still learning it .. but I got a LOT of mileage out of the $30 I spent on goldwave. It's a nice little app if you're just getting started with editing.
 
So how do you store a 24 bit wav. file if your editing program doesn't provide that option?
I think I'll try the demo for Cool Edit. I just need something easy to learn. I thought Goldwave was pretty simple.

So any suggestions on how to get around D/A conversion? I'm guessing I need to get around the mixer I'm using somehow.
Thanks for all the great advice!
werewolf
 
werewolf831 said:
So how do you store a 24 bit wav. file if your editing program doesn't provide that option?

File -> New ... choose CD quality (16bit), make it about 5 minutes long

File -> Save As ... make the file name "24bit" and change "file attributes" to "24 bit, stereo" click Save

when you want to record a new 24bit file,
File -> Open ... and open the 24bit.wav file

Record as necessary.
File -> Save As ... different file name, same attributes.

There ya go ... 24bit recording in Goldwave. Repeat the last 2 steps as needed. This always worked with my version of Goldwave ... yours may be different, I guess. If so, then screw it.
 
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