How the heck do I get this mic apart???

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jdmcgee

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I just got a brand new Nady TCM-1050 for my son... I want to put a good tube in it but I can't get to the guts?!?!? I'm assuming I need to unscrew the bottom ring (like on many other mics) but it will not budge. Am I right in thinking this is how you get a TCM-1050 apart?? I've tried everything I could think of short of some Vice-Grips to unscrew it.

Any tips or ideas??

Thanks,

jd
 
I don't know about that mic. But my STO-2's tend to unscrew at the XLR connector. If you have higher end cables/connectors with the little groove, you can just twist it and it unscrews. I only figured this out after they got loose after bouncing around in the trunk one weekend.
 
The bottom ring is the key to the whole thing...I had allways guessed that a 5 year old in a chinese factory tightened these...they couldnt be that hard to untwist...lol.
 
It definitely unscrews at the bottom. My advice would be to wrap it in a damp towel and twist, or use one of those rubber jar openers. Looks like a fan belt on a stick. Also, you could try one of those tools you use to remove a car's oil filter.
 
Pipe wrench and a vise...remember righty loosey...lefty tighty...it is chinese after all.
 
I always heard it was right to tighten, left to loosen.
 
Modding my NADY1050, the electronics seem to be the easy part.
OTOH > Having a TERRIBLE time getting the old 1050 capsule out of the basket.

In doing my mods, I went to unscrew the capsule/basket and it wouldn't budge. Anyone have any ideas?
I tried various jewelers screwdrivers WD40, tapping screw with a hammer, etc. and finally ended up 'rounding off' the screw-head (to my dismay)!!!!

I then tried drilling a similar sized hole on one side and prying out the original screw (to where I can
see the grille on the other side), and it still won't budge. (as far as I can see) No part of the screw is still within the original hole.

Is the capsule-assembly supposed to simply slide out? That's what the online picts seem to indicate.

(getting REALLY frustrated).

Ideas?

TIA,
therm
 
For a while there I actually thought you were the same guy that started this thread, and after almost 3 years were still trying to open this thing :D

Anyway I think you need to do some more drilling in and around the screw..
 
WoW still at this one huh? Look HERE that guy's name should help you.

The basket could very well be soldiered on and will have to be unsoldiered to remove.
 
There is a mis-alignment of the frame bottom threads and the threaded ring. I've had a number of them arrive at my shop like this. The only way I could remove the bottom ring was to cut a slot into the ring, pry it apart slightly and turn at the same time.

You will not get it off with a pipe wrench or vise as this only exacerbates the friction between the threads.

Good luck! M
 
Nah... I just started trying to mod these; I know a lot about tube amps, apparently not much about 'mechanical advantage', of which I have none.

So, dummy that I was, I figured that the single screw next to the basket cage was the only screw that had to be removed. Turns out, that not only that one; the other two on the mounting-plate must come off. I thought those were connected to the mounting pedestal within the cage; LOL - live and learn. Hopefully, my mental sloth helps someone.
At least I know that someone's listening to this thread.

Anyone besides Brian Fox tried graphing the response curve of BV11Ps vs. Cinemag 2480s in this circuit? Or have any thoughts on that?

I'm interested to build two of these and try not only quantitative, but qualitative comparisons of the two, with different circuit mods.
 
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