Tubedude, it is indeed a fact. As to the issue of "is it worth it?" I don't know? It depends on how bad you want the increase in transmission loss. However, it is essential to become aware of many things. Like precision layout and fastening for starters. The principle is de-coupling the gyp board from the studs. ONE screw through the gypbd that mistakenly is threaded into a stud, now negates the use of RC, as now the vibration has a path directly to the structure. Have you ever seen it. It is a formed sheetmetal "channel", whereby one flange is fastened to the studs, and the gyp bd is fastened to the other. There are "relief" slots that allow the sheetrock to vibrate, without transmitting it to the studs. Hence the name, RESILIANT channel. But before you go jumping into this project, consider this. There are MANY little details to be worked out prior to its installation. Doorjambs, HVAC ducting decoupling from grills, electrical outlets, lighting and room treatment devices that you WERE just planning on hanging on the wall. Whats the point of going to all this trouble just to negate the benifits by failure to understand what you are getting into. What about the ceiling juncture. Are you using RC on the ceiling too? Another consideration, is the OTHER side of the walls. AND the wall cavity itself. What type and installation of insulation also has a bearing on your STC goals. Another is how many layers of gypbd the sequence of installation, orientation of layers, sealing each layer etc etc. Trim around doors cannot be nailed. Neither can baseboard. Many many little details and I mean details to work out. Since you are increasing the thickness of the wall, your old door jambs become useless. What about the joints at the jambs themself. Get my drift? Every single one of these can lower your final STC. Another thing is the "weak link" WHY put all this effort into building a rated wall assembly, only to install a door/jamb/assembly that has a lower rating. EVERYTHING has a bearing on the ability of the rc to do its job.
So I suggest you go here and do some reading to arm yourself with info. This is only two pages of many to investigate. They have a wealth of info, if you dig deep enough. Another thing, IF you are planning on hiring this work out, YOU have to become the one to DEMAND adhereance to these principles, otherwise, contractors unfamiliar with the demands of studio soundproofing techniques can easily negate all your hard earned dollars. BE AWARE OF WHAT THEY ARE DOING. Well, theres my .02, even thou I said I wouldn't offer an opinion anymore, that was for acoustical threads. But again, heres my disclaimer. I"M NO EXPERT. But these people are.
http://www.usg.com/Design_Solutions/2_3_4_acoustictips.asp
http://www.usg.com/Design_Solutions/2_3_7_insulationperf.asp
fitZ
You know on second thought, just go here to Steves forum. He has it all there.
http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=598
