Help--Wall Construction

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JPickman

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Hello....I am in the process of getting ready to start building. Do to space limitations......I am going to go with single wall construction....Please look at this to tell me your thoughts and if there is a better route to go? PLease look at picture for more info:

I am going with 2x4 wood stud with mineral fiber insulation....

on the live side from outer layer to stud:


1/2" Sheetrock-RC1-Celotex Sound Stop-3/8" Sheetrock-Stud

On the Control Room side from in to out:

Stud-3/8" Sheetrock-Sound Stop-1/2" Sheetrock...


Does this sound good to you guys or is there a better way to go?
 

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P.s......Also I was told just to use RC1 on one side of wall not both...if this is incorrect....let me know...Thx!
 
Sounds good, on the live side though I might be inclined to go:

1/2" Sheetrock-Celotex Sound Stop-3/8" Sheetrock-RC1-Stud


This creates one large wall of mass that the sound has to travel through.



Perhaps someone with more experience than me will chime in :D
 
Lunatic is right - NEVER put RC between layers of panel. The correct sequence is to put the RC on the studs, then sheet rock, then celotex, then sheet rock.

When you use RC BETWEEN layers, you make a triple leaf wall (mass, air, mass, air, mass) the board on one side of the studs is one mass, the air between is a spring, the board on the other side of the studs is the second mass, the rc is another spring, then more board (mass)

This actually LESSENS the sound proofing compared to putting ALL the layers of board together.

Also, don't forget to make marks you can see AFTER the panels are in place, where each stud is located (like on ceiling and floor) so you can AVOID those places when screwing the layers of wallboard onto the RC - you do NOT want any screws lining up with the studs, since any screw that touches the stud after passing thru the RC will SHORT OUT the floating effect.

Mount each successive layer at 90 degrees to the previous, so you have no parallel cracks to leak sound, and caulk everything you do with high grade non-shrinking permanently flexible silicone caulk - if it won't float, it ain't soundproof... Steve
 
If you're concerned about getting the resilient hung right, you could consider a staggered stud wall of 2x4's on a 6" sill . You could eliminate the RC and it would add only 1" to the overall thickness of the wall proposed wall. Without going back to check exact figures, I'm pretty sure a staggered stud wall with the same layers you have listed can give you about the same STC as using resilient channel and IMHO is a lot easier to work with than worrying about getting all those layers hung on the resilient right. ( of course, it's not as hip sounding as having floating walls!) This also makes for a deeper inner wall cavity which, I believe I've read is considered benefical.

I have both types of walls in my control room- resilient on exterior walls and staggered interior walls. I can't honestly say if one is more effective than the other, although the staggered stud wall is easier to deal with. For instance, If i want to drywall screw a guitar swing through the sheetrock layers directly into a stud ( some of you just shuttered... OK, I caulked it too) I know I'm not grounding out the floating wall. And what about hanging any of those wall units like Johns? You can't do this easily on a floating wall. Something to consider...

DAN
 
Ok...thanks for the help guys...


ok....So i have narrowed it down to three things

1) 2x4 stud wall with RC1 on the live side with sandwiched Sheetrock/SoundStop/Sheetrock and sandwiched Sheetrock/SoundStop/Sheetrock on the control room side...


2) Staggered Stud Construction with sandwiched Sheetrock/SoundStop/Sheetrock on both sides...

3) Ripped 2x4s to make two 2X2 walls with an air gap in between of 1" with sandwiched Sheetrock/SoundStop/Sheetrock on both sides...

Anyone have any comments on which one to use or on something that would work better and be able to conserve space?


Thanks for everyones help,
PickMan
 
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