Gluing down bolt-on necks...

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miroslav

miroslav

Cosmic Cowboy
Is there any real downside to gluing down a bolt-on neck?

I know the idea behind bolt-on is that it's cheaper to make, and if ever the need came up to replace the entire neck...it's easy to do.

But the ability to replace a set-in neck is almost non-existent without some serious hacking...and yet, that's never been an issue, as lots of guitars now go with set-in necks...both inexpensive and expensive ones.

So...with some older (and current - like Fender) guitars that come with bolt-on necks...if the neck is straight-n-true, and without issues...is there any downside to gluing it down at the joint (along with bolting it in)?

Reason I ask...I've noticed that some bolt-on necks can "snap/twitch/pop" at times when playing a bit vigorously...or even with climate changes, so why not just dab some Elmer's in there and create a nice, tight joint?
 
miroslav said:
So...with some older (and current - like Fender) guitars that come with bolt-on necks...if the neck is straight-n-true, and without issues...is there any downside to gluing it down at the joint (along with bolting it in)??
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A properly fitted bolt-on neck joint will not be improved with glue.

You will murder the resale value.

On some guitars gluing in the neck will make truss rod adjustments difficult.

miroslav said:
Reason I ask...I've noticed that some bolt-on necks can "snap/twitch/pop" at times when playing a bit vigorously...or even with climate changes, so why not just dab some Elmer's in there and create a nice, tight joint?
Click to expand...

With some shims and sandpaper you can often correct the problems of "snap/twitch/pop" you refer to. This is my preferred method.

To answer your question though. You can glue down the neck if you want. If you do it right you won't hurt the sound. Use the yellow (aliphatic resin) glue rather than good old white Elmer's. Do Not Use Epoxy!!!
 
I've always thought about this myself. I just assumed the neck pocket with a bolt-on neck isn't big enough to get any benefit from gluing in the neck. The contact area between the body and neck is still small.
 
A good set neck has wood on wood contact on 100% of the mating surfaces. You just ain't going to be able to do that with a preset bolt neck. At best you'd get two of the surfaces to mate. There is no "advantage of a set neck over a bolt on neck if they are done correctly. If you glue onto the already finished surface of the neck and pocket you may as well use butter as you adhesive.

If you are hearing strange noises from the neck pocket on a bolt on the solution is NOT to glue it down it is to correctly set the neck in the pocket and lock it down.
 
Greg_L said:
I've always thought about this myself. I just assumed the neck pocket with a bolt-on neck isn't big enough to get any benefit from gluing in the neck. The contact area between the body and neck is still small.
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You don't need a huge amount of surface area it's far more important to have well mated surfaces.
 
Milnoque said:
With some shims and sandpaper you can often correct the problems of "snap/twitch/pop" you refer to. This is my preferred method.
Click to expand...

Yeah...I tried that...a few different ways...and after putting on the neck and removing it about 5 times…I gave up. It seemed the more I tried to find a shim to stabilize it the worse it got. Mind you…it wasn’t really moving…but if I flexed the neck a bit while playing more vigorously…there were small “cracking” noises. I have a couple of other guitars that have bolt-on (same make/model) and they never had the problem.

I ended up putting a thin layer of glue (Elmer's...too late...didn't have any yellow wood glue :) ) just where the neck actually contacts the pocket...
....which was only at the base, heal and about a 1/4" of the bottom/side edges. The pocket has a thin lip around the base...so the neck doesn't actually touch at every single point around (as Muttley was saying).

It solved the problem perfectly. I think if I wanted to pop it out, it would come loose with a little effort, as I didn't glop on huge amounts of glue to completely fill out every nook--n-cranny of the pocket, but I have no intention to ever remove the neck again, so it is what it is.
I considered the "resale value" aspect...and decided that was less of a concern than the "cracking" noises when playing it.

I let it sit overnight put the strings on it...it's hasn't had any effect on the sound of the guitar.
 
muttley600 said:
You don't need a huge amount of surface area it's far more important to have well mated surfaces.
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So do you think a bolt-on neck with perfect mating surfaces is as good for sustain and resonance as a set neck with perfect surfaces?
 
Greg_L said:
So do you think a bolt-on neck with perfect mating surfaces is as good for sustain and resonance as a set neck with perfect surfaces?
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That depends entirely on what you define as good. They would be different to some degree, exactly how much is impossible to tell. There are a ton of other factors that would likely override any small difference on an electric guitar. My gut instinct would be that sustain wouldn't be any less if you set a bolt on neck but it's totally unpredictable.

To understand changes in resonance you'd have to calculate how much string energy is lost to that part of the neck and how much would be reflected or have it's harmonic envelop altered as a result in both scenario's. Not easily done.

The only real experience I have of set necks on bolt on style guitars are on a bunch of tele's I've done. They definitely have a different sound but are still very much "tele" sounding and without any noticeable increase in sustain or decay. I put it down to the pickups and general mass and timber characteristics rather than the neck joint. TBH set neck vs bolt on is not a major consideration for me when choosing electric guitars.
 
It probably depends on the tape.

I've heard that duct tape has better sustain properties than gaffer's tape...
...but it's a BITCH to remove! :D

Scotch tape would be better if you want it to have a more transparent effect on your tone. ;)
 
Sheesh! What a bunch of noobs! It's an "electric" guitar so you have to use black "electrical" tape. :rolleyes:

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muttley600 said:
If you glue onto the already finished surface of the neck and pocket you may as well use butter as you adhesive.
Click to expand...

I tried that, but the butter melted and mixed with the talcum powder, and now my guitar is a gooey mess :(


On the plus side, it's delicious! :D
 
Greg_L said:
So do you think a bolt-on neck with perfect mating surfaces is as good for sustain and resonance as a set neck with perfect surfaces?
Click to expand...

I certainly don't understand the science behind all this like someone like Muttley, but I've got about 20 electric guitars--more bolt-ons than set necks. And in the past couple years, I've built a few myself. I've now got two electrics that resonate and and sustain uplugged--like acoustics. They're obviously my favorites for just picking up and noodling without an amp. And they're both bolted on.

The really funny thing is that the best of them is my homemade tele--the body is really light--it's easily the lightest electric I own. But unplugged it resonates and rings like nobody's business. Others pick it up and can't believe it.

So yeah, I'm convinced that a bolt on can really deliver. There's obviously more at work there, and I got really lucky with my build.
 
I don't like bolts mainly because the heel is not as comfortable, but somehow both of my electrics are bolts . . . it does make it quite a lot easier to work on the electronics though . . . so I just never play much above the 15th fret, that solves that problem :o
 
Gaffer's tape ftw.

Pack voids as necessary with talc, as Mutt said.

If disassembly is necessary, remove the glue residue with WD-40. :)
 
Couldn't you dunk the guitar in the tub with warm water for a couple few hours...that should loosen up the glue. :)
 
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