Fostex E-16- I need help

  • Thread starter Thread starter calvirgil33
  • Start date Start date
C

calvirgil33

New member
I just bought a used E-16 with very low hours on it for $250, but before
you get excited for me, it has transport problems, but I bought it anyway, and I will attempt to fix it.
The take up reel (right) does not turn and take up tape when in "play"mode.
In fast reverse mode, the left hub spins beautifully, but if I try to fast forward,
the right hub spins for a few seconds and stops. All mechanical parts are
squeeky cleean and hardly used, I am thinking it is electrical.
Any suggestions?
 
calvirgil33 said:
I just bought a used E-16 with very low hours on it for $250, but before
you get excited for me, it has transport problems, but I bought it anyway, and I will attempt to fix it.
The take up reel (right) does not turn and take up tape when in "play"mode.
In fast reverse mode, the left hub spins beautifully, but if I try to fast forward,
the right hub spins for a few seconds and stops. All mechanical parts are
squeeky cleean and hardly used, I am thinking it is electrical.
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Open her up and check your drive belts. Sometimes what looks squeeky clean on the outside is pretty dirty inside. Especially if you got it used. If the belts are ok, you may be right about something in the motors that turn your reels.
But check inside.
 
Make sure...

if there's an "EDIT" switch or button, that "Edit" is OFF. Edit mode would prevent the takeup reel from spinning in Play mode.

Other: Make absolutely sure that the tape is threaded correctly. You'd be surprised how often this is the cause of malfunction, to the analog newbie. :eek:
 
Thanks Reel- all other switches are off.
I am getting tape in a few days. Is it possible that there is a tape sensor
that, when tape is threaded correctly, allows full function of the unit,
and if there is no tape thrreaded it won't work?
 
calvirgil33 said:
Thanks Reel- all other switches are off.
I am getting tape in a few days. Is it possible that there is a tape sensor
that, when tape is threaded correctly, allows full function of the unit,
and if there is no tape thrreaded it won't work?
Click to expand...
A friend of mine has an old (from the early 70's) Tascam 1 inch reel to reel that does that. The take up reel doesn't turn unless the tape is threaded to it. That may be the problem. Were you running the machine prior to this with any tape on it? Or were you just trying it without the tape?
 
thanks, and yes my first reel of 456 is coming with a take up reel,
so I can see if that's the problem.
It is a direct drive, so no belts. I opened it up, everything is sparkling clean.

Also, do you have opinions about Dolby C. This unit has built in Dolby C.
 
calvirgil33 said:
thanks, and yes my first reel of 456 is coming with a take up reel,
so I can see if that's the problem.
It is a direct drive, so no belts. I opened it up, everything is sparkling clean.

Also, do you have opinions about Dolby C. This unit has built in Dolby C.
Click to expand...
It's pretty good noise reduction. You want to use it. Not while you are recording, though. But when you mix down.
Yeah, check out the take up reel when you get your tape. If it's still doing it, I'd try to find an authorized dealer or someone to fix it. But I believe it to be the lack of tape that is causing it not to turn.
I've been proven wrong in the past, however, so take my advice for what it is....
And good luck with your new toy! :D
 
Well,...

First, the best and most valid test is with a reel of tape, correctly threaded as I pointed out before.

Next, you may fool the reel drive control that it has a tape loaded, by lifting the right tension arm lever, just upward to it's mid-point of travel. Note, the right hand tension arm has an auto-shutoff sensor at the bottom of it's travel. Lifting the RH tension lever defeats this switch.

Third, the Dolby C that Fostex employs on all it's decks is adequate NR, although I'm partial to dbx/Tascam, with all other things being equal. However, any NR such as Dolby C (& dbx) is meant to be used on the recording and playback side of the equation, both.

Dolby C: it's built in: use it.:eek:
 
Reel, just out of curiosity, why would you use the noise reduction while tracking? Doesn't it take out some mids and highs? Just curious, because I track everything without it, and emply a noise gate when I mix.
Thanks. I know I'm kinda jacking his thread, but I wanted another perspective on this.

Rokket
 
That's just how it was designed, & how it was intended to be used.

Dolby C is supposed to emphasize the highs & mid-highs on recording, and de-emphasize the highs & mid-highs an equal amount during playback, thereby diminishing tape hiss in the process. That's by the book, anyway.

I'll agree, that any Dolby NR (A, B, C) does a less than stellar job of eliminating hiss while leaving the original audio unadulterated, & that's why I prefer Tascam/dbx, but that's another post.

I'll have to admit, that on my common household cassette decks, I'll typically record WITH Dolby C (on) and playback WITHOUT it (off), but that's just a personal preference, and is not "by the book", at all. In my experience, with Dolby C engaged on cassette recording AND playback, it does seem to sap a lot of the highs out of the playback,... more than would warrant for nominal tape hiss reduction.

Our friend has an E-16 w/Dolby C, and that's not too shabby for starters, but I'd still recommend the Dolby C is left ON during recording and playback. That's by the book.

However, as with anything like this, Dolby C NR is highly dependent on proper calibration of internal levels, for optimum performance,... and that's where a lot of real-world recorders fall short. Typical home recording analog setups are almost never calibrated, in their entire service life. Why that is, is probably more of a socioligical question than a technical question.

BTW, any other record/reproduce system and NR system will also perform to it's optimum when the internal record/reproduce levels are calbrated to spec. However, that's hardly ever done,... unless you're a hardcore DIY'er like me, or if you have a pro service technician calibrate the recorder for you.

I'm heavily weighted in Tascam/Analog with dbx, but I'll admit to having a few Fostex/Analog recorders with Dolby C, plus a few token analog/digital hybrid porta-format recorders.

Rokket, I didn't catch what your main recorder is at this time? Thanx.

=============
Bottom line: I'd advise the E-16 user to record/playback with Dolby C engaged. Thx.
=============
 
Ps:...

Using a "noise gate" as "noise-reduction" on mixdown is fodder for a whole other post.

Not to repeat myself ad nauseum, but I'd recommend the E-16 user to record & play back with Dolby C NR engaged, the whole time. That's how it was designed, intended to be used, and how it will yield the best results.
 
thanks reel, I will probably use Dolby C during and after recording,
and like you for years i have been recording cassette's with Dolby C
on and then turn it off during playback, I like that high end that I just tweak a little
with the treble knob.
For the record, I have a Yamaha 4-Track with DBX, and it sounds unbelievable,
much better than any Dolby C I've used.
I will try it with the E-16,which is built like a tank, but I cannot seem to find a mint, transport deficient
16 Track Tascam for $250!
 
Yeah, thanks for the lesson, Reel. I am using an MR-8. I have a Fostex X-12 and a Tascam MF-PO1. Of the two analogs, I like the Tascam more. It's got a warmer tone than the Fostex. The MR-8 was a gift. I've been using the hell out of it, doing my mixing on PC. I usually record my drums and guitars on the Tascam, then import them into the MR-8, as it gives the digital tracks some analog warmth. I am going to go completely analog when I build my home studio. I like the ease of digital, but I prefer the sound of analog.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top