Dwarfs studio pt. 2

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dwarf

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Ok the frames are up and now comes the time for decissions and what not.

First of the dimentions of the room are

14FT Long
10FT Wide
2.4m high (sorry about the meters for the roof no idea what it is in feet)

ok we have the frames up and this is what we are intending to do.

*this is my interpritation of a drawing that my dad just condured up

Ok (this is my 3rd try at explaining this)

On the shed we have nailed chipboard
We then have an airgap of 120mm
Then the frames (with chipboard on the backside making the airgap as mentioned above)
we are then going to fill the frames with insulation
Then add a layer of "soundproof" gyprock

I can try and post pictures and diagrams if needed.

anyway back to my initial question, WILL THIS METHOD work in stoping alot of the sound that i am making in there, i am aware that it won't be compleatley soundproof but near enough is good enough, just so that it's not really that distinguishable to my neighbours. I will have a drum kit and numerious amps in there so it's going to be loud.

Now to my 2nd question, with the dimentions of my room what can I use to acoustically treat the room, my initial thought was carpet but i was told it only effects the high frequencies.

I thank you for anyhelp you can offer

Dwarf.
 
Ok it's

2.4m high or 8 feet
4m long or 14feet
3 m wide or 10feet

I rounded these figures off if it is neccecary for them to be exact I can redo them.
 
anyway back to my initial question, WILL THIS METHOD work in stoping alot of the sound that i am making in there, i am aware that it won't be compleatley soundproof but near enough is good enough, just so that it's not really that distinguishable to my neighbours. I will have a drum kit and numerious amps in there so it's going to be loud.
Click to expand...
In plain english, no. First off, "a layer of "soundproof" gyprock" is a joke and if they advertize it as that, they should be sued. :mad: For your information, there is NO SUCH THING AS SOUNDPROOF. To illustrate, park a Boeing 747 50 meters from your shed and listen to the "soundproof" gyprock become a screendoor. :rolleyes: See what I mean. How bout this. Hang TEN layers and explode a 500lb bomb a half mile away. It will make a joke out of the term "soundproof". Now, do you understand? It is RELATIVE, so how can anyone call something....ahem....soundproof? Ever been 20 feet from a lightning bolt? Try to isolate THAT!!! :rolleyes: :D Soundproof indeed.

In real terms, the ability of an assembly to resist the TRANSMISSION of sound energy, is its TRANSMISSION LOSS, and is a RATING given to it by testing labratorys. It is RELATIVE to the source db profile(sound level on one side), its frequency, and the distance to the measurement device on the other side of the assembly, and in your case, the distance to your neighbors and the transmission loss in THIER building. For instance, IF, you are playing drums, and your envelope allows a 50hz sound(bass) to transmit through the envelope and at 10 meters away(your neighbors wall), it measures 60db but their wall/roof assembly has a transmission loss(TL) of say 25db...then guess what? They're gonna hear it! :eek: Typically, rock drums can produce 110db impact sound, and amplified bass instruments generate low frequency which transmit through normal residential walls like they were fabric. Which I'm sure you are aware of, or you wouldn't be trying to isolate them.

What I'm trying to tell you is this. LOW FREQUENCY and IMPACT noise(bass drum and amplified bass instruments are the DEVIL to isolate. Even somewhat. Therefore, the ONLY answer is to build an ENVELOPE with a LOW FREQUENCY TL that is substantial enough to meet your goals, or you are wasting money and time.
In simple terms, what this translates is MASS , and lots of it. However, simply adding successive layers of mass is a butal lesson in physics/diminishing returns. :eek: :p The real key is DECOUPLED MASS in a MASS AIR MASS(two leaf) envelope. However, for anyone on a forum to tell you HOW to acheive your EXACT requirement is rediculous. For one, we know close to ZERO info about your set of conditions. From what you HAVE told us, anyone with half a clue to the nature of transmission, would tell you what I did. NO, it sounds like it will NOT succeed.
For all we know, your neighbor is 3 meters away, and you play HEAVY METAL. Even with a 4 layer MAM envelope, it MAY not succeed either. That is the problem. So tell us everything you can about your set of circumstances and maybe we can help IMPROVE your chances of success. All I do know at this point is my intuition tells me this assembly you are building will fail miserably. Sorry, but thats my .02
fitZ :(
 
Easy Rick.... you're too young for a Coronary! ;)
He said:
i am aware that it won't be compleatley soundproof but near enough is good enough,
Click to expand...
 
You are a man of absolutes... I can respect that.... :D
 
"near enough" just enough so they dont get really pissed off :D Um how to explain it, well just so that it can be faintley heard, I don't really know how to explain it and for that I'm sorry.

Could you guys just give soundproofing tips, like the most common ways of going about it...shit I'm really sorry for this i now know the confusion you guys were going through.
 
Um how to explain it, well just so that it can be faintley heard, I don't really know how to explain it and for that I'm sorry.
Click to expand...

Don't be sorry. You STILL don't understand the problem. "Explaining" what you want to achieve is NOT the problem. Hell, anyone who wants isolation wants what you are describing because that is the whole point of isolation...if the party you are trying to isolate the sound from can only "faintly" hear it, then they don't have a problem with it.

The PROBLEM, as I've tried to tell you, is SPECIFYING the EXACT assembly to achieve your goals. And doing so WITHOUT knowing your set of conditions is spitting in the wind. Thats why I asked to tell us your conditions.

dwarf, what if I told you, based on what you have told us so far, that in order to achieve your goal, you would need to build the following MINIMUM assembly to guarantee success AND ASSUMES, project plan has been approved and PERMITTED by local Building Inspection Department. :eek: :

1. Remove all existing shiething material from walls, both exterior and interior.
2.
2. Apply a building wrap product such as TYVEC, or other wind infiltration membrane to the exterior face.
3. Shieth the complete exterior shell with one layer of 3/4" OSB. All joints and building penetrations to be caulked/sealed.(electrical and other penetrations)

4. Prep OSB surface for and apply exterior finish of 1" stucco. Seal and paint. CARE must be taken to fasten suspended chicken wire support for stucco at STUD locations only. Do NOT penetrate OSB with fasteners into stud cavities.

5. Detail and custom build HEAVY DUTY entry door jamb for matching depth of exterior shell plus decoupled interior wall leaf. Install paying attention to maintaining decoupling scheme/hardware at interior leaf/jamb intersections.
Pay attention to dimensional requirements of specified THRESHOLD and Door seal detailing as per height and width. Seal any cavity between jamb and stud framing with expansion foam. After foam cures, flush cut with stud face.
6. Beefup exterior leaf by adding THREE LAYERS of STANDARD 5/8" gyp drywall, to INTERIOR FACE OF OSB, between the studs, with each successive layer GLUED to the previous layer with a product known as GREEN GLUE, with NO airgaps between layers and each layer caulked at the seams and joints to the studs. Dimension panels for 1/8" gap or less. Tight fit is better. Now fill remaining cavity with R-13 batt insulation, with insulation prodrusion past stud face of 1". Hold in place with plastic strapping across face of insulation fastened to studs, with 4 straps spaced equal per height of wall. This is assuming electrical/ventilation and associated supply/distribution/return path plan has been executed TO CODE.
7. ASSUMING, engineer approves existing ROOF RAFTER/TRUSS assembly will support the weight of the following assembly, proceed to FLUSH cut ALL existing nails at INTERIOR face of roof shiething.
8. APPLY same 3 layer drywall scenario between roof rafters directly against interior face of roof sheithing. Each layer may need to be held in place by TEMPORARY cleating scenario while adhesive cures. Adhere to caulking spec.
9. Install RSIC isolation hangers as per manufacturer spacing/wieght specifications/fastening method and per panel direction/joint plan.

10. Now layout/build 2 vertical storyboard template/holders for vertical spacing of Resiliant Channel or RSIC clips per manufactures spec/panel plan. Install isolator/decoupler hardware as per spec.

11. Install 2 layers, 5/8" drywall, first layer horizontal, second layer vertical.
If using Resiliant Channel, EXTREME care must be implemented to prevent short circuiting of RC decoupling via screws throug drywall into studs. Best scenario to storyboard fastening schedule both vertically and horizontally. Make sure panels are held off subfloor 1/4". Install 3/8 foam rod backer at floor/drywall joint at first layer with only 2 point connection(do not compress past rear face of drywall). Caulk all joints on first layer.

13. Install suppended cieling hat channel to isolators per drywall panel/ hc spacing plan.

14. Now install 1 layers ceiling 5/8 drywall to Hat channel per fastening schedule. Hold drywall perimeter gap to 1/4" between wall drywall and ceiling drywall. Install foam backing rod to gap and caulk. Same at decoupled HVAC/ventilation duct joints, Caulk all panel seams/joints.
15. Now, install second layer WALL drywall Stagger joint plan on second layer, adhereing second layer to first with GREEN GLUE only. Stagger corner joints, and hold panel 1/4" from cieling drywall at intersection Caulk all gaps seams/ joints including floor/ceiling joint.

16. Install second layer CEILING drywall. Rotate second layer panel direction and stagger joint plan , adhereing second layer to first with SCREWS only per APPROVED fastening schedule. Hold panel 1/4" from wall drywall at perimeter intersection. Note the drywall installation sequence per wall ceiling layers sets up a staggered joint at wall ceiling intersection. Caulk all panel gaps seams/ joints including floor/ceiling joint. Interior leaf is now ready for tape/mud/textureing.
17. BEEFUP solid core door with one layer per side 3/4" MDF. Install 4 HEAVY DUTY, ball bearing hinge hardware. Install door per detail. Install seals. Do not install threshold till "floating floor" system is in place. Fill latchset hole with caulk, and install latchset(remember thickness of door when specifying latchset)
17. Install perimeter APPLIED electrical system as per approved plan.
18. Install perimeter foam decoupling spacer for floor system. Carefully dimension, cut and install roll out resiliant floating floor system. Lay subfloor panels in place with tight fit to perimeter foam spacer and threshold location.
19. Install chosen finish floor with care taken to space finish floor 1/4" from foam space for expansion/decoupling assurance.
20. Install doorjamb casing maintaing 1/8" gap between casing and dywall(as per jamb dimensioning depth detail) and then caulk. Fill threshold with acoustical caulk, and install threshold and caulk.
21. Install baseboard to drywall with adhesive ONLY maintaining 1/8" gap between baseboard and finish floor. Caulk gap.
22. Install HVAC/Ventilation grills to decoupled duct. Caulk specified gap.

23. Paint.
24. Install specified ACOUSTICAL TREATMENT.
25. Install specified lighting system(Must be APPLIED electrical/lighting, remember, NO penetrations in drywall for electrical j-boxes
Voila!!! :)

Now, see, wasn't that easy. :rolleyes: ;)
fitZ
 
My God.... I hope that was a cut and paste.
If not, someone owes someone a six-pack!!! :D
 
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