Without seeing it, I can't say for sure.
However, the first step in diagnosing any electronics problem to check the cable. And if it still isn't working, try two or three OTHER cables. And the try different amps. I'm not saying that these WILL fix the problem, but before you start heating up your soldering iron and possibly messing up your guitar, MAKE SURE IT IS THE GUITAR. You wouldn't believe how often people bring in guitars which are not working only to find out that the problem isn't in the guitar, but in the cord (most often) or the amp (less common). I'd say that 50% of all the electronics problems people call us about are because of a bad cable.
Once you know it IS the guitar, the next thing is to look for something which is obviously wrong. Broken wires, a bare wire touching something it isn't soldered to, or broken solder joints are all common issues. Look at each and every connection, including all of the ground connections. Next, put a meter across the outside terminals of the pots to check there resistance. Don't worry about exact values, as most of those things have tolerances of ±20% or higher. But make sure they aren't wildly off. If they are reading over 1.2 megΩ or under 100kΩ, then it should be replaced. Anything else and, even if it isn’t spec, it should work. Also, measure between each of the outside legs and the middle leg while rotating the control. Are there any gaps or places where the thing doesn't seem consistent (this is kind of hard to tell, but if you see anything really obvious, you might find the problem this way). Caps are basically impossible to test, but as they never are the issue, don't worry about it. Use a meter to check the continuity of the switch in each position. With the volume and tone dimed, set the switch to give you each individual pickup, and check their coil resistance. Single coils should be in the 5-10kΩ range, and humbucker should be in the 8-16 range.
In all likelihood, you either have a bad cable or two (I had people convinced it was the guitar, but it just turned out they had three bad cables - it happens), or there is a solder joint which has broken loose. At a guess, the ground wire to the jack, and I would bet the REASON it broke is because the jack isn't tightened properly. If it wiggles around, that will eventually break the wires. Unfortunately, I believe those Schecters have those long barrel jacks, which are all but impossible to tighten properly, and which can never be re-tensioned. Myself, I never use them (anymore), but some guitars are too thin for a basic Switchcraft #11 and a football plate. More is the pity.
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