Concrete board

  • Thread starter Thread starter James HE
  • Start date Start date
J

James HE

a spoonfull weighs a ton
specifically this stuff called Durok.

I install this stuff all the time in batrooms and kitchens, as part of the subfloor for tile.

Seems like it would be pretty good as sound proofing. Basically it's a concrete sheet in mesh. Heavy, really dense. Like sheetrock, but instead of gypsum it's concrete. It's about 1/2" think.

Not very practical for large spaces, (expensive, $12 for 5' x 3') but for converting a large closet into a booth, I'm thinking I may give it a shot. The space I'm converting is in a basement, the walls are all brick, I just need something to go on the cieling, and want to keep the thickness down so i can retain the hight of the cieling.
Any thoughts?

-jhe
 
It can be pretty effective because of its density, but I'd use it only as part of a sandwich.
Its rrally to expensive, there are better alternatives.

For instance, you can improve the efficiency and diffusion of a wall by stapling chicken wire over the outer skin, then applying a thick layer of external rendering, shaped in rough swills. Basically, this will give you the same effect as Durok, but more effective, thicker, better diffusion and multiple times cheaper.
 
I used this sound deading stuff on boats (for air conditioning units, generators, aux motors, etc), and it works pretty good. Basically what it is, is a 1'' (or so) piece of foam sheet, with a alum. foil facing. But, it also has a sliver of a sheet of lead (or something very similar and heavy) in it too. The foam keeps this lead de-coupled from whatever it is attached to. It is kinda expensive...like 50 bucks for a 4 x 8 sheet of it, but for those marine applications, it works pretty good. I suppose with the foil facing out (or in..whatever your preference) it MIGHT do a decent job. I've used it for building boxes for CPU's and it works great.
 
They make a leveling board for aluminum siding which comes up to an inch thick,mabey more,foam resin inside and foil outside.

The sheets are 2x4 and attached together so they fold out on the wall like an accordian.You can buy it in single larger sheets also I believe.

I don't know how well thy sound proof,but it is pretty dense stuff.
You might want to check it out.

Most people when they want to soundproof a room will just add fiberglass insulation to the connecting walls before they sheetrock.

Hope this helps
Pete
 
My once-a-week comment :)
Foam is a CONDUCTOR of sound and an Insulator against temperature only.
 
thanks for the responses guys.

the "closet" that will be the booth is roughly 6 1/2 x 7 1/2 x 7 1/2.
Three of the walls are brick, it's really just a cubby in the rear of the building, I have an apartment in the basement. The fourth wall is nothing, there is a door frame but no door. I'm going to build out a door there, double walls I suppose and use a single glass panel door. I would use patio type doors, but part of the duct work "ducks" into to the space, and goes through the frame. This is a real problem, I'll need to box in the duct work well, and sound proof the cieling so I won't disturb the nieghbors. for the brick walls I'm thinking I'll just make some big panels and put treatment on them, or making some traps, mixing it up really, a combination of things.

sjoko,
the chicken wire thing sounds neat. By rendering, you mean plaster?
I'm just looking to proof the cieling and the box around the duct, four sheets of durok would do it, but what would you suggest the sandwich be made out of, durok or not? The existing cieling is drywall. Thinking i'll float a space of about an inch, then make a new cieling. Durok then sheetrock sound pretty solid, making a grid with 1x2 flat on the existing cieling (maybe neoprene betwen cieling and the grid) .. hmmm maybe too complicated. There's got to be a real easy way. Maybe just double the sheet rock that is there?

hmm.. think I got it (not easy but) I'll make a grid with 2x4's ancored to the brick walls, not touching the cieling at all, and then build the cieling below that. make that space air tight and as long as I can get the door and the fourth wall good, my upstairs neighbors wount hear a peep out of me. good? no?


-jhe
 
The rendering .... not a good idea over your head ... unless you're really good at it :)

The 'space between' is a very good idea, personally I would fill it with sheets of rockwool, then another layer of 5/8 fire rated drywall. Be carefull with the Durox, I wouldn't use that stuff in a ceiling, its to heavy!

Its a bit difficult to picture the duct, door frame etc. Can you post a couple of pics perhaps?
 
James,
I apologize for my dumb suggestion of using foam,good thing sjoko2 was around.
I should of known better(Duh foam on headphones,foam on speakers)
I was just thinking off the top of my head,like a carpenter,not an acoustical engineer(which I'm certinally not.)

I better find another forum to hang out in,hmmm... lets see(searching),no forum for tone deaf carpenters who think they know what their talking about,
Nothing for introverted musicians who wish they knew what they were talking about,
Ahhh...here we go-newbies-perfect,I can't do any damage over there(or can I?)

Peace,
Pete
 
I think I had this concrete board subject in another post?

I need some clarification of the statement "foam is a CONDUCTOR".... Correct me if I am wrong, but not all foams are conductive, in fact there are quite a few that are isolating because of the actual type of foam used. Not all foams are created equal. Is there anyone here who has an active database of the typical home construction materials and the mass properties as they relate to sound reduction?

Peace,
Dennis
 
Any of the foams normally used for insulation purposes - i.e. the foams that "set" are hard, like those found in some insulation panels and those often used as a core for doors, and foams found in sprays, are all conductors of sound, and insulators of temperature
 
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