CD burning hit & miss....

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MiXit-G

MiXit-G

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I'm using nero to burn by final mixes and i have an old cd player in the lounge room, some burnt discs play fine some wont read.

I noticed the blue coloured discs give me the most problems but are there any options in nero that improve the chances of them working on the older players like, disc at once or track at once...finalize or not...slower burn speed...

Any tips would be appreciated.
 
try a slower burn speed and finalizing. I know when I upgraded to a newer burner things got way better, and I also have the best luck with silver media. I use memeorex 32x most of the time.





F.S.
 
I always do DAO, I hate the two second gap... it will kill a live cd.

I also always finalize cds. Back when I was new to the burning game I would leave cds open and then try to add tracks later in a new session. Either only the new session would play or nothing at all would on the stand alone cd players I tried. Maybe the ones that are cdr compliant or whatever can handle that now, but it's not worth the hassle. Just burn it all at once and be done with it. Cdr's are what -$0.02 these days??

The blue ones might cause problems cause they are not as reflective and some cd players might not handle them well. Slower burn speeds can bail you out sometimes if you're using cheap media (who isn't?) by being able to overcome some of the inconsistencies.

But whadda I know, my top of the line burner is a 4*2*24 (and ya don't wanna know what I paid for it!!!)

Rock on!
*Pat
 
Yes i find the silver media more reliable too, track at once or disk at once you can still select the time between tracks.

Thanks for your input.
 
Same here on the Silver CDs. I've had no problems with silver, But the white or blue or opaque ones always mess up unless I burn at a lower speed.
 
as a rule of thumb-
green = cheapest (and sometimes if it's really cheap, you can see right through these!)
blue is the next line up
and silver is usually the most expensive/best quality.

slower burn speeds = more accurate burn (less chance of some digital error or something, and less chance of some kind of digital pop randomly in the music while listening - very rare for me though!).

you MUST close your cd session (i take it that is what finalize means!) to have it read on normal stereo CD players.

disc at once is usually the safest for most cd players to read too. mastering houses, etc. all ask for disc at once too. in general, it's just a better idea. track at once just adds the 2 second gap between each track. I say, Manually enter the gaps you need/want, and burn disc at once.
 
Thanks guys.

When you mean a slower speed would x16 be around right, i have smartburn too which reduces errors.
 
My max burn speed is 16x, so slower for me means 8x or 4x.

When you say green, Shack, are you talking about the underside of the disk? I don't pay attention to colors very much myself, I'm actually color-blind, so I usually guess wrong when I think I know what color something is.

I have noticed that different brands look different on the underside, but I've still only burned thru a little over a hundred disks since I got my burner, so I haven't seen many different CDR's yet.

What about ones that are white on the top?
 
tops mean nothing - it is simply what is on the top! haha.

yep though, underside (aka, the side getting burned!)

remembenr, it is just a general rule of thumb i've read (and experianced!) a bunch of different places. I do everything DIY here, so when bands put out CDs, i burn 100's over time. haha. so yeah, i've gone through quite a few cdr's!


when i say slow, i mean more like 4x. but, i suppose with these new 52x burners, etc. - a slow speed could be something like 24x? not sure...ha..sorry!

today i was out looking at some CD's, and i even saw some GOLD undersides! never seen them before, but i suppose they would be the "ultimate" for cdr right now? haha. they wbere expensive - that is the sole reason why i guess that! haha.

anyway, there is nothing wrong with using the cheap CDr's to burn cds with. I rarely have them breaking on me, but yes, it does happen - you must be more careful with them.

for your final master cd's (say, for other CD's to be burnt off of, or to be sent to a CD mastering house, or replication plant...), go ahead and buy a high end cdr - an expensive one. it'll be worth it. and burn it slow. it can't hurt!

Peace.
 
some more thoughts ...

I've used various "cheap" media with mixed results, but when I use the Kodak Gold I don't have nearly as many problems. BTW, the "gold" underside types of CDRs actually come in 2 flavors ... depending on whether the dye on the bottom is yellow/green or blue, or something like that. And the gold really does matter, according to experts, because it's a combination of the dye AND the reflective surface underneath the dye. Hell, I'm not a technician, but I can testify to the improved results I got with the Kodak's. Mitsui's Golds are more expensive. Whether they are better or not I don't know ... never used 'em.

Recently a pro recording engineer told me to make sure I'm burning CDs using the "ISO9660" format vs. "Joliet", because he's found the ISO standard is, well, more standard.

Also, I think it depends on the burner. Another engineer I sought help from does lots of duping ... and he got some special machine for it because the resulting CDs supposedly play on more players than discs burned by simple PC peripherals like most of us probably have -- the kind of burners that do data AND audio. It's kinda complicated, isn't it?
 
The general and most popular advice I have heard over the last couple of years is...........

GOLD....(usually Kodaks)......DON'T use them for music. DATA only.

BLUE.....(Various brands)......fine for music and data.

GREEN...........I haven't seen too many, so no comment.

SILVER.......Usually fine for any use.


I came across an article some months back that explained a lot about CDs and the different dyes. If I didn't lose it during a H/drive crash, I will find it and post it here or a link to it's source.

Regardless of what colour dye (except for the Gold), I think you are safe for burning music but I have a preference for sticking with known brand names, paying the extra for that brand and NOT burning faster than 4X.

:cool:
 
Burn speed seems to be a key issue. I can see the difference. If I burn at a fast speed, the 'shaded' info area gets harder to see the faster I burn. At the highest speeds it appears uneven as well with darker and lighter stripes.
I was looking forward to being able to burn at faster speeds, but...
My biggest problem with Nero, is I can't get it to burn DAO CDs without a glitch between tracks.
I really can't afford WaveLab right now. If anyone has used cheaper CD software that works well with Win XPpro I'd love to hear about it.
 
ausrock said:
The general and most popular advice I have heard over the last couple of years is...........

GOLD....(usually Kodaks)......DON'T use them for music. DATA only.

BLUE.....(Various brands)......fine for music and data.

GREEN...........I haven't seen too many, so no comment.

SILVER.......Usually fine for any use.


I came across an article some months back that explained a lot about CDs and the different dyes. If I didn't lose it during a H/drive crash, I will find it and post it here or a link to it's source.

Regardless of what colour dye (except for the Gold), I think you are safe for burning music but I have a preference for sticking with known brand names, paying the extra for that brand and NOT burning faster than 4X.

:cool:
Click to expand...

I've burned many an audio disc with the gold ones. No problems so far and some of these are 5 years old.
 
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