Advice for electrical outlets ?

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jbgoode

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What have people done for electrical outlets and light switch boxes in walls constructed with resilient channel and dual layers of gyp. board ??

Are there some type of extended boxes available for the extra depth of the RC & gyp. bd. ?

Is there some sort of mounting trick ?

We want the boxes to be mounted fairly sturdy to handle repeated abuse when plugging in amps.

If mounted to the underlying stud framing, should I be worried about the sound transmission path thru the boxes ?

Thanks for any advice, didn't find anything when I searched the forum.
-JB
 
What I've been able to find out is that if you use the metal gang boxes, as opposed to the blue plastic ones, you can compensate for the additional wall thickness when mounting them to the stud.

To over come wall penetrations on exterior walls and ruining your STC rating, I'm going to mount my electrical boxes in a furr-down.

There's pictures of my electrical lay-out here:
https://homerecording.com/bbs/showthread.php?threadid=68125

The furr-downs can also be used for HVAC vents, and the exterior of the furr-down can accomodate diffusors as well.
 
Michael, could you explan what "furr-down" means ?? Couldn't find a translation for that word..

thx,
Herwig
 
DeadPoet said:
Michael, could you explan what "furr-down" means ?? Couldn't find a translation for that word..

thx,
Herwig
Click to expand...
Definition from the interior designers glossary is:
FURR-DOWN - drop in ceiling created with sheet rock

And this from professional engineering .com
Furr downs
The lowered portion of a ceiling above a cabinet or closet. The furr down is intended to improve the appearance of a cabinet by closing the opening between the ceiling and the top of a cabinet.

A furr-down is simply an enclosed coundit that runs either verticle or horizontal.
Think of the space above your kitchen cabinets, if you can put something on top of the cabinet, then you DON'T have a fur-down.
Look at this pic:

memorialnw1.jpg


See the white pillar looking things just below the ball lights, on the first floor? Those too, are fur-downs. They posess no real structural capabilities, and are there for design asthetics as well as to hide cabeling and venting.

Sometimes, in older homes, they were put in where pipes came down inside the room, usually in a corner to hide the plumbing.

Furr-downs don't have to be above a cabinet though. Sometimes ceilings have a drop, or furr-down, in them too. In that application, it's usually to add recessed lighting.

In my lay-out (at the above link) they are the light-blue squares on the exterior walls, (4 of them in all) and will run from floor to ceiling.
 
thanks Michael, makes sense to me and indeed a clever way of solving this problem.

Herwig
 
If you mount the boxes to the studs, you can get PVC box extenders at Home Depot to make up the gap (there's some sitting out in my truck, so if you need a manufacturers name, let me know). For isolation, caulk the gaps between the boxes and the sheetrock; also, the conduit entry ports into the box (this is easier to do before you hang the first layer of drywall ;) ).

IMHO, attaching the boxes to your framing is the best way to get a stout connection if you plan and cycling your plugs alot. There's nothing worse than squishy receptacles.

Alex
 
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