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VP, it looks like you have a tool for everything. However, no workshop is complete without one of these: Veritas® No-Fuss-Tool Shroud - Lee Valley Tools

I'd guess the noise is coming from the FETHead (though I know nothing about it) or the preamp. Ribbon mics take lots of gain, so if you have the preamp cranked you're amplifying the preamp's first stage noise and everything upstream. A ribbon mic has no active components (just a ribbon, a magnet...

Well, I'm almost 68. Wait a few years. Plus, first you have to take the strings off, which almost doubles the work. And nylon strings stretch and stretch and stretch... And I bet I am a lot lazier than you are.

You have a classical with a laminated neck?

moresound, you were certainly right on top of this as I posted. Good job. :D

Drill a bunch of 1/4" holes in the other end about 3/4" deep to form a slot. Put it in a drill, electric screwdriver or whatever, put the slot over the tuner button, and let her rip - forward or reverse.

Next, a segment of dowel about an inch in diameter. I made mine on a lathe in a couple of minutes. You could probably just use a rectangular piece of a wooden stick - it doesn't really have to be round. Drill a 1/4" hole in the center of one end, and pound the bit into it - it's a nice tight fit..

I know it's been done before, but thought I'd post my take on it. I really hate to change strings - that's why I almost never do it. This has made it easier. First, an old broken 1/4" hex bit. I've got a lot of these lying around - I never throw anything out.

Voila! The action is about 4.5mm at the 12th fret - a little higher than I'd like it. The neck may also develop a little relief over time, so eventually I may unbolt the neck and shim it a little, as it should point a little more toward the top of the bridge anyway. That way I could raise the...

Then I used a paint stripper to heat the fretboard. I ran it up and down the board, several inches away, for about half an hour on maximum setting. The fretboard and neck were warm to the touch, but the frets were hot as hell. The fretboard got a little brown in places, but no burns.

An update (back from the dead.) Over the years the neck gradually developed more of a forward bow, making it difficult to play above the third fret. I'd long heard of heating the fretboard, thus softening the glue binding it to the neck. If the glue reset (cooled) with the neck straightened...

Maybe this will help (or maybe not.)

If it doesn't have a compensated saddle you should try one to see if that is correction enough. If not, you can fill the slot in the bridge and cut a new slot in the correct position.

Try posting your question here in The Lab: GroupDIY - Index

Or you could use some weedeater line if you have some - I have a bunch left over from this project. :) https://homerecording.com/bbs/equipment-forums/guitars-basses/i-got-so-tired-paying-$150-bass-strings-116559/

I haven't done this (no need - I have fretless basses), but I would go about it by taking off the neck (if possible), removing the nut, pulling the frets, cleaning the slots with a saw of appropriate kerf and drilling out the position markers, then filling with a black epoxy like this...

Apparently I interrupted a pissing contest with a serious question https://homerecording.com/bbs/equipment-forums/guitars-basses/hr-members-guitar-design-build-thread-332265/39/#post3762767 This has turned as worthless as many other threads here at hr. Carry on, ye of the virtual ginormous...

How about alder? It's cheap, I've got lots of it, and it's not completely unheard of: CarvinWorld.com - Guitars, Amplifiers & Pro Audio

Years ago I swapped capsules with an Oktava MK219 - the 990 body and circuit with the 219 capsule sounded pretty good. https://homerecording.com/bbs/equipment-forums/microphones/mystery-mic-guts-111505/

These would be domesticated animals that reverted to the wild state around his studio? What did he use these for - sampling?