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Take my tip and check around town, paying 90% less than eBay prices.

That bass would look good on say Pino Presti, but Frank Bello might get laughed at if he showed up with that.

Orange-orange-white would be 33000 Meg. Orange-orange-yellow would be 330K, and a common value. I would buy a simple parts drawer like so; http://www.masterack.com/files/masterack-images/product/02d641_600x400.jpg .....and label them. Put the resistor in the right drawer, and double check with...

Apparently there's '50 shades of gray' (who knew?), so who knows what someone's 'fizzy' or 'rattly' means. It could also be the signal driving the tubes into cutoff, since it only happens at medium gain settings. That makes me believe that it could be a bias problem. Not related, but a side...

It's also possible that the amplifier was designed and released with a circuit that makes finding tubes 'that work' difficult. Heck, you can spend days finding tubes for a Boogie, and their non-adjustable bias. I used to have a 90's AC30 that no matter how many hundreds of quads of EL84's I put...

I've never seen a Fender Champ do this, being a low power amp. See Fender Champ, Princeton, Orange Tiny Terror, Epiphone Valve Junior, etc. Cheap and easy. May actually solve the problem. You can, even though it is a purported Class A circuit. If you have a decent tech, he can possibly...

I would absolutely tune the strings slack while you're away. Having the guitar wrapped in a blanket is a good idea. Inside a case that was wrapped itself is another good idea. If the closet doesn't use an outside wall, you might be better off than you'd first imagine.

A while back, you were laughed at with any Japanese guitar gear. Not that long ago, the Japanese Fender stuff was as good, if not better, than most USA stuff of that period. Unfortunately, everyone knows it, so today that 80's Tokai Strat is up to $1,600 or so, but still cheaper than a $3K...

Comparing a Stradivarius, having a thin spruce top treated with potassium borate, sodium and potassium silicate, and vernice bianca, to say a Les Paul with a thick maple slab glued onto a thicker mahogany slab, drowned in sealer and lacquer, and played through a Big Muff π through a cranked...

Here is my free tip to you, and you can thank me later. Look for the oldest TV repair shop in your town, and ask if they have any old tube tester kicking around. Or, there has to be a supply house; the people who sold parts to the old TV repair shops. Ask there if they still see any real old...

But does it still sound like a Strat? :confused:

Being Canadian, and an L&M regular, I feel your pain. I've played $3K Les Pauls that were horrible. It's these dry Winnipeg winters here, and I'm sure Alberta is no different. The acoustic room here has more than one humidifier going all day. Even if you had your repair guy tweak all the guitars...

The best way I've found to 'see' a tremolo circuit in action is with a plain old-school analog voltmeter or even a VTVM, like so; As the 'Speed' control is set higher, the needle should swing faster. Assuming the wiring is right (even if you check all capacitors and resistors for value...

That is the weirdest reverb tank I have ever seen. If you can trace it, knowing which are the input leads and which are output leads would be a huge help. I would ask around and find the oldest tube service guy in your town. Maybe he knew these. Who sold Teisco in your town back in the day...

Meaning you can hook up the preamp to a power amp and get output from either 'channel'? With the tone and volume controls working? So far, so good. Meaning the controls do nothing, and no effect is heard? Well, you have the right tools. Now to trouble shoot. Usually, but not always, the...

I'd use perfboard, and sometimes they have solder pads to make life so much easier. Another thing to do is buy from either BYOC or General Guitar Gadgets. Or, buy something like a Distortion+, and maybe mod what's there, since there's so many web sites with the schematic and mod ideas. Once you...

Oi vey! Usually I let harmless tall tales go, since 1) I am not a good debater, and I always get my ass kicked, and 2) they're harmless. Hence the name. And I earlier let it go that using a 12AT7 for a 12AX7 would burn out anode loads. It cannot, but what harm does letting that one go do...

Then I'd definitely check the tubes and the bias. That amp should bark. But, maybe the speaker cab has speakers that won't break up nicely. Did you check the Yellow Jackets video where the test is with two tubes down to EL84 and two EL34 tubes completely removed? My guess is you dropped it down...

As Charlie Chan would say.... Egg-Zachary. To repeat myself; the 'brite' circuit is that cap you could snip, if you felt up to the task. But again, '10' is '10', and no effect would be heard. At say '7' on the volume control, some may call it 'duller', some may call it 'warmer', but it wouldn't...

C14 is part of a treble peaking circuit. Just removing that, or R16, removes the peaking circuit. The gain will go up a little (but more in the bottom end), and removing R15 makes the gain go up a little more. To compensate for this, if too much gain is an issue, you can try a 12AY7 tube, or...