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Just to add to what Sweetbeats posted... assuming your measurements are accurate, these Studer desks have excellent service manuals and many adjustment points. If you're not comfortable doing the calibration yourself, this would likely be a very easy job for a competent tech.

Did you check the bandwidth capability of your Fluke meter? I have one that only measures up to 500hz, it gets extremely inaccurate at higher frequencies.

Here it's usually sold in 3 spool kits at hobby shops (IIRC 22, 26, and 30 awg). I think 22 or 24 gauge would be the easiest to work with and have ample current carrying capacity. I find it's handy to have around the studio for sundry fixes (eg hardwiring switched microphones). You could try to...

For situations like this, I've had good luck using magnet wire (enameled) to jump broken traces. I find it makes it easier to do a tidy, reliable jump.

Thanks for the kind words! It's pretty straightforward, basically you just make a multitrack tape loop. In this case Jane from the group Tops was kind enough to play a series of very even notes for us. She did a count in for the first note so that the subsequent ones would have the start and...

Sounds great! His drum sound is better than ever, particularly excellent on that track at the 11:50 mark. His whole discography is a very good IMO: 0xBAADF00D | SLUGBUG

The synchronization looks perfect. Did you have any issues with your Otari's 9.6khz capstan frequency bleeding when you first made your setup? I had an earsplitting intermittent whine in my tweeters with my MX70 and MicroLynx. I needed to transformer isolate that wire to fix the issue.

Hey thanks! We've always been pretty self-conscious of the live show. Always feels like a work in progress.

We put out a new song today after a verrrry long absence: Shoulder Season | Freelove Fenner We did the old fake mellotron trick on this one (playing a multitrack tape loop with faders). I've been very offline lately. I'm heartened to see jpmorris, sweetbeats, and few of the other regulars are...

I love it!

That sounds great!

Yup, thanks! I needed to replace 2 transistors and a capacitor. These decks can be a bit intimidating to service at first but it gets easier after you break things down into blocks. I've now got a bit more respect for those 80s Fostex engineers.

Just to add to what Sweetbeats said, check section 7-5-12 in the service manual 'Tape path fine adjustment'. There are good diagrams on the reel table height adjustment as well as the tension roller azimuth procedure. I should also add that, in my opinion, the most important thing in the whole...

Thanks for the advice everyone. James, your hunch led me in the right direction: Q41 (which is directly connected to the motor drive transistor) ended up having a shorted junction.

Hi all, I'm looking at someone's B-16 right now. Its supply reel spins at full speed/power (clockwise) as soon as it's powered on. The tension arms and transport buttons have no effect on it. When I trick the tape end sensor and tension arms into thinking tape is loaded I can make the transport...

Hey if you're a beginner with this machine, the first thing I'd check is your tape threading. IIRC the machine acts a little funny if you thread it around the tachometer the wrong way (the counter will also go backwards).

Hey Cory, maybe a flux loop could augment your test tape? If you haven't already seen it, Dale Manquen wrote a great tutorial. A magnetic viewer like this might be useful if you need to adjust the head height/tangent.

Hi Cory, they're +/-20v

Hey sorry, missed this. Punching is really great on the MX70. There's a rather elaborate gapless punch calibration that I've thankfully never had to adjust. If you download the manual at AnalogRules.con (Goreski uploaded a really nice clear scan) it gives you a bit of an idea of the trade-offs...

Hi Mike, I don't have the manual on hand but there's a description of the punch in/punch out function with times in there. It's definitely worse than other tape machines I've used. IIRC it's the laggard punch out time that kills you. Try punching in and then going until there's a break (or the...