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So, my apologies, I was looking at the circuit backwards…the circuit on the power supply PCB doesn’t power the mute relays, it delays continuity to ground for the relay coils…so one side of the coils should be seeing +24V all the time. When you power up the circuit on the power supply PCB delays...

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Okay. Stay tuned on the rest.

I think what I have for you as far as fader knobs is the three aforementioned correct M-300 series input channel putty/blue parts, and a couple dark brown with orange stripe. The alternatives I have are either going to duplicate colors over in the master section, and that doesn’t make sense to...

Okay…let me go shopping in storage and I’ll follow up with a private message to you. I do know I only have three of the fader knobs left in that color scheme (putty/blue). I have 8 of the group section orange with blue stripe, and an assortment of other color schemes from other models (exact...

Last question: on the fader knobs, you’re talking about the off-white or putty-colored ones with the dark blue stripe? There aren’t white fader knobs, but rather off-white or putty-colored ones for the input channels.

Im just guessing you need the dark brown version switch and knob parts. I can’t really tell from the pic…too far back. Have you tried straightening the fader shafts yet? You may need faders too when you do that, so try and repair those first, and test with existing fader caps before we...

5x white faders: do you mean fader caps? Or you need the faders? Or both? 2x red switch caps: I have these. But is the body of your switch caps light brown or dark brown? They changed color during the production run. I have both, but would need to know what you have so I get what matches. 1...

Sorry. All the metalwork is long gone including the dress panel and that escutcheon. It’s just PCB assemblies, faders, knobs, switch caps left. So sorry.

Hi. Does this also happen when you are listening to audio at an input, or does it only happen when you are monitoring tape playback?

Yeah…here’s the thread on it…which is too much for anybody to read, but it’s the most comprehensive information set on it: https://homerecording.com/bbs/threads/tascam-m-___-story.270992/ Here’s a more recent pic of it: And here’s a layout of all 12 I/O modules and the Control Module so you...

Sounds good. And the Tascam console…ahhh you’ve incited the nerd in me…you’re talking about the 12x8x2 prototype inline console? Yep…rare indeed. If you or anybody *had* ever run across anything like I’d sure like to know. I’m reasonably certain it’s the only one like it in existence. I’d have...

I completely understand. I didn’t realize you were going to be passing the machine on after your project. You probably said that. FWIW I very rarely see caps in the failure states you mentioned in period Teac equipment; bulging, leaking, etc. they used good quality caps for the day. That being...

Personally I would not suspect or have concern with D805 and D806. I mean, you can test them, but this is a relatively low voltage low current circuit, and all those diodes do is ensure proper current flow at power up and power down in order for the transistor “on” state to be delayed at power...

And yeah okay I think if it was me I’d dismount the main power transformer, fuse PCB, and that sensor PCB mounted to the back of the takeup reel motor…take lots of pics, put hardware into different labeled baggies…those steps might help you make some gains with extracting the power supply PCB.

I wasn’t saying looking on the Mouser or Digikey website for cross-reference. Get old-school and call them…or open a live chat. Generally it’s possible to navigate PCB assemblies out around hard soldered wires…it’s not uncommon for the power supply to have to dismount the main transformer...

Thanks. I appreciate it. “Algorithmic Overlord”…lol Can you post a pic or some pics of what you are looking at as far as extracting your power supply? I looked at the exploded view and I see how it fastens, but it’s hard to know how things sit when assembled. It looks like there are two screws...

I need to revise my direction…transistors CAN be tested in circuit, I have just avoided doing it because I don’t trust the accuracy of the results I get…so my practice is to test them out of circuit with a transistor tester. To test a transistor in-circuit with a DMM you set it to diode check...

Transistors have to be tested out of circuit When you pull the PCB assembly, do it after it’s been unplugged and switched off overnight, or for at least several hours, to make sure the larger filter caps are all fully discharged.

So just because the voltage doesn’t seem correct at the base of Q801 does not necessarily mean Q801 is the cause of the fault. But it’s certainly suspect. If it was me I’d pull the transistor and test it. You can still find the 2SC1645 new-old-stock and if you shop a bit you can find somebody...