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One of features I love about Reaper upgrades is that each is a complete install, so you can easily revert to previous versions if you find the newest one doesn't work for you.

Who are "they"?

Nothing will flag you for an IRS audit faster than claiming use of your home for business. Make sure you understand the code (what qualifies as legitimate use is quite detailed and limited), and that the hassle of compliance is worth the effort. Get some professional advice.

I've had issues with mics (Shures) that got wonky after sitting for a few years, unused. I've done the blowing into the screen thing, and when that doesn't work a little light tap on the desk did. (No worries, Shure SM's are built tough!).

Yep, check the orientation of the mic. Different mics have their switches/buttons on different sides, and it can be easy to get turned around. I usually put a small piece of yellow tape on the "good" side for visibility.

There's only one way ... practice. No shortcuts, no workarounds. You just need to do it, and do it, and then do it again.

I've used Reaper for years now. Does everything I need to do, recording mostly acoustic stuff. We just produced a CD with it. It is nearly infinitely customizable, and there are loads of resources available free online. Solid performer in my book. For $60 you won't do better.

I have the 6i6. The Scarlett Mix Control software is only available with the 6i6 and up. It allows for direct monitoring, which is much more efficient (and latency free) than monitoring in the DAW. It also provides useful input/output routing. The fewer processing tasks you ask of the DAW...

Shot in the dark ... have you checked the level of DIGITAL TRIM (on the mixer page)? Also, what device are you attempting to input?

I bought a couple in a pinch a couple years ago. They were crap. Shoddy connectors, and there ain't enough copper in 'em ... must have been 30 gauge. So little copper that a soldering iron would cook the wire before melting the solder. I tossed 'em both. As a regular giggin' performer I...

- The DP24 and DP32 (and variants) record to WAV directly. There is no proprietary file format or disk partition, and no need to convert. - You do not have to use the EXPORT function, as you record, the WAVs will be in the MUSIC folder. But using the EXPORT function will consolidate all the...

Probably has nothing to do with the phantom power, you're likely introducing too much gain and the noise that's already in your signal chain is being amplified right up front. I can't imagine why you'd need to "dime" the input level. You might consider an external mic preamp with phantom power.

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I'm mixing tracks for a new CD right now. I am NOT a professional recordist/engineer ... hell, barely proficient let alone professional! But just to add(?) to the conversation, I've found in this project the singer's voice is sounding best with this FX chain ... COMP->EQ->DELAY->REVERB

If you want to export the whole thing (no trimming) then no, you don't have to set points, it assumes a beginning and end. To MASTER you must set in/out. The EXPORT function will consolidate all takes, punches and other edits (which create lots of small audio items) into a single track. It...

I find it useful ... especially if I notice something I didn't when I was tracking. There are all sorts things that can make a low freq rumble. Most of us aren't using acoustically treated studios and are making do with the conditions that exist, same for recording a live performance ...

Make some room on the card. Backup card to a computer and then delete unused files/songs. If it's the only song on that card, then backup the card to a computer; buy, format and install a larger capacity card; restore the files from computer, then master.

- The file must be a WAV file (you'll have to EXPORT from the Yamaha) - You copy that file into the AUDIO DEPOT folder on the DP32 - You then IMPORT the track from the AUDIO DEPOT folder - You are done I believe the project and the WAV to be imported must be the same format, check your DP32...

Page 12 of the manual. There is no driver required, but you do need some hardware, and some DAW software on the iOS device. "US-2x2: You will need a Lightning to USB Camera Adapter1 and an AC adapter (sold separately).2 US-4x4: You will need a Lightning to USB Camera Adapter.1 1 You must...

First off, I'd run your keyboard into a pair of stereo tracks to get the full sound of the instrument (it's intended to be stereo). Did you check the mixer to see if any FX were active on track 4? That would be my first guess.