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Also check out Smartdraw. You can download a trial version from their website. It's a cool program because you can save your drawing files in multiple formats once you're done working on them (gif, pdf, jpeg, etc.) Alex

Shack, Carpet and blankets will get out the highs but not the low and mids which can end up making your sources sound muddy. That is to say that I'm not sure recording in your bathroom treated to absorbe highs will make things better than if you treat your live room. To improve you need to...

Assuming (dangerous, I know) your beams are timber--no big deal. Leave them there and treat the ceiling above. Would be helpful to know how much isolation you need. If it's alot, you'll want to do the ceiling the same way you isolate the walls (insulation in the cavities, RC channel, sheet...

Thanks HangDawg, I saw that at the MOTU site and figured it might work. I'll start saving as well. Alex

Sweet. Rock on and post some pictures. Alex

Thanks Track. Humor me. What's and HD24? Alex

Here's my set-up: Korg D1600 16-track HD recorder. M-box with Protools LE on Mac G4. Mackie 1604 I was hoping to be close to done but the guru's over in the mixing & mastering neck filled my head with visions of analog mix down (something about "bad" buss summing of DSPs). Anyway, if I did...

I agree, that sounds way excessive. Should be more than adequate. Alex

Kevin, I'm covering framed absorpers with black burlap. The roll I got is 48-inches wide so i'm trimming it to meet the underlying framing. I'm attaching it to the wood with staples. I'm thinking about covering the seams with thin battens painted another color which could look pretty dope...

Check out the U.S. manufacturer's site: http://www.thermafiber.com/ If you call them they can probably give you the name of a supplier in your area. The stuff you want is the 3-in fireblanket (FS-15). It's not much more than standard fiberglass insulation. Good Luck. Alex

How much head room you got? Your best option will be to frame in another ceiling isolated from the first by an air gap, but this will chop out about a foot of your existing clearance. Post some more details and we can try and work out a solution. Alex

It does. You need to set in and out points and then copy all tracks to the clipboard. They can then be saved to CD as individual wave files. Alex

Probably not. To work, they'd have to be completely air tight. In addition, they'd need to have sufficient absorptive properties to dissipate the sound energy trapped inside--otherwise you'll end up with a new sound source resonating back into the room. Alex

I had a similar question at one time and this is a detail that John provided: Hope it helps. Alex

If your exterior brick walls are well sealed these should provide pretty good isolation. Coupled with a timber framed wall inside with an air gap in between you should get very good isolation. How tall is the ceiling you want to construct? In any case, timber framed walls are capable of...

Dan, That jut-out on the left is just the entrance cubicle. Separates the "jam room" off from what will be my wife's future home office. Here's a plan for the whole thing. Alex

RD, Mud and tape all your joints the conventional way. At the junction between your walls and the floor, run a bead of silicone-based caulk. Also caulk any other gaps at window, door, duct, electrical box, etc. penetrations. What you're looking for is a complete air seal. Alex

OB, I don't know of any off-hand; but if we can retrace a bit, where are you planning on using vinyl barrier? You may be able to use more conventional materials that will give you the same performance, depending on what it is you need to do. Alex

Here's mine. Still workin' on it, but getting closer. Alex

If you look at the drawings accompanying that article they're based on using O-C 703 panels. Typically Home Depot doesn't carry them, but can special order them if you need a lot (minimum 25 packages at my local H.D.). Alex