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Double post

What does the 551F stamped on the side of each pot refer to?

Bugger. Those things are impossible to find with that shaft length

The problem that seems to have developed in that particular pot is thus. Turning it has no effect until around three quarters of the way through its travel. Then there's an audible click (and you can feel it as well) and then it starts working, but the sound is terrible. It's the original...

It's a 10KA pot, according to the manual, with a 15 to 16mm shaft (no, it's not missing), Also according to the service manual it's 1S1UVR 16, 10KA.

Got the molex connectors soldered in by a pro and the board is back home and in its rightful place. Fell into place perfectly with no jiggling. Now I just need to get the pot for Monitor 1 gain sorted. Remind me, is it linear taper or audio?

Update. Turns out you can still get two conductor Molex connectors

I can't read circuit diagrams, so I've no idea where the bias oscillator is or how it's connected to everything else. I also don't know why it might not be switching into record mode.

Im going to see about getting all the rec/play cards rebiased, whether they need it or not. It can't be that much more than buying a £400 multimeter and then getting them rebiased

So there's nothing in the £50 to £100~price range that can do the job and only multimeters starting at £400 are capable? What use have I for a £400+ multimeter? I'm not going to start repairing other peopleś electrical equipment. It would be an investment I can't afford or justify. It...

Will this work https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3744634.pdf (pages 23 and 24)? I know barely anything about electrical and electronics beyond the absolute basics. I'm pretty sure I've mentioned that before.

Tape shed or grease? It's at the very bottom just above the faceplate of the tape housing base.

I can't find any mention of frequency in relation to AC on any of the data sheets for handheld multimeters I've looked at starting in the £800 range and working my way down.

This one claims to go up to 220 MHz with an accuracy of ̣±(0.01% +5) and is somewhat affordable at £108 if I borrow the rest off a friend. https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3195199.pdf

It seems I'm in a double bind. If I can't afford the £300+ multitmeters you'd recommend then I certainly can't afford to send it off to someone else to fix. Even if I could get a suitable multimeter for less used you've made me so unsure about my choices that I'd have no idea which to buy. I...

Assuming there is any bias (which I doubt) what would the next step be and could it be done in a weekend by me? If so I could probably hire a suitable device. If anyone knows what that might be. I don't really have any use for a multimeter on a regular basis. Also, why has it lost bias?

I doubt I'd find anyone within a hundred miles who even knows how to fix stuff like this now. The closest person I can think of lives in the Scottish Isles.

How about this? https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/multimeters/1231930?gb=b

You could find the cheapest unit capable of doing the job here and post the link below

I don't think I could afford a meter that is capable of doing that. It sounds like it'd be way over £50