Search results

And yeah I hear opinions all over the place about leaving equipment on. And I’m not sure there is a clear winner there as far as what to do. What I know is heat kills, so if there is a device that doesn’t have good cooling, leaving it on all the time could shorten service life…but another thing...

I suppose it’s possible for the filament to age over time…maybe…and become fragile and fall out of spec. I don’t know any of that for certain…pure conjecture. But the important thing to remember here is fuses protect what’s downstream. When there is a fault downstream that causes the system to...

FYI for future you can probably find these at your local auto parts store.

So what I would do at this point is replace the fuses, making sure you replace them with the proper rated parts, power the supply with the console disconnected, re-check the outputs of the +15V and -15V supplies with your multimeter as you did before, both for DC and AC voltage, verify they are...

That’s what I suspected. You can’t tell if fuses are good by looking at them. Pull them out and set your meter to resistance and make sure you have continuity across each fuse.

Grounding the supply doesn’t do anything to protect the supply. It does two things: first and foremost it provides a path for current in the event there is a failure in the neutral conductor. It ensures current goes to ground through the “safety” ground instead of through you. That’s the primary...

Easy step 1 is to re-seat the power supply umbilical at the console and at the power supply. If that makes no difference, disconnect the power supply from the console, get out your multimeter and check that all the DC power rails are outputting correct DC voltage, and then check for AC voltage...

Stay tuned…

Yes…there’s more than the console! Can’t wait to dig in to the Juno 106…get the vomit cleaned off of it…get it cleaned up and start digging deeper into whatever else it needs…planning on a recap and possibly replacing the slide pots and switches. I think it’s going to clean up well.

Glad it is working better than you expected and very cool you got it with the box and packing material…the music of my people lol.

Thanks for sharing your adventure! Keep us posted.

Interesting…yeah I think you could do that. Alternatively you could just bounce the pre-recorded track to a new track summed with the new source, but is this a case where you want to preserve the 1st generation quality of the original track and/or there is no track available for bouncing?

I’ll follow up by email, but I likely have those…will have to check later today.

I do, but how many do you need and are yours light brown or dark brown? Can you post a pic of your console?

So something is not right with your +/-15V rails…

Title says it all…

I think, as far as the recorder, ultimately you should do what works best for you. You know my opinion…I would almost consider the R8 more portable than a 238 because it takes up a much smaller footprint than a 238 in a rack…even has a carry handle…I/O conveniently located on the top…detachable...

I want to be clear though…if it was me I’d be sticking with the R8. Is novel as the 238 is, you’re likely to drop several hundred dollars in capstan servo repair/replace right off the bat if it hasn’t been done yet, and will likely need to replace the reel idler drive tire for proper function...

It wasn’t clear to me you understood the external mixer was necessary with the 238 by your statement “…so stripping the mixer away and just heading the cassette 8 track would allow a little more portability and better integration…” Yes. I was making the point the 238 has better performance...

The 238 requires an outboard mixing console.