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You'll have to use Repro monitoring. In Sync mode, the tracks which are playing back will come off tape so that you can hear the rest of the song while overdubbing. The tracks which are being recorded, you'll be hearing the original input before it reaches the tape.

I was about to suggest the same. Back in the 70s, Larry Fast had a problem where someone serviced the multtrack and accidentally swapped the erase head connectors. This meant that when he recorded on e.g. track 8, the erase head started to wipe track 16 or something. I suspect this kind of...

Ampex 456 between about 1975 and 1995 is almost certain to have gone sticky, and selling these as blanks to some unfortunate sounds like a really bad idea. For that matter, you're likely to have a 'fun' time even wiping the things unless you have a bulk eraser to hand. Scotch 250 I'm not sure...

For those who are interested, Mr. Millar has dropped a new album: Since I first learned about Slugbug here I figured I'd return the favour.

My tape shelf actually illustrates the transition from RMG through to RTM, and finally the white/grey packaging they're using at the moment. (Furthest right are old Quantegy tapes). But I would assume the answer to the overall question is "They get their tape from ATR and RTM resellers".

I've managed to get four 2" SM900s so far, two BASF and two EMTEC. One of the EMTECs was a real treat, it had all the frills. Oh, I recently managed to acquire a 5000ft roll from France which I'm going to spool onto some empty reels eventually, when I can figure out a sensible way to do so...

Interesting, mine is even more ratty than yours. Yeah, you might need someone more familiar with the Roland to help here. Playing the recording out of the digital recorder should just work.

Neat, this is a new deck from Thorens. It is about 11'000 Euro, mind, so a bit out of my budget... Thorens TM 1600 nieuwe spoelenrecorder, straks te zien in Mnchen

Here is the encoder:

YouTube ...that's a new one on me.

Thanks. Definitely handy to know that that's a common mod - if only there was a schematic of the revised supply. As for C10, that's of the caps I've replaced so I don't think that's it. C9 is a suspect but I don't have any suitable replacements. Interesting that you don't have the solder...

I am using an Otari CB140 remote unit with an MX80 24-track machine. It has been a little cantankerous, occasionally blowing the 2A internal fuse, especially if the unit was knocked. The other day, it threw a strop and now is blowing fuses continuously. I am still investigating, but I'm...

If anyone is interested, I have got the new album mastered. It can be found here: Dr. Gwendolini's Amazing Medicine Show Or on Bandcamp here: Dr. Gwendolini's Amazing Medicine Show | DOUG the Eagle Most of the songs were recorded on an Otari MX-80 2" machine, except for 'Dictator' which was...

“High Definition Vinyl” Is Happening, Possibly as Early as Next Year | Pitchfork This is interesting. While a lot of people have been pointing and laughing, the fact that they seem to be fabricating a stamper directly from audio data instead of cutting a disk and electroplating it is...

OK, so after rewiring some of the studio I tried to record some timecodes. After much swearing and trying to reverse-engineer the convoluted system I have for timecode routing, I eventually realised that the way I'd set it up, all timecodes generated from the TS1 Midi sync unit were going...

Here's the preamp on the A807:

OK, I got curious and took one of them apart. I'd forgotten what a forest of 7400 logic chips it had inside. Much like an early 80s microcomputer. The CPU is a Siemens SAB8032AP, with an Intel P8256 peripheral IO chip. Between those and the EPROM are two MAXIM ICM7218 controllers for the...

This is the construction: ...so there are two bearings, marked '64' on the diagram - of type MR105ZZ according to the manual. 62 is a spring, so watch for that. 23 is the base-plate, which has about three black markings on it. The sensors are detecting that moving, so make sure it's not damaged.

In case anyone is curious, this is what the rectifier board looks like with the heat sink removed. The rectifiers are 15mm on a side and the pins are 10mm apart and usually completely hidden by the massive heat sink.