Treating my home studi (1st time)
- Thread starter Ninjaza
- Start date
BroKen_H
Re-member
AFA - as far as, materiel - the covering in front of the insulation (fabric).
Your steps on the process to build frames are right on the money. All my frames are 2'x2'x2" to make the pattern in the previous post. I have 2'x4'x4" ceiling clouds. I have purchased 6" bass traps on top of superchunk in two corners. My back two corners have doors in them, thus the red triangle in the corner (what you can't see is more 6" corner traps on the back wall.
Okay, so step one. Plan (measure twice, cut once). Use a cad program or a draw program or graph paper and a pencil to draw out your walls. Plan where and what you are going to place.
Step two. Make some marks. Get your pencil and make marks on the walls where things will need to be. My mistake you can learn from: I used a magic marker and some of the lines did not cover. Pencil can be erased.
Step three. Trap the corners. Superchunks are best on the wall you face, but corner traps work on the back wall and the wall/ceiling joints. You don't have to cover them all, but at least the four corners (or the front two corners and the ceiling/wall behind you).
Step four. Trap the ceiling. 38% rule applies. Your listening position should be 38% of the room length away from the wall you face. The ceiling cloud should be centered 1/2 way between your speaker and your ears. i.e. if your room is 10 meters long (probably not, but it makes the math easier for demonstration) then your listening position is 3.8 meters from the wall. That's where you want your chair. If you place your speakers .6 meter away from the wall, then the center of the ceiling cloud should be at (3.8+.6)/2 from the wall or 2.2 meters. You also want one at 2.2 from the back wall.
Your room should be sounding a LOT better at this point.
Step 5. Put some tall trapping on the back wall. A pair of 2'x4' traps with 4" or 6" depth, or preferably QRD (quadratic residue diffuser) panels. You'll have to google that one. They're not hard to build and there are several decent DIY vids on YouTube.
Step 6. Trap the sides. If you use a pattern and cover most of the wall, you will probably get away with 2". If you just want to cover primary reflections, you'll want 4" or 6". and now here I will fall away from the norm on this site. On the side walls, there is a use for foam and I think Ethan and John will agree with this point. If you put foam wedge over your side (and rear if you're not building QRDs) it will help your acoustics as they will help with scattering. I don't understand the mathematics behind what this does, but if you need help with that, PM Etan Winer or JHBrant.
Hope this is more to the point. Also, if you PM either of them, get a second opinion on what I'm saying as they have been doing this professionally for a long time!
A) Cut the 1x2 (or 1x4)
Your steps on the process to build frames are right on the money. All my frames are 2'x2'x2" to make the pattern in the previous post. I have 2'x4'x4" ceiling clouds. I have purchased 6" bass traps on top of superchunk in two corners. My back two corners have doors in them, thus the red triangle in the corner (what you can't see is more 6" corner traps on the back wall.
Okay, so step one. Plan (measure twice, cut once). Use a cad program or a draw program or graph paper and a pencil to draw out your walls. Plan where and what you are going to place.
Step two. Make some marks. Get your pencil and make marks on the walls where things will need to be. My mistake you can learn from: I used a magic marker and some of the lines did not cover. Pencil can be erased.
Step three. Trap the corners. Superchunks are best on the wall you face, but corner traps work on the back wall and the wall/ceiling joints. You don't have to cover them all, but at least the four corners (or the front two corners and the ceiling/wall behind you).
Step four. Trap the ceiling. 38% rule applies. Your listening position should be 38% of the room length away from the wall you face. The ceiling cloud should be centered 1/2 way between your speaker and your ears. i.e. if your room is 10 meters long (probably not, but it makes the math easier for demonstration) then your listening position is 3.8 meters from the wall. That's where you want your chair. If you place your speakers .6 meter away from the wall, then the center of the ceiling cloud should be at (3.8+.6)/2 from the wall or 2.2 meters. You also want one at 2.2 from the back wall.
Your room should be sounding a LOT better at this point.
Step 5. Put some tall trapping on the back wall. A pair of 2'x4' traps with 4" or 6" depth, or preferably QRD (quadratic residue diffuser) panels. You'll have to google that one. They're not hard to build and there are several decent DIY vids on YouTube.
Step 6. Trap the sides. If you use a pattern and cover most of the wall, you will probably get away with 2". If you just want to cover primary reflections, you'll want 4" or 6". and now here I will fall away from the norm on this site. On the side walls, there is a use for foam and I think Ethan and John will agree with this point. If you put foam wedge over your side (and rear if you're not building QRDs) it will help your acoustics as they will help with scattering. I don't understand the mathematics behind what this does, but if you need help with that, PM Etan Winer or JHBrant.
Hope this is more to the point. Also, if you PM either of them, get a second opinion on what I'm saying as they have been doing this professionally for a long time!
A) Cut the 1x2 (or 1x4)
Last edited:
mjbphotos
Moderator
yes, in the front corners - where the little roundtable is (you can throw out the flowers, they must be almost dead!) and the corner next to the cupboard. Then the back corners/wall - above the bed in that corner, and the corner/wall where the pantry door is - leave the door open, space acts like a trap because the sound moves into it, doesn't bounce back.
I have to think that Broken's comment on foam - when used with plenty of proper trapping - cannot hurt on side walls. I've got 12 sq ft of 4" wedge-style above the two side wall doors and above my back wall windows. It cost me next to nothing (a lot less than set of Mopads from Auralex), I really just wanted some high-density foam for monitor decouplers.
I have to think that Broken's comment on foam - when used with plenty of proper trapping - cannot hurt on side walls. I've got 12 sq ft of 4" wedge-style above the two side wall doors and above my back wall windows. It cost me next to nothing (a lot less than set of Mopads from Auralex), I really just wanted some high-density foam for monitor decouplers.
Thanks very much! hahah yea they are. I wanted to also ask, I thought I already did but either im losing it or It didnt go through.
Ive been struggling to track down rockwool but have finally found a place that has some in Cape Town. They have ISover 135mm thickness made for celings and all that. Would this be good as its pretty much all there is around here, and I can get it tomorrow. ? Could I just cut the sheets thinner and how thin would you suggest? I could just cut triangle shapes out of it?
PS Rockwool vs mineralwool = same thing right?
Thanks guys! Excited for this Sundays DIY pimp studio day!
Ive been struggling to track down rockwool but have finally found a place that has some in Cape Town. They have ISover 135mm thickness made for celings and all that. Would this be good as its pretty much all there is around here, and I can get it tomorrow. ? Could I just cut the sheets thinner and how thin would you suggest? I could just cut triangle shapes out of it?
PS Rockwool vs mineralwool = same thing right?
Thanks guys! Excited for this Sundays DIY pimp studio day!
BroKen_H
Re-member
On the back wall, I'd still recommend doing the ceiling/wall instead of wall/wall. The corner above the bed would be difficult to trap and not be in the way of the bed, but if you trap at the ceiling you can go from left to right all the way across. Yes, leaving the door open will also trap that corner! Nice catch, Mike.
jimmys69
MOODerator
Hey Broken, I wanted to address a quote you stated earlier.
"Be sure to spray the front of the insulation with a coating to keep the strands from fraying through the fabric and getting into your room...They're not fun to breathe".
I have never heard that anywhere and have had no problem with this myself. Giving some clarification as to what the coating might be would also be helpful as that could translate into any number of coatings that could cause more issues or negate some of the efficiency of the absorption panel.
"Be sure to spray the front of the insulation with a coating to keep the strands from fraying through the fabric and getting into your room...They're not fun to breathe".
I have never heard that anywhere and have had no problem with this myself. Giving some clarification as to what the coating might be would also be helpful as that could translate into any number of coatings that could cause more issues or negate some of the efficiency of the absorption panel.
You guys are bloody amazing! So thank you very much 
For the bass traps, how would you suggest I measure and cut the rockwool? Whats the process for this?
And for the ceiling/wall or floor/ceiling setup, whats the difference and why choose one over the other?
Could you please tell me the simple steps of making the Bass traps specifically (super chunks and corner)? How to measure etc? Dont want to mess it up!
Thanks so much
For the bass traps, how would you suggest I measure and cut the rockwool? Whats the process for this?
And for the ceiling/wall or floor/ceiling setup, whats the difference and why choose one over the other?
Could you please tell me the simple steps of making the Bass traps specifically (super chunks and corner)? How to measure etc? Dont want to mess it up!
Thanks so much
Sorry for all the questions guys, im a total acoustic noob. Im gonna have 150mm rockwool. How should I decide the lengths of the triangles? I read online that they should be 60cm (24 inch) or 34 (86 inch)
Being my room im guessing 60cm?
But are the triangles equliateral or? How can I do all the measurements for the superchunk triangles and subsequently the frame that's going to cover it?
Thanks so much again.
Being my room im guessing 60cm?
But are the triangles equliateral or? How can I do all the measurements for the superchunk triangles and subsequently the frame that's going to cover it?
Thanks so much again.
BroKen_H
Re-member
Hey Broken, I wanted to address a quote you stated earlier.
"Be sure to spray the front of the insulation with a coating to keep the strands from fraying through the fabric and getting into your room...They're not fun to breathe".
I have never heard that anywhere and have had no problem with this myself. Giving some clarification as to what the coating might be would also be helpful as that could translate into any number of coatings that could cause more issues or negate some of the efficiency of the absorption panel.
Glad you caught that. It was recommended to me to use some kind of coating for that reason at a home theater site I'm on. I searched at the time and never found any such thing besides some fray stop for fabric, so never did that step. And here I am passing on that same mis-info...Edited the original post so others don't come across the mislead on this site. Also edit my math on the ceiling cloud...had -.6 instead of +.6...
BroKen_H
Re-member
Definitely not equilateral. That would mean 3 60 degree angles. You want a 90 degree angle and two 45s. Basically, you cut a 2' x 2' square, then cut from corner to corner and should be both of your measurements. If my math is correct 24" squared plus 24" squared is 1152. So the square root of 1152 is just under 34".
There is a video for building your own traps and superchunks HERE.
There is a video for building your own QRDs HERE and HERE (demonstrates both types).
There is a video for building your own traps and superchunks HERE.
There is a video for building your own QRDs HERE and HERE (demonstrates both types).
mjbphotos
Moderator
Rockwool usually comes in 2'x4' pieces (at least in the USA), so you just make the wood frame to fit that size without cutting the rockwool at all. For corner superchunks, you cut the rock wool first into 2'x2' squares, then cut those into triangles, then stack the pieces in the corner. Ceiling-wall - make a trap and then hang it an angle across that junction.
With those chunks in the video he seems to have made a double frame?? I'm confused. Would it be better to have 2 frames over each other or just a single front frame?
Nvm thats for the normal bass traps along the sides. How many do I need to have on the sides? Do I need bass traps or normal panels for other parts besides the corner superchunks?
Nvm thats for the normal bass traps along the sides. How many do I need to have on the sides? Do I need bass traps or normal panels for other parts besides the corner superchunks?
AFA - as far as, materiel - the covering in front of the insulation (fabric).
Your steps on the process to build frames are right on the money. All my frames are 2'x2'x2" to make the pattern in the previous post. I have 2'x4'x4" ceiling clouds. I have purchased 6" bass traps on top of superchunk in two corners. My back two corners have doors in them, thus the red triangle in the corner (what you can't see is more 6" corner traps on the back wall.
Okay, so step one. Plan (measure twice, cut once). Use a cad program or a draw program or graph paper and a pencil to draw out your walls. Plan where and what you are going to place.
Step two. Make some marks. Get your pencil and make marks on the walls where things will need to be. My mistake you can learn from: I used a magic marker and some of the lines did not cover. Pencil can be erased.
Step three. Trap the corners. Superchunks are best on the wall you face, but corner traps work on the back wall and the wall/ceiling joints. You don't have to cover them all, but at least the four corners (or the front two corners and the ceiling/wall behind you).
Step four. Trap the ceiling. 38% rule applies. Your listening position should be 38% of the room length away from the wall you face. The ceiling cloud should be centered 1/2 way between your speaker and your ears. i.e. if your room is 10 meters long (probably not, but it makes the math easier for demonstration) then your listening position is 3.8 meters from the wall. That's where you want your chair. If you place your speakers .6 meter away from the wall, then the center of the ceiling cloud should be at (3.8+.6)/2 from the wall or 2.2 meters. You also want one at 2.2 from the back wall.
Your room should be sounding a LOT better at this point.
Step 5. Put some tall trapping on the back wall. A pair of 2'x4' traps with 4" or 6" depth, or preferably QRD (quadratic residue diffuser) panels. You'll have to google that one. They're not hard to build and there are several decent DIY vids on YouTube.
Step 6. Trap the sides. If you use a pattern and cover most of the wall, you will probably get away with 2". If you just want to cover primary reflections, you'll want 4" or 6". and now here I will fall away from the norm on this site. On the side walls, there is a use for foam and I think Ethan and John will agree with this point. If you put foam wedge over your side (and rear if you're not building QRDs) it will help your acoustics as they will help with scattering. I don't understand the mathematics behind what this does, but if you need help with that, PM Etan Winer or JHBrant.
Hope this is more to the point. Also, if you PM either of them, get a second opinion on what I'm saying as they have been doing this professionally for a long time!
A) Cut the 1x2 (or 1x4)
When you say corner traps in the back, do you mean just the corners? How would one make those?
BroKen_H
Re-member
I think for your room, the best advice you could get would be to trap the wall/ceiling left to right, meaning where the wall meets the ceiling, not upright (floor to ceiling) like the ones you will be facing facing. Use 6" (75mm) corner traps and hang them to the ceiling (or the back wall at the ceiling).