Weasel9992
New member
8" will be enough. The extra thickness/gap probably won't give you enough return to be worth the trouble.
Frank
Frank
Studio build design on 29 ft barge!
- Thread starter snitchdnb
- Start date
Okay Great, thanks alot Frank. ill will upload some more pictures soonish
thanks again
would it be worth superchunk'in the 2 back wall corners then straddeling a broadband absorber 4-6'' thick with a 2'' gap between them of it? or just superchunk it out.
sorry if this is stupid question.
Update every one, i have worked out a plan for the roof i am going to hire a welder to cut the steel roof square and scrap it, then from the exsiting steel canvas helti gun some CLS Struts into the steel. then build a 18mm ply roof with waterproof canva theres a special name for it, but i cant remember,
i will make the roof around 12ft high this will defanitly sort the room out.
this will not be for a while so, i will have to get use to how the room sounds and adapt my ears to it, i know my mointors off the back of my palm ive had them for 4 years so i know near enough when they lie.. or empashise.
the plan is to treat the first and second reflections with 4'' broadband absorbers and to treat 1 celling reflection with 1 4'' angled broadband absorber. build floor to celling length broadband absorbers 6'' thick, the door is at the back so i will place 1 4'' absorber on it, the back wall insulation wall will be insulated with 2'' thick rockwool RWA45 the wall will be made from 12mm ply and CLS batons. i will also create 2 free standing broadband absorbers 4'' thick to go behind the console which will be placed infront of the nose of the boat 'big corner' the big corner will be filled with an 8'' broadband absorber with an 8'' spacer. i should have the wall up in a few days so i will upload new pictures!
If any1 has any tips or idea's that will great.
thanks, Steve
i will make the roof around 12ft high this will defanitly sort the room out.
this will not be for a while so, i will have to get use to how the room sounds and adapt my ears to it, i know my mointors off the back of my palm ive had them for 4 years so i know near enough when they lie.. or empashise.
the plan is to treat the first and second reflections with 4'' broadband absorbers and to treat 1 celling reflection with 1 4'' angled broadband absorber. build floor to celling length broadband absorbers 6'' thick, the door is at the back so i will place 1 4'' absorber on it, the back wall insulation wall will be insulated with 2'' thick rockwool RWA45 the wall will be made from 12mm ply and CLS batons. i will also create 2 free standing broadband absorbers 4'' thick to go behind the console which will be placed infront of the nose of the boat 'big corner' the big corner will be filled with an 8'' broadband absorber with an 8'' spacer. i should have the wall up in a few days so i will upload new pictures!
If any1 has any tips or idea's that will great.
thanks, Steve
Update new pics!
hello again ive been working crazy so havent had time to post info or pictures but finally can now, and any additional help is greatful. ok so recently i have corner trapped the bow of the boat (the big corner at the front)
i super chunked it 1st
then i left a 16inch gap and made a frame that was fitted to the ply, i then stapled fabric to the back
then went on to make a 8'' panel of rockwool RWA45 then stappled the fabric again to hold tight using some crappy bedsheet i had which is fine cos i wont see it.
then i began to finish the walls with ply puttin the rwa45 inside too.
then i started to countine with the back walls puttin 4inches of the same rwa45 inside the wall with no spacer unfortunally as space is quite limited.
i then superchunked the corner, i cut the triangles at about 28''x14''
i then finished off the cladding on the walls . and purchased some pretty cheap light from b&q for a 10 in a sale. after the electrics were done.
i then got my mum to help me to stable the fabrics i bought from some shop down the road they were originally curtains but i cut the hem off and cut the back off.
Broadbander Door
this was a real pain in the arse. i wanted to try to consume space so i decided to build a door but which is still a broadband abso\arber so i made a frame began to hang it. the measurements were an ass because nothing is straight.
i put battons across the door to support it. the thickness of the door is 5inches thick so that i could make a 6'' broadband absorber and door with rockwool inside and fabric.
hello again ive been working crazy so havent had time to post info or pictures but finally can now, and any additional help is greatful. ok so recently i have corner trapped the bow of the boat (the big corner at the front)
i super chunked it 1st
then i left a 16inch gap and made a frame that was fitted to the ply, i then stapled fabric to the back
then went on to make a 8'' panel of rockwool RWA45 then stappled the fabric again to hold tight using some crappy bedsheet i had which is fine cos i wont see it.
then i began to finish the walls with ply puttin the rwa45 inside too.
then i started to countine with the back walls puttin 4inches of the same rwa45 inside the wall with no spacer unfortunally as space is quite limited.
i then superchunked the corner, i cut the triangles at about 28''x14''
i then finished off the cladding on the walls . and purchased some pretty cheap light from b&q for a 10 in a sale. after the electrics were done.
i then got my mum to help me to stable the fabrics i bought from some shop down the road they were originally curtains but i cut the hem off and cut the back off.
Broadbander Door
this was a real pain in the arse. i wanted to try to consume space so i decided to build a door but which is still a broadband abso\arber so i made a frame began to hang it. the measurements were an ass because nothing is straight.
i put battons across the door to support it. the thickness of the door is 5inches thick so that i could make a 6'' broadband absorber and door with rockwool inside and fabric.
Weasel9992
New member
I love the idea...it's the low, curved ceiling that's got me chewing my fingernails.
Frank
Frank
Weasel9992
New member
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "wedges". The only thing you could really do as I see it is build some 4" or 6" panels and hang them up there above the mix position.
Frank
Thanks
ok sounds good ill try this neway. would there be anything else i would really need to do, part from basics. and also what should i use for flooring? i can do eitha wood or carpet would be best ive seen a few question asked on this but never understood it correctly. thanks if u could help.
steve
ok sounds good ill try this neway. would there be anything else i would really need to do, part from basics. and also what should i use for flooring? i can do eitha wood or carpet would be best ive seen a few question asked on this but never understood it correctly. thanks if u could help.
steve
Weasel9992
New member
I'm not really a fan of carpet, but in your case that's probably what I'd do. The space is so small that I'd want to get decay times as low as possible. Every little bit will help.
Frank
Frank
thanks
thanks again frank.
finsihed the door today and will post pics in tommorrow also made the traps for the hatch. will puttin rockwool under the floorboards help? i cant put them central because there is a kill where the rainwater is collected. but i hope this will still help a tiny bit?
thanks again frank.
finsihed the door today and will post pics in tommorrow also made the traps for the hatch. will puttin rockwool under the floorboards help? i cant put them central because there is a kill where the rainwater is collected. but i hope this will still help a tiny bit?
hinged broadband traps?
ok i have been thinkin of an idea and please tell if its completely stupid but what about puttin the broadbanders on hinges? so they fold out. like kinda hard to explain.
if you say you have a 4 inch trap on hinges on the wall to fold out off the wall and for it to fold back to the wall where the reflection points are. say you make 2 traps n put them in a row will this not work better than its being flat against the wall? or what if the traps we're even slightly angled leaving a air gap but can be folded back when not needed? would this be pointless effort or would it improve the acoustics more? sorry if its stupid question.
my explaination is hard to understand sorry.
ok i have been thinkin of an idea and please tell if its completely stupid but what about puttin the broadbanders on hinges? so they fold out. like kinda hard to explain.
if you say you have a 4 inch trap on hinges on the wall to fold out off the wall and for it to fold back to the wall where the reflection points are. say you make 2 traps n put them in a row will this not work better than its being flat against the wall? or what if the traps we're even slightly angled leaving a air gap but can be folded back when not needed? would this be pointless effort or would it improve the acoustics more? sorry if its stupid question.
my explaination is hard to understand sorry.
Weasel9992
New member
That's not stupid at all...people do it all the time actually. They'll work just fine.
Frank
do they work better or just as good? thanks
New pics.
finished the fabric on the door, and put trim round to make look nice.
next i made the absorber for the hatch which is 4'' thick.
i hung it up by just putin 2 eye hooks in the trim around the hatch to hold it in place. works very well.
finished the right side superchunk and started to fabric it.
finished the fabric on the door, and put trim round to make look nice.
next i made the absorber for the hatch which is 4'' thick.
i hung it up by just putin 2 eye hooks in the trim around the hatch to hold it in place. works very well.
finished the right side superchunk and started to fabric it.
pics.
then floor corner traps. these may not be massively effective because there smallish but hopefully they will still make a difference. i cant remember the gap inbetween only like 4'' gap not too much. if these wont be that effective i will redo them. but there 6'' thick.
i ripped up some bits of rockwool n just placed it under them i dont atcually know why lol just thought it might help maybe lol. if not ill take it out.
then floor corner traps. these may not be massively effective because there smallish but hopefully they will still make a difference. i cant remember the gap inbetween only like 4'' gap not too much. if these wont be that effective i will redo them. but there 6'' thick.
i ripped up some bits of rockwool n just placed it under them i dont atcually know why lol just thought it might help maybe lol. if not ill take it out.
pics
i decided to clad the rest of the walls because it was easier, gave it a boaty feel 2. ive covered up all the windows in the boat because the windows we're atcually pointless. so small and useless none of them opened.
finshed the fabric on the floor traps. and just temporay put the alesis mointors theres just to see how it sounding need to make measurements properly and place them correctly i will bring the genelecs down after i have done the workstation.
IMAGE SHACK IS BEING GAY.
i decided to clad the rest of the walls because it was easier, gave it a boaty feel 2. ive covered up all the windows in the boat because the windows we're atcually pointless. so small and useless none of them opened.
finshed the fabric on the floor traps. and just temporay put the alesis mointors theres just to see how it sounding need to make measurements properly and place them correctly i will bring the genelecs down after i have done the workstation.
IMAGE SHACK IS BEING GAY.
Weasel9992
New member
So far so good. I think you're making the best out of a tough space. Really nice finish work.
Frank
Frank
thanks.
im really pleased with how the room is starting to sound once i do measurements ill post them.. notice the difference so much too my old room which had them crappy foam panels. the bass use to sit in the corner so much. and the half piece of my old room use to hold bass, use to sit under there and use to feel like a small club ha. so much cheaper to do it this way and more way more effective. with the celling im just going to cover a wide range of it to save money on buying frames. ill just fix the wood to the celling and then fill it and fabric it. on the front wall im going to superchunk where the half piece is just above n cover the windows. and put cladding on it and varnish it. just so the bass can be absorbed. theres no places where the bass just sits and hovers. really enjoying doing this. i really need more idea's to improve the acoustics.
1st reflections.
corners, floor corners, celling, rear wall, front wall, top corner.
im really pleased with how the room is starting to sound once i do measurements ill post them.. notice the difference so much too my old room which had them crappy foam panels. the bass use to sit in the corner so much. and the half piece of my old room use to hold bass, use to sit under there and use to feel like a small club ha. so much cheaper to do it this way and more way more effective. with the celling im just going to cover a wide range of it to save money on buying frames. ill just fix the wood to the celling and then fill it and fabric it. on the front wall im going to superchunk where the half piece is just above n cover the windows. and put cladding on it and varnish it. just so the bass can be absorbed. theres no places where the bass just sits and hovers. really enjoying doing this. i really need more idea's to improve the acoustics.
1st reflections.
corners, floor corners, celling, rear wall, front wall, top corner.