Sticky Shed Help Thread

Yeah, I was just worried about SSS...I have asked before about LPR35 being prone and IIRC it is not but I still worry...:confused:

I got five 1800' reels with boxes for under $29 including shipping.
 
So the reels of LPR35 came yesterday. Won't have a chance to test them for a bit (one 388 is in pieces, the other as a bum reel motor and the BR-20T has a sticky pinch roller on its way to Terry Witt...), but I'll post back once I do.

All is good except, according to what appears to be the factory leader tape, one of the reels is LP35...all the boxes are the same, all the reels are the same, and all the tape looks the same (back-coated) but one reel has leader tape labeled LP35 and all the rest say LPR35. No big deal...I don't think the seller realized it and I still got 5 1800' rolls with reels and boxes for $29 shipped, and they all look to be in good condition...no edge damage or splices as far as I can see. BUT, I must say I much prefer buying new tape. I don't like all the unknowns that go along with used tape unless it is coming fom a known and trusted source...just couldn't pass up the LPR35 since I need tape for my 388.
 
Beck said:
The ones with the AMPEX logo in the middle of the box are from 1993 and older. They are using the old binder. There’s a good chance the box with the logo across the bottom like you have pictured will be fine.
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I have a dozen NIB reels of Ampex 407 that I bought from some guy off the net 7 years ago. Never got around to opening one until today. Tried one out today and, yup -- you guessed it -- it's sticky. And I thought at the time that I had really done my homework and that the stuff I had bought was safe.:( Well, at least I only paid $67 for the lot postpaid, so I didn't get burned too badly. Guess I'll chuck the tape and keep the reels and boxes.

FYI, these were manufactured in Redwood City, California. The barcode label on the box says 94084 -- I take it that means it was manufactured in '94? The logo is across the bottom of the box, so whether it's in the middle or at the bottom is not a reliable indication of whether the tape is sticky or not.

Honestly, I'd stay away from any Ampex-branded tape at this point, unless it's the so-called "voice grade" red-oxide stuff that is known not to have this problem.
 
Igor Alexander said:
I have a dozen NIB reels of Ampex 407 that I bought from some guy off the net 7 years ago. Never got around to opening one until today. Tried one out today and, yup -- you guessed it -- it's sticky. And I thought at the time that I had really done my homework and that the stuff I had bought was safe.:( Well, at least I only paid $67 for the lot postpaid, so I didn't get burned too badly. Guess I'll chuck the tape and keep the reels and boxes.

FYI, these were manufactured in Redwood City, California. The barcode label on the box says 94084 -- I take it that means it was manufactured in '94? The logo is across the bottom of the box, so whether it's in the middle or at the bottom is not a reliable indication of whether the tape is sticky or not.

Honestly, I'd stay away from any Ampex-branded tape at this point, unless it's the so-called "voice grade" red-oxide stuff that is known not to have this problem.
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Bummer!

Yep, you got one of the rare batches after the box design had changed, but before the tape formulation had changed. Your tape is from early 1994. Late 1994 and newer is the new formulation. The box style is helpful if you don't have a date on the box, but is not 100% due to this small window in early '94.

As mentioned in an earlier post (buried somewhere here) it’s best to go with Ampex/Quantegy made 1995 – 2004. Those dates will keep you out of trouble. It's really late 1994 to early 2005, but to be sure you should eliminate the partial years.

I’ve seen no problems at all with Ampex going back to 1995.
 
Lot code or date code of Quantegy?

Beck said:
Bummer!

Yep, you got one of the rare batches after the box design had changed, but before the tape formulation had changed. Your tape is from early 1994. Late 1994 and newer is the new formulation. The box style is helpful if you don't have a date on the box, but is not 100% due to this small window in early '94.

As mentioned in an earlier post (buried somewhere here) it’s best to go with Ampex/Quantegy made 1995 – 2004. Those dates will keep you out of trouble. It's really late 1994 to early 2005, but to be sure you should eliminate the partial years.

I’ve seen no problems at all with Ampex going back to 1995.
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How does one read the lot code or date code of Quantegy tape? I bought some and the only thing on the label that could be such is "2000319."

Thanks,

jv
 
jviss said:
How does one read the lot code or date code of Quantegy tape? I bought some and the only thing on the label that could be such is "2000319."

Thanks,

jv
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I answered this in a reply to a PM, but thought what the heck... I should probably answer it here too.

2000319 means the tape was made on day 319 of the year 2000. Before the year 2000 you might see two different styles for the date code. For example, I have Ampex branded Quantegy stamped 97058 and 1998317. The former was made on day 58 of the year 1997 and the latter made on day 317 of the year 1998.
 
good or bad tape?

200507723971


thanks,
-Mike

mikerobby@hotmail.com

looking for NOS for my 388
 
tape shedding

Very new to tape. in the last few days been doing some tracking on a TSR8 and its leaving little shavings of tape behind! Is this normal?
 
desmond22 said:
Very new to tape. in the last few days been doing some tracking on a TSR8 and its leaving little shavings of tape behind! Is this normal?
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I noticed in another thread you're using ATR tape and you've had tension sensor issues with this TSR-8. ATR shouldn't be shedding badly, so I suspect the tension may be too high and/or the tape path has some sharp edges worn in it from use. All tapes shed a little oxide... that's normal, but it shouldn't be peeling off in shavings.

Another thing to note is that the tape tension will need to be recalibrated for ATR if it's still factory set for Ampex/Quantegy 456. I don't recommend ATR for long-term use on something like the TSR-8, but it won't hurt for temporary use until you get another kind of tape. If you stay with ATR tape it's going to be hard on the tape path and transport.

:)
 
mrobby said:
200507723971


thanks,
-Mike

mikerobby@hotmail.com

looking for NOS for my 388
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I looked at the eBay listing associated with the pic. It's older AMPEX stuff that will likely have or develop sticky shed, so I would avoid tape with that box style in the future. Look for Quantegy brand 407 or 457, RMGI LPR35, Maxell XLI 35-90B.
 
3m 250

I bought a reel of unused 3M 250 off eBay strictly for the reel + box... I have no plans to use the tape itself, I just want the reel hardware.

But I want to know: is 3M 250 known to have sticky shed problems? And, what operating level is this tape??
 
Um...don't quote me on the sticky prone-ness of the tape, but I believe it is on the watch list.

It is "+6" tape.
 
sweetbeats said:
Um...don't quote me on the sticky prone-ness of the tape, but I believe it is on the watch list.

It is "+6" tape.
Click to expand...

I bid on the auction assuming that it might be. I just love the 3M reels... they make great takeup reels. I'm gonna chuck the tape in the trash and let it nowhere near my machines!
 
I have about 25 10" reels of 1/4" Ampex 456 from the late 80s that have been in storage in a dry area of California - but I am going to assume I run into "sticky" issues. Experts seems to say don't even TRY to play these tapes without baking them first. Is that absolutely true - or would trying hurt something? Assuming "Bake First" is the hard rule - I will get a food dehydrator and treat each of them before attempting to retrieve the audio and transfer it to digital.

Question -

Many of these reels are unevenly packed. Some experts say - don't bake unevenly packed reels. BUT - I can't play them to even them out for baking, without encountering sticky problems. I'm stumped. How do I get them evened out without playing them, prior to baking then? The only machine I have is a Teac A3340S.

Question 2 - What is the best solvent to clean sticky shed off of a deck in between reels?
 
CaliGal said:
I have about 25 10" reels of 1/4" Ampex 456 from the late 80s that have been in storage in a dry area of California - but I am going to assume I run into "sticky" issues. Experts seems to say don't even TRY to play these tapes without baking them first. Is that absolutely true - or would trying hurt something? Assuming "Bake First" is the hard rule - I will get a food dehydrator and treat each of them before attempting to retrieve the audio and transfer it to digital.

Question -

Many of these reels are unevenly packed. Some experts say - don't bake unevenly packed reels. BUT - I can't play them to even them out for baking, without encountering sticky problems. I'm stumped. How do I get them evened out without playing them, prior to baking then? The only machine I have is a Teac A3340S.

Question 2 - What is the best solvent to clean sticky shed off of a deck in between reels?
Click to expand...

I don't see why an uneven pack would make any difference in the baking process. You do want to be careful not to damage the exposed edges of the tape, though.

Proper head and rubber cleaners will clean off the gunk left by any shedding tape. It just takes longer and more of it with sticky shed residue.
 
RRuskin said:
I don't see why an uneven pack would make any difference in the baking process. You do want to be careful not to damage the exposed edges of the tape, though.

Proper head and rubber cleaners will clean off the gunk left by any shedding tape. It just takes longer and more of it with sticky shed residue.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply!

It was Eddie Ciletti who said it actually - "Baking uneven tape will damage the edges because they get too hot and then you'll have permanent artifacts in the stereo image." NOTE # 1 at the bottom of this page on the topic - http://www.tangible-technology.com/tape/baking1.html

I would simply bake first were it not for this - but at this point, I hope to do the very most I can do in advance to optimize my chances of recovery.

The good news -
I only want to play these ONCE - just to transfer everything.
They have been stored in a very dry city, indoors.
 
CaliGal said:
Thank you for the reply!

It was Eddie Ciletti who said it actually - "Baking uneven tape will damage the edges because they get too hot and then you'll have permanent artifacts in the stereo image." NOTE # 1 at the bottom of this page on the topic - http://www.tangible-technology.com/tape/baking1.html

I would simply bake first were it not for this - but at this point, I hope to do the very most I can do in advance to optimize my chances of recovery.

The good news -
I only want to play these ONCE - just to transfer everything.
They have been stored in a very dry city, indoors.
Click to expand...

IMHO - any artifacts he mentions would be due to the long time storage of the unevenly packed tape and not the baking process.

My advice would be to try to play the tape(s) in question but stop the moment you hear any physical squealing. Do not leave the machine unattended! If squealing and/or sticking occurs, wind the tape off by hand and bake it.
 
I had a discussion with Ciletti a couple years ago and afterwards he said he was considering revising the part about playing the tape first before baking... but the site appears to have been stagnant for a long time. Most of the info there is good, but hasn't been updated in a while.

I strongly disagree with any recommendation to spool the tape so it's even. That's the one sure way to irreversibly damage sticky-shed tape… not to mention what it does to the machine. When you see and hear tape peeling off and falling apart on your heads you'll know what I mean. It's a hideous sound.

During the baking process the tape loosens and falls neatly to the bottom reel anyway. Only after that does the tape need to be wound at Play or Spooling speed.

:)


CaliGal said:
I have about 25 10" reels of 1/4" Ampex 456 from the late 80s that have been in storage in a dry area of California - but I am going to assume I run into "sticky" issues. Experts seems to say don't even TRY to play these tapes without baking them first. Is that absolutely true - or would trying hurt something? Assuming "Bake First" is the hard rule - I will get a food dehydrator and treat each of them before attempting to retrieve the audio and transfer it to digital.

Question -

Many of these reels are unevenly packed. Some experts say - don't bake unevenly packed reels. BUT - I can't play them to even them out for baking, without encountering sticky problems. I'm stumped. How do I get them evened out without playing them, prior to baking then? The only machine I have is a Teac A3340S.

Question 2 - What is the best solvent to clean sticky shed off of a deck in between reels?
Click to expand...
 
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