respraying an old outboard unit? any advice?

cjacek

cjacek

Analogue Enthusiast
Hi,

I have this old outboard rack mount reverb unit that I was going to get rid of due to its cosmetic condition and a few other faults but then I started to think about ways to possibly refurbish it. It's got bad scratches, not on the face or back but on every other side. I was thinking of covering up the face, back and power cord (with plastic and the green painter's tape) and taking it to some car body shop place to have them respray it. What would something like this typically cost? Is this a good idea? Any thoughts? I've never done this before so...... any advice where to go and whatnot would be helpful. The unit is all metal, the typical black color that they used in most 80's rack gear.

Thanks! :)
 
I would think full dis-assembly of the parts in question to be repainted would be the superior way to go about doing something like that. Masking off areas not to be painted seems risky to me because of the masking job isn't 100% perfect, you'll end up with over spray or spotty lines if the tape doesn't adhere 100% to the surfaces.

Not sure what a pro paint shop would charge to do the individual pieces but I'm sure a couple of calls to the local body shops would clear that up.

Good luck with the project! :)

Cheers :)
 
A couple of things:

Do you have it in a rack? You say that the face is OK, if so, and it is in a rack whats the gripe?

If its not in a rack and the face is in good condition, why not consider a small rack unit to mount it in?

Last but not least. I can see masking the rear panel and front panel and shooting the rest with a rattle can. Light light coats are the key. There is a huge range of paint in cans out there that will closely match what ever finish is currently on there.
 
@Jeff (The Ghost of FM): That would definitely be ideal, taking out the electronics and respraying the whole thing but the front and back has names of various controls / connectors in white lettering. I would have to mask it from any spraying that would be done. I'm just concerned that the body shop would indeed possibly screw it up, as you suggested might happen, the tape peeling off, over-spray etc.. Hm, now not sure what I'll do.... I'll try calling a few places and see what they say.

@mdainsd: Yeah, I can see how it might look silly to be concerned about things like that but it just bothers me. It's not in a rack currently but even if it was, I'd still be wanting to make it nice looking. All my gear is pretty minty and bad scratches like that just don't sit well with me. I might look into your suggestion of possibly finding a paint can, doing it myself but still unsure about that.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the replies.
 
Would something like this work?
Super Black Touch-Up Pen Flat Black [15102] - $6.95 : US Armorment, The Art & Science of Shooting. Shop For Shooting Supplies, Ammunition, Rifle Scopes, Gun Parts & Accessories

Here's the description:

An easy and effective way to touch-up nicks, scratches and worn areas of black anodized aluminum or black painted surfaces. The pen contains a fast drying, lead-free paint with superior adhesion and durability that helps fill in deep scratches or worn areas. These special formulations are for use on matte finished alloy gun receivers, trigger guards, scopes, binoculars, cameras, flashlights, fishing reels and other sporting accessories. Use like a marking pen with no mess – simply rub on with “chisel point” felt tip.
Click to expand...
 
Re-finishing body parts is a mix of science, art and bloody hard work!

If you are to cover the scratches you need to fill them with body filler compound, rub down, flat off, degrease, tack cloth it, prime, if there is rust, rust killer or at least an acid etch primer. Last of all, top coat of wanted colour. ....Or, buy tin of Satin Finish Hammerite and a brush.

Dave.
 
I just emailed a local powder coating place. I'll see what happens with that. Thanks again for all of your replies.
 
Masking out the labelling is a poor solution, even with a nice new re spray, which you could do yourself, there will be rectangular blocks slightly recessed where each label is. On the back you may get away with it, but on the front it will look awful. The paint layer adds quite a depth, so there will be a step where each control or button label masking went. Never seen a good patch up job. Rack mount kit rarely looks pretty, and if you have a tatty unit, I'd question spending more than it's worth in time and money on prettying it up in a way that will rob it of resale value. I would never buy a resprayed unit, but be happy with a tatty one.
 
I'm currently rebuilding a 3M 79. Took off the remote case, the remote frame, the power supply lid, all a bit rusted.
Took them to a sandblaster and painter. $60 for three items, basic black. Not as good as new but pretty close.
 
Daniel, can you post a pic or two? I've fixed up a lot of stuff like you're describing just by sanding, priming and respraying with rattle cans. Cheap and pretty easy. Of course it ideal to have the parts to be refinished isolated, but it can be done otherwise if that's not reasonably feasible. Really, as has been suggested, if the scratches are deep and numerous the right way to do it is to take a whole section down to metal and respray the whole section rather than touch up or patching. You won't be happy with it I think. I have taken stuff to a body shop before with mixed results...overal okay, but I've resorted to this when there is color-matching involved and the work will be highly visible. The meter ridge of the M-__ is one such example. Otherwise if it's black I'll typically do it myself. Did a WHOLE lot of my motorcycle this way.
 
Cory, I'd send it to you if the shipping wasn't so damn expensive.:facepalm:

Here's a couple of photos for you and Jeff. :)

DSCF8163.JPGDSCF8164.JPGDSCF8162.JPGDSCF8161.JPG
 
Thanks for posting the pics, Daniel. Interesting unit! :)

So, it's basically a two piece cabinet. front, top and rear apron: all one piece and sides and bottom, the second. Now I have a better idea of the dilemma of not getting any over spray on the face via masking which would seem to be the only way if you're spraying. At least the gouges don't appear too deep or brutal and there's no rust, so maybe that touch up pen might be able to cover over some of the milder scratches? I suppose you could always experiment with that pen you mentioned, on the bottom panel first to see how effective it is, as well as how close the color match really is. Black comes in a multitude of shades and age also will fade the color of what's there on the unit.

Cheers! :)
 
Thanks Jeff..... I might experiment with the pen but I might not be satisfied with it, as Cory mentioned. I probably won't be and he knows it. :D I'd rather do it properly with the sanding and respray but that's way more involved. In case I decide to go the proper way, what's the best sand paper grit number to get? Sorry but what does "priming" involve? Also, are there rattle can paints which are toxic free? Thanks! :o
 
OK, forget the "toxic free" spray paints. I'd like to know if you have a preference as far as products go for this particular application. This is what I have access to:
http://www.homedepot.ca/catalog/spray-paint-and-accessories/172834

I then put in "spray paint black" and here are the narrowed results:
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchView?catalogId=10051&storeId=10051&langId=-15&N=0&Ntt=spray+paint+black&Nty=1&D=spray+paint+black&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&s=true

Thanks again. :)
 
RUSTOLEUMPt 2X Semi Gloss Black 340G My recommendation. It's not water based. If color or sheen match needs to be done then you can get the same brand Semi or satin clear and spray EVERYTHING. Might need to "back out" those level lights and cover them. Also remove the switches temporarily. But personally on the application you have there..I would just sand with some #600 grit wet/dry paper then spray the case that's scratched.

I have done some pretty good touch-up over the years. Just recently a Tascam rolling rack. It was satin Black and still had some fairly good sticker-ed "orange" Tascam lettering. So I covered the lettering with green painters tape, Fogged the area around the tape with the above recommended satin black then re-painted the rest of the rack with the black satin. After that dried I removed the tape then re-sprayed the entire rack including the lettered areas with clear satin of the same rustoleum brand. Looks great!
 
Thanks, I appreciate the info.

What do you think of this:
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/universal-black-hammered/968809

The case on mine looks to have a bit of a "pebbled finish", when looking really close up, and might not look right with a smooth coat. Plus it [the "hammered" paint] might cover up any imperfections (due to less than ideal sanding and prepping) better than a straight black. What do you think?
 
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