Muttley, Advice if You Please

Zaphod B

Raccoons-Be-Gone, Inc.
Mutt, I have a Fender Telecaster that's giving me a couple of problems. It's an American Deluxe Ash Tele, fairly new (2007 I think).

First: The high E string keeps popping out of the nut, because the slot is very shallow. Short of having a new nut cut, do you think installing a string tee would help (by increasing the break angle)? If so, how far above the nut should it be?

Second: This guitar has a poly finish, which was applied to the surface of the fretboard as well as everywhere else. That finish on the fretboard creates a lot of drag and makes it difficult for me to navigate compared to my other guitars (all of which have rosewood fingerboards). Any suggestions as to how to reduce the friction? I've already tried talc and WD-40 but they both just disappeared leaving no trace of anything so they're no help. :D
 
Mutt, I have a Fender Telecaster that's giving me a couple of problems. It's an American Deluxe Ash Tele, fairly new (2007 I think).

First: The high E string keeps popping out of the nut, because the slot is very shallow. Short of having a new nut cut, do you think installing a string tee would help (by increasing the break angle)? If so, how far above the nut should it be?

Second: This guitar has a poly finish, which was applied to the surface of the fretboard as well as everywhere else. That finish on the fretboard creates a lot of drag and makes it difficult for me to navigate compared to my other guitars (all of which have rosewood fingerboards). Any suggestions as to how to reduce the friction? I've already tried talc and WD-40 but they both just disappeared leaving no trace of anything so they're no help. :D

1. Fix the nut with a new one.
2. Not much can be done with the fretboard without a ton of work. IE: remove the poly finish and re-do with actual laquer, You really can't leave a maple fretboard unfinished.
3. I am not Muttley.
 
The top E, You don't always need a string tree. Sometimes you do. It largely depends on the gauge of the string and the break angle you have. I make mine so they don't have them but I cut the headstock a few mm deeper than a traditional strat or tele. You can deepen the slot or fix a string tree either would work but deepening the slot may lower the action and cause buzzing at the nut. If it plays as you like it go the string tree route but try winding the string a little lower on the post first if you can that may help. A close up pic may help me with a definite answer.

The fingerboard itself. Maple boards are what they are. They definitely have a different feel to rosewood or ebony as you know. That said you shouldn't find that they cause "drag" or resistance. If anything I find the opposite true. If there is still quite a bit of finish on it you can buff them out and polish them up with a very fine cutting compound but be careful how far you go. Once you go through the finish it's a refinish or relic job. Poly finish is quite tough and you should be able to buff it out if it's got scratches. Don't attempt to buff out string grooves that may have appeared over time. That would almost certainly end in tears.

If you have any reservations about doing any of the above a good luthier or guitar tech will do them a very little cost. None of the above is time consuming or fiddly.
 
From memory the American Deluxe Ash Tele had a satin finish? Is this one of them..

No, this one has a high-gloss finish all over, including on the fingerboard. Some of it really needs to be knocked back I think, or at least deglossed. There is not a big amount play time on this instrument but even so, as tough as this finish on the fretboard seems to be there are few signs of wear. I have used the services of a good luthier nearby, and I guess I'll take it in.

Regarding the nut situation, the break angle as is right now is very very shallow. Since that tuner is up at the top of the headstock I don't think that getting the string winds down lower on the post are going to help much. Also, I don't think the slot can stand being deepened (because of the possibility of buzzing, as you mentioned), so I think I'll try the string tee solution. I'll have the luthier do that while he's looking at the neck finish situation.

Thanks, Mutt. :)
 
After about a month of buying my 50th ann. strat I started to notice some drag.After close inspection I realized that the frets had a coat(or 2)of finish on them.I used a thin pc of plastic to protect the fretboard and gently scraped it off of each fret.Cant recall what I used to scrape the tight spots,but I took my time and got it all off.Made a huge difference in the way that guitar plays.
 
Back in the "old days" Fender nickel frets always needed to be 'broken in' by wearing away that protective finish by playing.
 
I'm thinking that guitar will never work right. It sounds really messed up bad, man.

I think you should just cut your losses and move on. You should bring the guitar to Westfest and I'll just take it off your hands, so you don't have to be frustrated and angry about it any more.

It's win/win.

Think about it.
 
Back in the "old days" Fender nickel frets always needed to be 'broken in' by wearing away that protective finish by playing.

This is true. They never used to stone off the lacquer. Some of the imports are just the same but it takes no time ton wear off as there is little or no bond between fret and lacquer. A good store will have had that take care of though if they do a half decent setup.. I haven't experienced that on the US models but it may or may not be the case.
 
After about a month of buying my 50th ann. strat I started to notice some drag.After close inspection I realized that the frets had a coat(or 2)of finish on them.I used a thin pc of plastic to protect the fretboard and gently scraped it off of each fret.Cant recall what I used to scrape the tight spots,but I took my time and got it all off.Made a huge difference in the way that guitar plays.

Back in the "old days" Fender nickel frets always needed to be 'broken in' by wearing away that protective finish by playing.

This is true. They never used to stone off the lacquer. Some of the imports are just the same but it takes no time ton wear off as there is little or no bond between fret and lacquer. A good store will have had that take care of though if they do a half decent setup.. I haven't experienced that on the US models but it may or may not be the case.

Oh, I had the finish flaking off the frets for a couple of weeks after buying this Tele. But that's all gone and I believe it's the gloss finish on top of the maple fretboard that's causing the drag.
 
I'm thinking that guitar will never work right. It sounds really messed up bad, man.

I think you should just cut your losses and move on. You should bring the guitar to Westfest and I'll just take it off your hands, so you don't have to be frustrated and angry about it any more.

It's win/win.

Think about it.

OK, I've thought about it.

:laughings: :laughings: :laughings: :laughings: :laughings:
 
Oh, I had the finish flaking off the frets for a couple of weeks after buying this Tele. But that's all gone and I believe it's the gloss finish on top of the maple fretboard that's causing the drag.

Under close examination is there any significant wear on the finish? Also what strings are you using?

I'm not sure what you guys would use as a similar product bet here I always have a Goddards silver cloth handy in the workshop to buff and clean frets and fingerboards that don't need any cutting or polishing. Maybe get one if you haven't already and give it a go. It won't cut back any rough lacquer but it will shine the frets and polish up the fingerboard.

Failing that I would look into cutting back lightly and buffing out using really fine cutting compound. It's really hard to advise on this without having it infront of me so lets start with the least problematic solutions.
 
Mutt, there is no significant wear on the fretboard finish. I use Dean Markely "vintage" nickel steel strings, 10-46 regular gauge, and keep fresh sets on.

This has been an issue since I purchased the guitar new. I really believe that the drag is a product of the high gloss on the fretboard. It would not hurt my feelings at all to take it down to the maple and oil it, if it would help the guitar play more easily without harming anything.
 
Mutt, there is no significant wear on the fretboard finish. I use Dean Markely "vintage" nickel steel strings, 10-46 regular gauge, and keep fresh sets on.

This has been an issue since I purchased the guitar new. I really believe that the drag is a product of the high gloss on the fretboard. It would not hurt my feelings at all to take it down to the maple and oil it, if it would help the guitar play more easily without harming anything.

An oil finish will not help. The maple would end up looking terrible in no time at all. Thats the reason there is quite a hard finish on maple necks.

I'm not patronising you here but how many maple necks have you played on and were they significantly different?
 
An oil finish will not help. The maple would end up looking terrible in no time at all. Thats the reason there is quite a hard finish on maple necks.

I'm not patronising you here but how many maple necks have you played on and were they significantly different?

No offense taken, Mutt. In fact, this is the first guitar I have ever owned with a maple fretboard. All the others have either rosewood or (the Martin) ebony boards.

But I've played a few in the past and have never noticed this. Maybe it's because I didn't spend much time on them, or maybe it's because they were played-in a bit.

This Tele has wonderful tone but it's just damned difficult to get up and down the neck compared to my others.
 
An oil finish will not help. The maple would end up looking terrible in no time at all. Thats the reason there is quite a hard finish on maple necks.

Terrible of course is subject to a certain amount of interpretation - I happen to love the look of a grungy old maple board on a Strat or Tele. :D

Also, FWIW I have a '97 USA Fender with a butterscotch tinted gloss neck finish. I definitely had to chip off the finish over the frets, but then again mine was a special order that never made it out to the showfloor and almost certainly never needed a setup - I think they just ordered it, opened it up, looked at it in the case, and then handed it to me.

I was 17 and had been saving forever for the thing, so I was of course ecstatic. :D
 
Terrible of course is subject to a certain amount of interpretation - I happen to love the look of a grungy old maple board on a Strat or Tele. :D

Also, FWIW I have a '97 USA Fender with a butterscotch tinted gloss neck finish. I definitely had to chip off the finish over the frets, but then again mine was a special order that never made it out to the showfloor and almost certainly never needed a setup - I think they just ordered it, opened it up, looked at it in the case, and then handed it to me.

I was 17 and had been saving forever for the thing, so I was of course ecstatic. :D

That sort of relicing takes time though not a handful of 80 grit.;)

Take a look at Rory Gallagher's old strat. That was a beauty. Saw him a few times and met him as well. I can't begin to tell you how he used to treat that thing. :o
 
No offense taken, Mutt. In fact, this is the first guitar I have ever owned with a maple fretboard. All the others have either rosewood or (the Martin) ebony boards.

But I've played a few in the past and have never noticed this. Maybe it's because I didn't spend much time on them, or maybe it's because they were played-in a bit.

This Tele has wonderful tone but it's just damned difficult to get up and down the neck compared to my others.

Best advice right now then is treat yourself to a trip to a good guitar store and have a play on a few others see how they compare. It could just be a feel thing that you can get past eventually. If not get a second opinion from a hands on guy you trust.
 
Best advice right now then is treat yourself to a trip to a good guitar store and have a play on a few others see how they compare. It could just be a feel thing that you can get past eventually. If not get a second opinion from a hands on guy you trust.

Sounds good, Mutt. :)

Last night I got out my pocketknife and had a scrape at the sides of the frets. They're loaded with poly. When I come due for a string change I'm going to get the frets as clean as possible. Maybe that will help a little.
 
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