How Would I Go About Treating a Control Room/Mixing Area?

T

The Engineer

New member
Is there any internet site's that anybody could point me to, or have any suggestions? I'm mixing in my bedroom, and it's a square 10X12 room. My budget is anywhere around $500-$1,000. Any help?
 
The Engineer said:
Is there any internet site's that anybody could point me to, or have any suggestions? I'm mixing in my bedroom, and it's a square 10X12 room. My budget is anywhere around $500-$1,000. Any help?
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This is a link to a wealth of info about acoustically treating a room. There is not a lot of info regarding suppliers but once you know what you need you can search your local retailers for the products required!


http://www.ethanwiner.com/acoustics.html

I hope this helps!
 
Thanks Gorty. $199.99 per 2X4 Mini-traps!! I guess I'ma have to start saving. I just read in another post that a member put 2 minitraps in his vocal booth and that helped clear up the mudiness and created a better bass response.

Thanks for the post, Gorty.
 
The Engineer said:
Thanks Gorty. $199.99 per 2X4 Mini-traps!! I guess I'ma have to start saving. I just read in another post that a member put 2 minitraps in his vocal booth and that helped clear up the mudiness and created a better bass response.

Thanks for the post, Gorty.
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You're Welcome, glad to be of assistance!

You can always make them yourself, not a lot of work and a hell of a lot cheaper!

Gorty.
 
How would I go about making them myself, Gorty?
Well, I have a quick story. I was at work today and I found out that one of my co-workers is a retired construction engineer. He said it would be best to staple gun rigid fiberglass over the walls, then get long enough screws and buy 1/2" sheetrock, then screw them into the studs in the wall. (Sort of like double layered walls)

Will that work just as good? Then maybe later on I could add some minitraps to my liking ...

Thank you.
 
Hello Engineer. Do yourself a favor. Do a search here on Owens Corning 703, and or rigid fiberglass. If you can't find all the answers in less than a half hour you are doing something wrong. :) BTW, drywall is for adding mass to a wall. Double the mass(both sides), and at best you will get is 6db improvement in transmission loss. However, it has nothing to do with treatment. In fact, your friend almost cheated you out of lowering the bandwidth of absorption, by telling you to staple the fiberglass to the wall. Do a search and you will find out why.
fitZ
 
I'm 18 and he's 82 (not my friend) he knows nothing about sound absorption but that's just what he suggested. Rick I saw a thread where they sell Rigid Fiberglass 703 in various states, but they didn't sell it in my state. So my question is ... does Home Depot or Lowes sell this type of fiberglass?

And I will continue my search, thanks for the kick in the ass.
 
I was reading Ethan Winer's article and it says you can use 703 to absorb low frequencies OR mid-high frequencies.

It said when used with ply-wood, the 703 will absorb low frequencies. Then it said if you just fabricate the 703, then that will absorb the mid-high frequencies?

I'll keep reading though, sheeeeeeeesh.
 
It said when used with ply-wood, the 703 will absorb low frequencies. Then it said if you just fabricate the 703, then that will absorb the mid-high frequencies?
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Hello Engineer. Sorry if my reply was less than cordial. The fact is I have written so many replys in regards to this I've grown tired of it. But just to show you I am trying to help, I will explain something to you

No, the use of plywood with rigid fiberglass means nothing. On its own, rigid fiberglass will absorb a broadband of frequencies, when leaned up against a wall. There is nothing special about this property. Absorptiion is accomplished by resistiance to air molecule movement within the "interstices" of the fibers. This energy is turned into heat, just as a resistance to electron movement in certain types of wire. Theoretically, the THICKNESS of the panel determines the lowest frequency of absorption, as molecular velocity is ZERO at a boundary, and pressure is maximum. This means 1/4 wavelength is the point of maximum velocity, which in effect means the thickness of the panel determines the lowest 1/4 wavelength that will get absorbed. Move the panel away from the wall and you lower the bandwidth of absorption. A 2" thick panel spaced from the wall 1" wlll have approximately the same absorption coeffecients as a 3" panel. Understand. In otherwords, you have increased the 1/4 wavelength distance of absorption.
Where the plywood comes in is simply a way to wrap the panels in fabric and have a surface to STAPLE the fabric to. Again, you can space the fiberglass away from the plywood with a spacer of some type to increase the panels apparent thickness. This creates an AIRGAP.
As to low frequency absorption, placement location is the key. Since room MODES, which are resonances determined by the three room dimensions, terminate in the corners, panels of fiberglass placed across these corners will have a BETTER absorption coeffecient at these frequencies, than placed flat on a wall. Even across wall/ceiling and wall/floor intersections.
fitZ
 
I've noticed you've been leaving alot of feedback on these types of questions, I can only imagine your getting sick of it. I really appreciate all of the help your giving me. I called some local insulators today and no-one had any of the owens corning, except one place told me the place they buy it from, so I'll be buying some shortly. Now last question fitZ and I'll leave you alone! Can I just wrap the 703 in fabric and not use plywood? and what should I use for spacers from the wall? on realtraps.com they used like a roll of tape it looked like ... lol

Thank you for all of your help fitZ.
 
the plywood looks nice but makes them a lot heavier. I would avoid the plywood if the panels are going on the wall. in order to use them as gobos or to hang on mic stands, you are probably going to need plywood. to hang from the ceiling, I would definitely avoid the plywood. you might need to use plywood to space them out from the wall; not sure how you're going to do that but if you search google you might find some pics. some people will put a strip along the wall horizontally and nail them in there.
 
The Engineer said:
I've noticed you've been leaving alot of feedback on these types of questions, I can only imagine your getting sick of it. I really appreciate all of the help your giving me. I called some local insulators today and no-one had any of the owens corning, except one place told me the place they buy it from, so I'll be buying some shortly. Now last question fitZ and I'll leave you alone! Can I just wrap the 703 in fabric and not use plywood? and what should I use for spacers from the wall? on realtraps.com they used like a roll of tape it looked like ... lol

Thank you for all of your help fitZ.
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You can wrap the fiberglass by itself or make a frame so you get crisper edges. But you don't have to put anything across the back. having the 703 a little off from the wall can be done any of a number of ways but the reason why it works better is that sound bounces off the wall or gets around the side and then gets absorbed again by the back surface. So you don't want to hide the back surface behind plywood (Membrane bass traps are a different matter, I'm talking about basic DIY broadband absorbers).
 
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